Question How to PROPERLY Set Up the JP6 Models for Alternate Tunings

[Music Man Dan]

I have noticed that John Petrucci has used his 25.5" scale length (non-baritone) 6-string signature Music Man models with the following tunings:

Standard: EADGBE
Drop D: DADGBE
Standard, 1/2 Step Down: D#G#C#F#A#D#
Standard, 1 Step Down: DGCFAD
Standard, 2 Steps Down: CFA#D#GC

Now, I've always been told that in order to maintain equivalent string tension when using lower tunings, the rule of thumb is to increase the string gauge by one size for every half step. Seeing as how all of the JP6 models, with the exception of the new JP13, come with 10p-13p-17p-26w-36w-46w from the factory, setup for standard tuning, if I wanted to set the guitar up for Standard, 1 Step Down tuning, would I just need to replace the stock string sizes with a set of 12p-15p-19p-30w-40w-50w, or would I also need to file the nut and make adjustments to the truss rod, the bridge height, and the tremolo springs?

As a little side note, with the exception of Standard, 1-1/2 Steps Down (C#F#BEG#C#) tuning, Petrucci has used his standard 6-string models with standard tunings that descend from E to C, then the 7-string models in standard tuning, which give him the low B, then finally with the baritone signature models and the Silhouette Bass model, he's used Standard, 3 Steps Down and 3-1/2 Steps Down to A# and A, respectively. I wonder why he's never done anything with 1-1/2 Steps Down (C#) tuning? Weird.

 

[DrKev]

Any gauge from 11s and up may need the nut slots worked to accommodate the wider strings without them binding (which could cause tuning stability issues). Bring it to a tech for that if necessary.

Now, I've always been told that in order to maintain equivalent string tension when using lower tunings, the rule of thumb is to increase the string gauge by one size for every half step.

Rule of thumb, yes. If the string tension is identical, then everything will be the same as before and very little will need to be done at all. The string tension may not be exactly the same, so a little setup work may still be required.

In principle, the bridge height and saddles shouldn't change so the only things that might differ will be bridge angle and neck relief. You may need to adjust the trem springs (to get the bridge parallel to the top when tuned up). Then, if necessary adjust the truss rod (tighten if action is higher than before, loosen if it's lower).

Of course, different gauge strings, even at the same tension may vibrate differently and produce buzzing you didn't have before so remember the basic rules of thumb in this order: string buzz on highest frets - raise the saddles. String buzz on lowest frets - loosen the truss rod.

Finish by checking intonation.

And remember, when doing a setup, we can get hypersensitive to noises and buzzes that won't bother us when we play and may never have noticed before. Be aware of that tendency and don't chase perfection or you'll drive yourself crazy.

 

[koogie2k]

Good advice DrKev. I am a bit different though. I use 10's for all my tunings. My one band we were in drop C and I used 10's. Adjusted the trem, neck, and check the intonation and viola - I was good to go. Never had a tuning issue or "buzz" and I keep my action stupid low.