How should I change the strings on my luke?
- Thread starter luke
- Start date
John C
Well-known member
luke - first off, welcome! Do you have an original Luke with the Floyd Rose bridge or the the current model with locking tuners and a vintage-style trem?
While I don't have a Luke, I have a Silhouette Special which has the same bridge and tuners as the current model Luke (although the bridge isn't set to float), and I would suggest changing the strings one-at-a-time. When I've had other guitars with floating bridges I find something to keep the bridge in the position it has with all 6 strings - even a piece of folded-up printer paper will do. Then I change them one at a time to keep the bridge from moving too much (that is the nice thing about a non-floating trem - you don't have to worry about the bridge moving as it rests on the face of the guitar).
With the locking tuners, I drop the pitch on the string first then loosen the knob on the back of the tuner. De-tuning keeps the string from snapping out of the tuner. Turn the tuner so the hole lines up straight from the bridge, pull the string through so there isn't any slack and tighten the knob on the back of the tuner. Tune roughly to pitch and repeat for the other strings. With the locking tuners you don't want any wraps around the post. I like to change all the strings before I start stretching and retuning them until stable, but that's just me.
While I don't have a Luke, I have a Silhouette Special which has the same bridge and tuners as the current model Luke (although the bridge isn't set to float), and I would suggest changing the strings one-at-a-time. When I've had other guitars with floating bridges I find something to keep the bridge in the position it has with all 6 strings - even a piece of folded-up printer paper will do. Then I change them one at a time to keep the bridge from moving too much (that is the nice thing about a non-floating trem - you don't have to worry about the bridge moving as it rests on the face of the guitar).
With the locking tuners, I drop the pitch on the string first then loosen the knob on the back of the tuner. De-tuning keeps the string from snapping out of the tuner. Turn the tuner so the hole lines up straight from the bridge, pull the string through so there isn't any slack and tighten the knob on the back of the tuner. Tune roughly to pitch and repeat for the other strings. With the locking tuners you don't want any wraps around the post. I like to change all the strings before I start stretching and retuning them until stable, but that's just me.
Because you have the piezo bridge that doesn't float, you can take all the strings off if you want to. Either way will work.
John C is correct in that you don't want to wrap the strings around the post.. Just pull it through lock it down, and cut off the excess.
John C is correct in that you don't want to wrap the strings around the post.. Just pull it through lock it down, and cut off the excess.
John C
Well-known member
luke - that's what I get for not fully reading your signature before I post - I didn't notice that you had the piezo which doesn't float.
I hope you're enjoying your Luke as much as I enjoy my Silo Special!!
I hope you're enjoying your Luke as much as I enjoy my Silo Special!!
John C said:luke - that's what I get for not fully reading your signature before I post - I didn't notice that you had the piezo which doesn't float.
I hope you're enjoying your Luke as much as I enjoy my Silo Special!!
John - no problem. Thanks for your posting.
I love my luke
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