jamminjim
Well-known member
+1 very much appreciated and the video is great.
- Thread starter lumberjack
- Start date
+1 very much appreciated and the video is great.
MPM
Well-known member
Great video Drew, 1 question. What would you do different for a MM neck with a maple fingerboard? Thanks!
Rick Auricchio
Well-known member
It appears Drew was using the spray product, which is formulated differently from the original formula.
So using the original product full-strength is definitely not the same as using the spray full-strength.
I can find only the original in town, and I'll check tomorrow in another town. The original is typically diluted with water, but a 16oz bottle would last me a century.
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Dante
Well-known member
Hey Drew, how about inserting something like "X minutes later" in the video so we get an idea of how long it should sit?
that line was born in the seventies when followers of Cthulhu started ridding the world of people in platform shoes
(be sure to check wiki to know what Cthulhites are!)
that line was born in the seventies when followers of Cthulhu started ridding the world of people in platform shoes
(be sure to check wiki to know what Cthulhites are!)
Jack FFR1846
Well-known member
In my Sub transformation, I sanded off the finish on the neck, including going right up and onto the rosewood fingerboard side. The Tru-Oil took almost nothing, but coated the entire neck, sides, heel easily. After about an hour, it's dry and can be handled. I have not yet waxed it (still working on the poly coating on the headstock) but have found through asking at gun stores that the wax is quite similar to an automotive carnuba wax. Again...only a very small amount is needed. The Tru-oil is a sealer....I think of it as a clear paint the way it works. If it's not worn through, it doesn't need to be reapplied. If a part IS worn through, then use fine sandpaper (I used 320 then 600) to take the finish completely off and reapply the Tru-Oil.
jack
jack
Spudmurphy
Well-known member
^
mmm ok but in my experience and imo, leaving the oil on can prove to be a knightmare - when I left it for a while it went all gloopy and I ended having to sand the neck again. I bleeb the same thing happened with another knucklehead - I think it was CandidX. Now I just wipe it (the oil) on and straight off again , just like they do in the factory. I don't bother with the wax, although I have it, as I feel that just by using the oil, you get a "from the factory" finish.
When I used the wax it left a real sheen which wasn't like the factory appearance I have seen on new EB's. Just my 2p worth
mmm ok but in my experience and imo, leaving the oil on can prove to be a knightmare - when I left it for a while it went all gloopy and I ended having to sand the neck again. I bleeb the same thing happened with another knucklehead - I think it was CandidX. Now I just wipe it (the oil) on and straight off again , just like they do in the factory. I don't bother with the wax, although I have it, as I feel that just by using the oil, you get a "from the factory" finish.
When I used the wax it left a real sheen which wasn't like the factory appearance I have seen on new EB's. Just my 2p worth
candid_x
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The result from the the method of leaving the Tru Oil on until it hardens, then sanded down and reapplying etc, produces a very different result from the way that Spud talks about, which from everything I've read before, is the way it's done at MM SLO. The former way produces a heavy, deep, glossy and rich finished look and feel. The way Spud describes retains more of the actual wood feel of the neck. It just depends if you want the heavy or light treatment. I prefer the light and woody way. I don't use the wax either, like Spud. Nothing wrong with using it, I just prefer the feel without it.
Enter Wonder Wipes fretboard cleaner/conditioner. I've been pleasantly surprised at how well they work to clean and protect oil finished MM maple necks, as well as rosewood fretboards. Since using WW every other string change (as needed), further Tru Oil treatments have been purely optional. The Tru Oil is deeper penetrating and it hardens, and so it is more permanent than the WW, but when used fairly regularly, the WW offers great cleaning and protection, and most of all, what I like best, a natural feeling neck. Great stuff. It works way better than the culinary grade 100% pure lemon oil, I used to use, because most of that evaporated quickly, and it didn't clean as well either.
YMMV
Enter Wonder Wipes fretboard cleaner/conditioner. I've been pleasantly surprised at how well they work to clean and protect oil finished MM maple necks, as well as rosewood fretboards. Since using WW every other string change (as needed), further Tru Oil treatments have been purely optional. The Tru Oil is deeper penetrating and it hardens, and so it is more permanent than the WW, but when used fairly regularly, the WW offers great cleaning and protection, and most of all, what I like best, a natural feeling neck. Great stuff. It works way better than the culinary grade 100% pure lemon oil, I used to use, because most of that evaporated quickly, and it didn't clean as well either.
