I need to vent: blown driver...

[lomky]

that's awesome!!

So the diaphram or cone became seperated from the spider. And the voice coil is not moving freely in the top plate and pole piece.

OK here's another stupid question. My SWR SM-400s has two inputs high gain and low gain. Which one should I be using w/ my passive SUB4?

Also when I was talking to the local tech guy, he said that typically if an amp is overpowering the cab, all the speakers will go and not just one, expecially if they are in parallel. Thoughts?

Really sorry about all the stupid questions, and I REALLY appreciate all the info!!

 

[tkarter]

I could ship you a blown 10 out of my 2x10 cab Tom.

Clipping did that cuz dummy tk didn't have the button on the Peavey in the right position.

And the bongo just loves doing things like that



tk

 

[MingusBASS]

It won't be long before I'll be replacing another 12" driver in my Bergantino HT322. My basses really abuse that speaker. The 10's have always been fine handling whatever I throw at them. Oh well. Darn Bongos and their low end!

That's interesting, I've had both of my Bergantinos for more than a year now and my 1x12" seems to be working perfectly. Are sure that the Bongo is the problem? Just curious, 'cause I use my bongos with my bergantino cabs and hope I don't have to replace my 1x12" driver anytime soon.

 

[maddog]

Bongo Smash.

Would be fun to dissect the driver Tom. I'll cover shipping if you want.

Lomky, if the cone has seperated from the spider, it won't stay centered and work correctly. You may only need a recone. Although, it should still be working and you should hear a scraping sound. Best bet is a whole new driver.

 

[lomky]

How about this, when talking to some local shops, I'm getting the word that non-cast baskets are not to be re-coned. I think I'm just going to wait until I get a price for a new driver.

 

[tkarter]

Cool Tom pm me shipping addy.

Let me state for the record THIS is not a BONGO problem. Nor will the Bongo ever be the problem.


bongo player problem is what blew my driver.

tk

 

[tkarter]

Lomky email the addy I sent you they will get you fixed right up.

tk

 

[lomky]

Hey TK, I sent a message to them, and they replies (quickly) with the address [email protected] still waiting for a reply, and I also have the local companies looking for me to shop prices.

Thanks

 

[tadawson]

This may be as simple as a bad glue job in the driver in the first place. If the spider separates, then the voice coil will rub on the pole piece, and destroy itself. This sounds like purely a mechanical failure - either overexcursion tore something loose, or the initial assembly glue work was not what it should have been.

Oh, and RE power, "Program power", "Peak power", "Music Power" etc. are all pretty much the same thing, and are BS ways to give an amp a higher number than it deserves. RMS power output is pretty much the only standard for comparison that means anything. What is peak power anyhow? "We can generate 27gigawatts for 1/1000th of a nano second . . . " - so what? If it isn't sustainable, then it probably isn't noticeable or usable . . . . . and if the power supply on the amp isn't underrated, the two should be almost (if not exactly) the same . . . . .

- Tim

 

[Musicman Nut]

It really does suck when your rig lets you down. (hehehhehhe) I think that after fifty years of amplified music that you should not need to be an engineer to hook it up and the speakers should be able to handle the rated power.......

well One thing my dad taught me and it still applies today, He was and is a Bass Player also at 79 still plays 3 nights aweek, But anyway, I used to ask him Dad why do you carry that Heavy Amp around all the time. He replies, son if you never want to blow your speakers up always have around 2000 watts of clean Power and you'll be amazed.

well it has worked for me too, at my 35th year of playing both Country & Rock Bands I have yet to blow a Speaker, I always have used EV, JBL and now this New 500 Watt Neo with always at least 1000 watts too push them. CLEANNNNNNNN Power

PS: Neos don't quite have the Balls the EV or JBL had but 6 pounds a speaker is a bit better to carry.

Hey Dad at 79 I bet your not carrying that 1969 SVT to any of your gigs anymore, lol

 

[barkatozz]

I blew the 15inch driver in my practice rig the other week. It's a Peavey cab with one of those Scorpion speakers w/ the aluminum cage. Anyhow I got a replacement cage for $65....you can unbolt the magnet from the cage & put in the new one. Was kinda different. I will say the old one showed no signs of wear......just stopped working.

 

[tkarter]

The smart guys have weighed in so I will shut up. on cabs verses power that is.

tk

 

[NoFrets80]

SWR protection

It probably was clipping that caused it as your amp doesn't have any overhead to deal with that cab. ( how's that for a lousy explanation?)

Does the SWR have some kind of protection against that?


tk

most, if not all SWRs have a built-in limiter so that it keeps the output within a safe range... when you start getting the "preamp clip" light, that's when to take note. i've found that having an outboard compressor has been a huge help in keeping my volume in check, and i can get a more even, solid sound without pumping it as much, both with my upright an electrics. something to think about for the next go-around maybe? i don't relish the thought of reconing my speakers, but it will need it at some point in my old SWR rig... after 7-8 years of solid gigging, it's bound to go at some point.

 

[NoFrets80]

that's awesome!!

So the diaphram or cone became seperated from the spider. And the voice coil is not moving freely in the top plate and pole piece.

OK here's another stupid question. My SWR SM-400s has two inputs high gain and low gain. Which one should I be using w/ my passive SUB4?

Also when I was talking to the local tech guy, he said that typically if an amp is overpowering the cab, all the speakers will go and not just one, expecially if they are in parallel. Thoughts?

Really sorry about all the stupid questions, and I REALLY appreciate all the info!!

For your passive SUB, the "passive/active" input, which gives you higher gain from the get-go, should work fine. The pickup is pretty hot to begin with, so it will sound fine. Most any active bass should go in the "active" input to avoid clipping. I've found that my active SUB is much more likely to irk the limiter than any other basses I've owned before, even my old F*nder Deluxe Jazz V, but that's a good thing... much more usable gain from the start!

 

[tkarter]

most, if not all SWRs have a built-in limiter so that it keeps the output within a safe range... when you start getting the "preamp clip" light, that's when to take note. i've found that having an outboard compressor has been a huge help in keeping my volume in check, and i can get a more even, solid sound without pumping it as much, both with my upright an electrics. something to think about for the next go-around maybe? i don't relish the thought of reconing my speakers, but it will need it at some point in my old SWR rig... after 7-8 years of solid gigging, it's bound to go at some point.

I will maintain a lousy explanation by me. I ruined mine over not enough amp and playing too loud without the built in limitations engaged.

I did that with a Peavey so this hillbilly learned the hard way. For this hillbilly.

What you are saying makes sense to me and is stored in my future reference to such situations.

Thanks.

tk