- Thread starter mikeyg
- Start date
rrhea
Well-known member
Not sure how the strings could be blocking the alan holes. They are located on either side of the string (two per saddle).
If your neck is already fairly straight, then you'll need to lower the saddles.
RR
If your neck is already fairly straight, then you'll need to lower the saddles.
RR
Norrin Radd
Well-known member
As has been said - the holes to adjust are the ones on the outside of the strings - look at this picture to get an idea:
Good luck!
Good luck!
In the f.a.q., is says to use the truss rod to lower the action:
The best and easiest way to adjust your action is to use the truss rod. To lower your action, turn the wheel clockwise. To raise your action, particularly if you have fret buzz, turn the wheel counter clockwise. It is always a good idea to make just one or two turns at a time, then play it and see if it needs more adjustment. It normally doesn't take many turns of the wheel to notice a difference.
Should I do this or adjust the saddle like has been mentioned?
The best and easiest way to adjust your action is to use the truss rod. To lower your action, turn the wheel clockwise. To raise your action, particularly if you have fret buzz, turn the wheel counter clockwise. It is always a good idea to make just one or two turns at a time, then play it and see if it needs more adjustment. It normally doesn't take many turns of the wheel to notice a difference.
Should I do this or adjust the saddle like has been mentioned?
Norrin Radd
Well-known member
mikeyg said:
Well, adjusting the truss rod is really for taking out or putting more curve/bow into the neck, and if your neck needs adjustment, doing this MAY improve your action. What you should do is first adjust the neck with truss rod (to where you like it - if you like lowest possible action I suggest getting the necke almost flat - but make sure there is some relief in it. THEN, you can fine tune with the saddle screws to your liking. My two cents.
SteveB
Well-known member
Mikeyg,
As has been mentioned.. how to lower your action really depends on what's causing the action to be high in the first place.
Is the action high everywhere, or is it more pronounced in the upper, middle, or lower frets?
If there's noticable 'bow' in your neck, you may get better action by just turning the truss rod a little to flatten the neck, like Norrin said. I just did this on my Y2D the other night, as there was too much bow and the action was a little high for my taste. A full turn of the truss rod and the action improved notably. I gave it an additional 1/4 turn and it was perfect.
Other things that can be done to change the action include: lowering the bridge (probably not necessary on the Pet), lowering the saddles, and possibly shimming the neck.. although that's usually a last resort for specific situations.
As has been mentioned.. how to lower your action really depends on what's causing the action to be high in the first place.
Is the action high everywhere, or is it more pronounced in the upper, middle, or lower frets?
If there's noticable 'bow' in your neck, you may get better action by just turning the truss rod a little to flatten the neck, like Norrin said. I just did this on my Y2D the other night, as there was too much bow and the action was a little high for my taste. A full turn of the truss rod and the action improved notably. I gave it an additional 1/4 turn and it was perfect.
Other things that can be done to change the action include: lowering the bridge (probably not necessary on the Pet), lowering the saddles, and possibly shimming the neck.. although that's usually a last resort for specific situations.
