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wavesurfer

Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2006
Messages
5
Hi everyone. I just recieved my new Stingray 4 last week and it had been sitting in this particular shop for a few years. It came from W. Viriginia and I live in S. Florida so I'm wondering if the relief had changed.
The guy said they were setting it up before sending it and I'm not sure if the relief is correct or if I need to lower the action.

I have taken the some advise from Gary Willis' site which is this:

1) Hold down the A string at 1st fret with finger
2) Hold down all the strings with my elbow/back of arm just past end of fretboard
3) Tap down on 12th fret A string and measure distance from bottom of string to board

The distance at the 12th fret A string is about the thickness of 2 credit cards. What is the recommended gap/space for a Stingray 4 to assure the proper relief?

I do own a gauge (forget the name of it) which has various sizes that machinists use for measuring thicknesses. Is there a specific number I should go by?

Thanks!
Shawn
 

drgroovenstein

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 9, 2006
Messages
358
Location
Frederick, MD
Its easier than that, and because of this forum I have given up my old ways of measuring everything down to .000000001" heheh.

Check it out, just hold down the string (B or E) at the first and 12th fret. At the 12th Fret us the thumb of your plucking hand. Now with your index finger push the string down at the half-way point, 7th?? I think, bass not in hand, so that is a guess. I think the actual procedure is in the faq.

Anyway, I just put enough relief in to eliminate the buzz at the 1st through 3rd frets. This equates to a SMALL >< amount of relief, like barely noticable. If I measure, it's probably be in the neighborhood of .010 or slightly less.

The tool you are talking about is a feeler guage, it is your friend if you are indeed anal (like me!)

BTW, nice name, but you spell it wrong :D

Regards,
Sean
 
Last edited:

Figjam

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Jan 19, 2005
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2,331
Location
Poughkeepsie, NY
Im not sure you are supposed to hold it down at the 12th, I've been told you should hold it down where the neck meets the body, around the 17th.
 

phatduckk

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Jul 25, 2004
Messages
8,145
Location
San Mateo, California, United States
http://www.ernieball.com/faq_content.php?subjectcode=mm_basses

the recommended string height etc isnt gonna be perfect for everyone. id recommend you get it to factory specs, play it for a day or so, see how u like it and tweak as needed.

patience is a virtue here. ill tweak stuff, play it for a couple hours, then make a tiny adjustment etc ... in a day or 2 it gets to where i love it. since im no pro it takes me a bit of fiddling about but i always get stuff to where i like it
 

wavesurfer

Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2006
Messages
5
Ok. I have searched and used the sources given above, but there has been contradicting answers.

Which way will give me less forward bow? Turn the truss dial toward the G string or away?

Thanks,
Shawn
 

Bill

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Joined
Sep 4, 2005
Messages
2,317
Location
Denham Springs, LA
If you're looking toward the headstock, turn the truss rod wheel clockwise to tighten the rod (straighten the neck). Turn it counterclockwise to loosen the rod (give the neck more relief). Hope that helps!
 

jongitarz

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Sep 15, 2003
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Here
Like my good friend Mr Duckk said, don't pay too much attention on measurements at first. Adjust and tweak until it feels right for you. After you get it dialed in, then take measurements and write them down for future setups.
 

58super

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Mar 20, 2006
Messages
532
Location
Mississauga, Ontario
jongitarz said:
Like my good friend Mr Duckk said, don't pay too much attention on measurements at first. Adjust and tweak until it feels right for you. After you get it dialed in, then take measurements and write them down for future setups.

Jon,

Why doesn't MM provide a manual with spec's for the factory adjustment?

I know they are in the FAQ but it would be useful for a one page summary for all the MM instruments. It would be handy and cover the people who don't have access to the 'net.
 
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