Breaking too many strings on my Axis

[Snake]

I'm breaking strings on my EBMM Axis more than I should be. They seem to break right at the bridge. Typically the B and A strings are the culprits, but others break as well. I can't go a week without breaking 1 or 2 strings. In comparison, I can keep a set of 9's on my Jackson solist for a month (with heavy bar usage) without any breakage.

I've checked the bridge for burs. Everything looks good. It's a pretty new Axis, so I didn't expect to see any burs or other anomolies. I was thinking of taking some fine sandpaper or emory cloth to the saddles, but that's going to hose up the chrome, and since I can't see any burs I don't know how that would help.

I'm out of ideas. Anyone want to take a shot at this one?

 

[Jimi D]

Burrs on the saddle would be my first guess too, but if that's not it maybe your strings are breaking at the edge of the bridge plate where the string exits the body and bends to meet the saddle - is your intonation good? Anyway, if you could get a little piece of rubber tubing that could cover the string from the ball to a point somewhere past where the string comes through the bridge (like SIT strings used to have) you might see if that's the culprit...

If that doesn't work, I'd try to switch string brands - maybe there's a manufacturing weakness at that particular bend length in the strings you usually buy? Or maybe you got a batch from a bad wind?

 

[jongitarz]

And don't over tighten!!

 

[Snake]

I'm using Super Slinkys, and I'd rather fight than switch.

Intonation is great......once set up, better than most guitars I've owned.

The strings are breaking right where they leave the saddle (on the neck side). Perhaps it's just the design of the bridge. It's my first EBMM Floyd, and perhaps it simply won't work like a Jackson Floyd (dodges beer bottles thrown by angry Forum members).

 

[nobozos]

How do you install your strings?

Do you leave the ball end at the tuner, or do you clip the ball off and load that end into the Floyd?

It does make a difference.

You should clip the ball off, and load that end into your Floyd, then run the non-ball end into the tuner.

 

[Snake]

Really??

I have been loading the ball end up on the tuning pegs because it is so much easier that way. How can there be a difference???

 

[Norrin Radd]

Really??

I have been loading the ball end up on the tuning pegs because it is so much easier that way. How can there be a difference???

I don't know why there is a difference, but I had a similar problem to you on my axis. I switched to the way suggested above (clip off the ball ends, insert into saddle) and I have yet to break a string in about 3 years.

Do you have to know why as long as it works?

 

[nobozos]

I can't verify this for sure, but I have been told that the string actually gets smaller toward the pointy end. I could see it on the wound strings maybe, but it sounds kind of fishy to me on the solid strings.

I don't know if that is true, but I do know that once I started stringing my guitar the right way, it seemed to improve the tone to some degree, and I haven't broken any strings.

Maybe one of the mods can get with the string people at Ernie Ball and give us the straight story on why.

 

[Jimi D]

Oh, real useful advice Jimi... Axis... Axis Sport... DUH!

 

[Norrin Radd]

Oh, real useful advice Jimi... Axis... Axis Sport... DUH!

Don't worry Jimi, if you were perfect, you'd own EBMM instead of moderating it's forum!

 

[m4a3]

I'm using Super Slinkys, and I'd rather fight than switch.

Intonation is great......once set up, better than most guitars I've owned.

The strings are breaking right where they leave the saddle (on the neck side). Perhaps it's just the design of the bridge. It's my first EBMM Floyd, and perhaps it simply won't work like a Jackson Floyd (dodges beer bottles thrown by angry Forum members).

I'd second the saddle problems. My EVH's Floyd has 'em bad, and I break a string once every 2-3 days - always where the string leaves the saddle. Doesn't matter how old the strings are. Bend....Pop.

And I really can't see anything there, either. I think the grooves in the saddles just get deeper with time, and the edges of those grooves become sharper.

 

[tommyindelaware]

the spot where the string crosses and leaves the bridge acts like a saw on all guitars .
if you carefully sand , polish , and lube that spot......it greatly reduces the saws ability to cut the string......& prolongs the strings life.

 

[blackspy]

the spot where the string crosses and leaves the bridge acts like a saw on all guitars .
if you carefully sand , polish , and lube that spot......it greatly reduces the saws ability to cut the string......& prolongs the strings life.

Exactly what he said. After the sanding, soak it in Slick 50 for a while before putting it back on. That stuff is incredible for lubing guitar parts. It stays lubed for years.

 

[Snake]

Thanks for all of the good advice guys. I'm going to restring (the correct way) tomorrow for a gig tomorrow night. I'll let you know how it all works out.

 

[m4a3]

the spot where the string crosses and leaves the bridge acts like a saw on all guitars .
if you carefully sand , polish , and lube that spot......it greatly reduces the saws ability to cut the string......& prolongs the strings life.

I assume you use a fine paper to sand the saddles, but what do you use for polish?

 

[tommyindelaware]

I assume you use a fine paper to sand the saddles, but what do you use for polish?

i use paper starting w 400 grit..... then 600....... then 1000....then 1500. just like dressing frets.
also sand in sideways direction only......not the direction the string points.
1500 is effectively polishing it. buffing it w/ a dremmel cotton buffer would make it perfect....
i think nut sauce works the best for lubing....cause it stays where you put it longer. it also is very neat & not messy at all.