YMMV
Rick Auricchio
Well-known member
Regarding the Murphy's spray product, I bought it and used it. It works quite well right out of the spray bottle. It's certainly a different formula from the original, but it does the job. My bass necks weren't as dirty as the one in Drew's video.
I'm waiting for the tru-oil and gunstock wax to arrive; then I'll do a light sanding and treatment of the 'Ray.
I'm waiting for the tru-oil and gunstock wax to arrive; then I'll do a light sanding and treatment of the 'Ray.
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Craiguitar
Well-known member
Murphy's oil soap.....can't get it in the UK.
LOL It's probably illegal due to some stupid EU legislation (Which we have no control over)
Anyway, I get the idea, it's basically soap you can clean wood with. No biggie.
LOL It's probably illegal due to some stupid EU legislation (Which we have no control over
) Anyway, I get the idea, it's basically soap you can clean wood with. No biggie.
Spudmurphy
Well-known member
Murphy's oil soap.....can't get it in the UK.
LOL It's probably illegal due to some stupid EU legislation (Which we have no control over
Anyway, I get the idea, it's basically soap you can clean wood with. No biggie.
There doesn't appear to be an restrictions on it's import - if you search on E bay it is possible to get it imported - I really cannot understand why it's not stocked over here.
I have some rellies coming over from St Louis next week and I'm gonna send them an e mail now to ask them to bring some over.
Craiguitar
Well-known member
Spudmurphy
Well-known member
Cool, don't suppose there's room in their suitcases for one more bottle?
Just sent them the e mail.
Join the queue - I've had a few people ask me the same.
I hope to go to the states this year so could get some then.
Grand Wazoo
Well-known member
I've got mine from this seller he will ship worldwide including UK, here is the spray version but I purchased the 32oz bottle and I mix it myself 2pt water 1pt oil, works a treat.
Murphy Oil Soap Multiuse Wood Cleaner -MUR 01030 - eBay (item 270412159956 end time Jul-20-09 05:18:00 PDT)
Murphy Oil Soap Multiuse Wood Cleaner -MUR 01030 - eBay (item 270412159956 end time Jul-20-09 05:18:00 PDT)
Spudmurphy
Well-known member
Geez - that's £25 postage
Craiguitar
Well-known member
Thats what I found. Everywhere online (ebay or whatever) you can buy the stuff for next to nothing, but the postage is phenomenally high, thus killing the deal.
candid_x
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Imo, there's no harm in using a little dish detergent on a warm soapy wash cloth. I wouldn't drown the wood, but scrubbing the maple neck that way isn't going to harm anything, so long as it's thoroughly towel dried quickly after. Soap is soap. Murphy's is safer for wood, but I don't think it's required to a necessity.
I also disagree about not being able to effectively apply additional coats of Tru Oil, without having to sand down the entire neck. Tru Oil melds perfectly well with its old and worn coats. No blotches or irregularities that I've experienced, though I use it sparingly.. maybe that's why.
I also disagree about not being able to effectively apply additional coats of Tru Oil, without having to sand down the entire neck. Tru Oil melds perfectly well with its old and worn coats. No blotches or irregularities that I've experienced, though I use it sparingly.. maybe that's why.
Spudmurphy
Well-known member
Hi Rockstar - I think it might have been mentioned by Fsmith.
It's easy really - what he observed was the worker applied the Gunstock oil using a paper towel. In the time that it took to throw away the paper towel and tear off another piece, the oil was rubbed off with said second piece.
This process was repeated with the gun stock wax.
I use the same method myself, rather than letting the oil dry for 2 hours (which is what it says to do on the Birchwood Casey bottle of gun stock oil!!). I once let it sit for a while and it went all "gloopy".
So wipe on and wipe off the oil and same with the wax.
It's easy really - what he observed was the worker applied the Gunstock oil using a paper towel. In the time that it took to throw away the paper towel and tear off another piece, the oil was rubbed off with said second piece.
This process was repeated with the gun stock wax.
I use the same method myself, rather than letting the oil dry for 2 hours (which is what it says to do on the Birchwood Casey bottle of gun stock oil!!). I once let it sit for a while and it went all "gloopy".
So wipe on and wipe off the oil and same with the wax.
