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Battery power LED would be nice

Here's my solution: DC is already present in your amp, so build an amplifier with phantom power, the way mixers and mic amps are made. Use one cable between the bass and amp that transfers signal to the bass and power to the amp. See, if you give it some thought, there's always a simple and logical way to fix a problem. :D
 
Here's my solution: DC is already present in your amp, so build an amplifier with phantom power, the way mixers and mic amps are made. Use one cable between the bass and amp that transfers signal to the bass and power to the amp. See, if you give it some thought, there's always a simple and logical way to fix a problem. :D

The amp you are looking for is an EBS, problem solved.

On the battery issue, I've never ever had a battery die on me, long before that could happen the bass starts sounding less than stellar, and then I put a new couple batteries in.
 
A standard for 9V phantom power by jack would actually be pretty cool. But let ISO figure it out first, before anyone starts actually making them. So that everyone can make everything opposite of the standard. Then they'll all be compatible. :D

Edit to add: That EBS stuff seems pretty cool, even if there's no standard for it to break.
 
very good point, infact I have an EBS HD350 and I have never used phantom power!
 
I knew it couldn't be original. I'd just like to know if I could retrofit it to my Mesa/Boogie Walkabout....

You can make a box to place on top of the amp, with a jack in, a jack out, some condensers for a DC filter, and a 9V power source. Or if you want to skip the condensers, use a 9V battery for a combined filter/power source, that'll also save you a wall wart ... Oops, did I just move the "problem" (the battery) to the other end of the cord? ;)
 
If I can leave my tongue on it for more than 5 seconds, the battery goes in the trash.

The wussy-man i am, I can't bring myself to do the tongue-test at all - let alone hanging-on for 5 seconds!


what is your cutoff for good/bad voltage levels?

I use a battery tester - fresh batteries go in @ 9.5v~9.6v. When we get below 9.0v I swap 'em out.
 
You can make a box to place on top of the amp, with a jack in, a jack out, some condensers for a DC filter, and a 9V power source. Or if you want to skip the condensers, use a 9V battery for a combined filter/power source, that'll also save you a wall wart ... Oops, did I just move the "problem" (the battery) to the other end of the cord? ;)

Ha ha -- I think so.
 
Strange, the Batt-O-Meter did not work with any of my EBMMs. It did, however, work with other brands. I inquired about this with the seller, and he said that it did NOT indeed work with EBMMs. Do they have a new model out?

I'd like to know as well. The Batt-O-Meter works on all the instruments I have except the instrument I play most often, my Stingray.
 
Ahh... just found this regarding battery voltages. Looks like 8.4 v is the cutoff for being "good", and rechargeable aren't a good idea.

Q: How long does the battery last, and how do you know when it needs to be replaced?

A: Average battery life is 6 months. We recommend Duracell batteries as replacements mostly due to size inconsistencies between battery manufacturers. Do not leave your bass plugged in when you have finished playing, as this will drain your battery faster. Battery life of course depends on how often and how long you play. When the sound of your bass becomes distorted, it's ready for a new battery.


Q: Can I use rechargeable 9-volt batteries for my Music Man bass?

A: We do not recommend rechargeable batteries for replacement in Music Man instruments for 2 reasons: 1. They do not put out enough voltage (at least 8.4 volts) to properly run the instruments. NiCad and NiMh "9-volt" batteries, even when fully charged, put out a maximum of 7.2 volts. 2. Even if they did work, rechargeable batteries only hold a charge for 1-3 months. Alkaline batteries, when fresh, can go 6 months or longer. We recommend Duracell for a good fit.
 
Really?
I've gone longer than 6 months and I know my Stingray is a lot easier on batteries than other active basses.
Those folks are OK with a simple change out, let's show them how tough we are too.
Why risk harming the pre with some half baked outboard power supply?
If 6+ months is too often for a change out, route out the back and add a second battery in series.
 
If 6+ months is too often for a change out, route out the back and add a second battery in series.
that would be a good way to blow up the preamp. If you wire them in series, you'd get 18V. You want to wire them in parallel. Same voltage, but double the capacity.
 
`

I use lithium batteries cuz

1. I have numerous basses, and lithiums have fantastic shelf life including idle times inside the bass.

2. Lithiums do not leak and corrode stuff, again a very valuable trait for 'one player, many basses'.

3. A basic lithium CELL [a BATTERY is multiple cells] is 3v so lithium 9v are a FULL 9v, and tend to
remain near 9v until their demise.

4. They outlast any other reasonably accessible type of battery.


`
 
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that would be a good way to blow up the preamp. If you wire them in series, you'd get 18V. You want to wire them in parallel. Same voltage, but double the capacity.

Ooops; thanks for the correction; slept through that post
Of course, it would be a crime to do this
 
We recommend Duracell for a good fit.

Yeah, that's correct, ...I had some experiments with a few other brands, but non of them fits right except Duracell, or to short to have no contact at all, or too huge and couldn't be mounted at all! :confused:

Only one other brand is acceptable and I use it right now in my reflex bass, ...Varta Alkaline (Made in Germany)!!! Fit perfect, like Duracell and last long too! ;)

Btw., ...European Duracells are Made in Belgium and they are the same size like USA ones! :)
 
Oddly, Duracells do not fit my 09 3-band Stingray. I use Energizers, changing them only when the clocks change and have had no problems. Just wondering if anyone else has had problems with Duracells fitting.
 
I just read that the battery-o-meter also runs on 9V blocks.
So you'd need a tester to test that :-)

Backt to topic: I always have a spare battery with me; and with EBMM basses it's fast and easy to swap batteries.
To me, an LED would only make sense if it lit up only when the battery falls below a certain (minimum) level.
You don't really want an LED being lit up all the time you play, do you?
 
..........

To me, an LED would only make sense if it lit up only when
the battery falls below a certain (minimum) level. You don't
really want an LED being lit up all the time you play, do you?

The LED is lit all the time when I play my LightWave. It's
kinda comforting ... since it goes out when there's about
20 minutes of play time left in the battery.
 
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