- Thread starter kamakazee
- Start date
In regards to the Sansamp Bass Driver, I've seen alot of different videos of it, and it sounds drastically different in all of them. Does this means it does the mild drive and the harder distortion?
Too bad there wasn't an EBMM pedal... I'd have the whole set hehe
Too bad there wasn't an EBMM pedal... I'd have the whole set hehe
rhythmCity944
Well-known member
I actually love my Ibanex TS9/DX Tubescreamer that Analog Man did a silver mod on...it has a very transparent sound...I use it a lot with my country band. I used to have a sound clip of my SR4 using it but have since lost it...
oli@bass
Well-known member
Yes. The SansAmps are very versatile. However, they have their own "characteristic" overdrive/distortion sound which you cannot change. It's hard to describe: It's probably the pattern of harmonics and how it breaks up. You can't change that on a real amp or typical distortion pedal either. Except for the VT Series, which have the "Character" dial where you can obviously change that.
Smallmouth_Bass
Well-known member
So, would you say that's the main difference with the VT and the SansAmp BDDI?
Aussie Mark
Well-known member
The big difference between those two is that the BDDI emulates an SVT, while the VT has the versatility to cop an SVT as well as an old fliptop.
slave
Active member
Tone wise, the VT is better IMO, but it is close.
The vt mids being relatively flat compared to the BDDI mid-cut is the main difference. The BDDI can blend with your clean tone, something the VT can't do!
But to me the main difference is the ease of setting a tone - so much easier with the VT. Not difficult with the BDDI, just more fiddling with the treble/presence/bass to get it to sit right with the mids and in the overall mix.
If you like fuzz, you've got a world of options, but fuzz-face types/clones may not be the best choice for an active EBMM.
The vt mids being relatively flat compared to the BDDI mid-cut is the main difference. The BDDI can blend with your clean tone, something the VT can't do!
But to me the main difference is the ease of setting a tone - so much easier with the VT. Not difficult with the BDDI, just more fiddling with the treble/presence/bass to get it to sit right with the mids and in the overall mix.
If you like fuzz, you've got a world of options, but fuzz-face types/clones may not be the best choice for an active EBMM.
oli@bass
Well-known member
In addition to what I've said before about SansAmp and MXR, the Fulltone Bass-Drive Mosfet is a great unit well worth trying out.
Got one last weekend and think it sounds phantastic. Does not suck mids, keeps the character of the bass, stays defined even when playing chords and I was able to dial in a very nice "Sheehanesque" wooden growl. The only drawback I observed so far is that the drive knob offers too little control in the low range, especially for active basses. Maybe I should try to power the pedal with 18V instead of 9V.
EDIT: I just realised that the reason for the lack of control on the lower side of the drive control was NOT bass related but due to the MF-101, which I had in the chain before the Fulltone Bass-Drive Mosfet, adding considerable amounts of gain even in the "bypass" position. With the StingRay directly plugged into the Bass-Drive, the unit now delivers very subtle distortion at low drive setings.
Got one last weekend and think it sounds phantastic. Does not suck mids, keeps the character of the bass, stays defined even when playing chords and I was able to dial in a very nice "Sheehanesque" wooden growl. The only drawback I observed so far is that the drive knob offers too little control in the low range, especially for active basses. Maybe I should try to power the pedal with 18V instead of 9V.
EDIT: I just realised that the reason for the lack of control on the lower side of the drive control was NOT bass related but due to the MF-101, which I had in the chain before the Fulltone Bass-Drive Mosfet, adding considerable amounts of gain even in the "bypass" position. With the StingRay directly plugged into the Bass-Drive, the unit now delivers very subtle distortion at low drive setings.
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Powman
Well-known member
Big Muff Pi is working for me, although I like it better with the Sterling H than the Bongo HH. If I do use the Bongo then I use the bridge pickup only. The other thing I like about the Bass Big Muff Pi is the "dry" setting. When used in this manner, the level knob adds some distortion blended in with the undistorted dry sound. So you can add some dirt but still have the nice clean signal as well.
Kinda like a poor mans way of doing what Chris Wostenholme from Muse does. He splits his bass into two signals and two amps. One is always clean and the second has the effects.
Kinda like a poor mans way of doing what Chris Wostenholme from Muse does. He splits his bass into two signals and two amps. One is always clean and the second has the effects.
stoneboy26
Well-known member
I use an EBS Multidrive and a HBE Hematoma. My Bongo is too hot for the Hematoma and I get some crazy feedback.
Multidrive can go from smooth OD to full on OD/Distortion.
Hematoma is more getting towards a fuzz with lots of low end!
Multidrive can go from smooth OD to full on OD/Distortion.
Hematoma is more getting towards a fuzz with lots of low end!
cellkirk74
Well-known member
I got very nice results with the Sansamp bddi and the Big Al in passive mode. For real distorted or fuzzy stuff I use an black russian Big Muff with a looper pedal so I can mix it with the dry signal.
slave
Active member
I have an input over-saturation problem with my stinger and my Supercollider - but running the fuzz at 12v instead of 9v gives me all the headroom I need.
Stingray tone and muff variants do sound goooooooooooddd.
