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oooogie

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Dec 17, 2017
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Tempe AZ
Has anybody done this and if so, how'd you do it.
I don't use the trem and could use the cavity for circuit board and battery if needed.
I also own a Fishman Powerblend pedal that would cover the preamp/circuit board.
So a TRS output jack and cable into the pedal and then magnetics out to amp (tip) piezo out to amp/DI/FOH(ring).
Doesn't look like the drop in bridge is an option without drilling. So probably piezo saddles will be my only option.
So really I'm looking for any guidance from anyone who may have done this mod.
Also I guess it doesn't matter what model guitar you did it on. I should be able to adapt.
I put up a neck swap post yesterday but if I could mod my cutlass I wouldn't need to mod my Hunter Hayes model too. thanks everybody.
 

beej

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Years ago I installed a Graph Tech Ghost system in my Morse model. Replaced the bridge and added in the Ghost preamp in the cavity. I had it wired to an active/passive switch (so I could bypass the preamp i/c the battery died) and out to a TRS jack.

It was ok, but I think a piezo is always a compromise on tone. Ended up pulling it out after a few years. Fun project though.

It's a little trickier with the newer MM models as they have an onboard preamp already. So you'd have to get creative with your wiring, and there's less space in the cavity.
 

oooogie

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Dec 17, 2017
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Location
Tempe AZ
Hey thanks Beej. I think my plan is to simply replace the saddles on the EBMM bridge. Wire them direct to a stereo output jack and the use the Fishman Powerblend pedal to handle all of the electronics. Here's a link to the pedal. Using a TRS cable I can split to signal through the pedal. A pass through for the magnetics and a mono out for the piezo that can either go to a seperate amp or straight to FOH. The pedal had 3 band EQ and acts as a volume pedal for the piezo signal so toe down full piezo volume. Heal down none. I agree that the piezo is not very good through a guitar amp but run to an acoustic amp or FOH gives you a much fuller range and a much more presentable acoustic tone. I have the Hunter Hayes model currently but I honestly prefer the Cutlass. But I love my acoustic option. Thanks for your reply. You mentioned that you replaced the bridge. Was the replacement drop in? All of the piezo bridges I've looked at would require drilling new post holes because the trem bridge on the Cutlass posts are farther apart than say a Strat bridge. And all of the replacement bridges have been Strat bridge replacement. Anyway thanks again for the reply and I'll let you all know how it comes out. If it comes out. FISHMAN POWERBLEND MANUAL Pdf Download | ManualsLib
 
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beej

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The Morse bridge was easier to replace- it uses a standard Tune-o-matic style bridge. So I just found one that fit the existing posts.

Your approach seems pretty straight-forward. If you're going to use the Fishman pedal (or any other off-board preamp/mixer ... you could make one pretty easily too), then it should be an easy go, provided the new saddles fit.

The only hitch is the output jack. I'm guessing it already has a TRS jack to facilitate turning the battery on/off when a plug is plugged in. If you rewire that for mags + piezo, you'll need to think through how you want to disconnect the battery - either with a switched TRS jack (provided there's room to put one in), or a toggle/push-pull/etc.
 

oooogie

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Dec 17, 2017
Messages
41
Location
Tempe AZ
Having now looked at the wiring diagram for the Cutlass, I've decided that this would be too much of a cluster***k for me to under take. So this afternoon I swapped the necks on this Cutlass and my Hunter Hayes model and I really like the HH with the Cutlass roseboard neck. So next step now will be to strip the satin finish and refinish with the gunstock oil and wax and I'll be all set.
 
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