- Thread starter RoboChrist
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silverburst
Well-known member
I just wasted a few minutes of my life reading that TB thread...
I can't even get trussrod adjustments to settle between home and getting to a gig.
slow roasted
Well-known member
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- Jan 15, 2008
- Messages
- 138
Well don´t feel too bad about it. I´ve missed all the others.
//Jan
Including another obscure one here that I thought maybe Jack or ? might pick up on....
Not sure if you are joking or not BUT just in case you are serious....Make smaller changes and WAIT at least 3 or 4 minutes at a minimum between the changes before doing anything else...I used to make bigger changes but have realized a little bit of movement on a truss rod goes a LONG way!
Peace,
T
MK Bass Weed
Well-known member
I decided to take the time I WOULD have spent reading the goofy thread, and practiced my whole tone scales instead. I just got a little better.
Love that neck.
Love that neck.
funkychicken
Member
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2009
- Messages
- 15
bradfordws
Well-known member
This topic again? Here's something I posted here on the "oil vs. Lacquer" thread:
Just my $.02 - I sprayed the backs of all my MM bases with a satin clear lacquer - carefully took neck off and taped off the fingerboards and the headstock, following the line where the finish stops = just personal preference. They feel great, don't get dirty AND are protected from weather or humidity. My first MM was a Stingray back in 1983 and as we know, the necks were always sprayed with the clear poly back then (which I used to take steel wool and knock down the gloss), so anyway, I just prefer the clear satin over the oil.
My point is - it's very easy to spray a clear satin lacquer on the back of the neck as described above. It takes maybe half a day tops - the most tedious part is the neck removal and taping off the fingerboard. Then again, I'm a rosewood fingerboard guy, so a maple fingerboard is a different story. I would imagine you'd have to spray the fingerboad and then steel wool the frets after the paint is dry. Somebody mentioned in another response something like if you don't like the oiled neck, then do something about it, which is my position on the situation. EB/MM is not going to change what they're doing because I bet most of the folks like the oiled neck.
Just my $.02 - I sprayed the backs of all my MM bases with a satin clear lacquer - carefully took neck off and taped off the fingerboards and the headstock, following the line where the finish stops = just personal preference. They feel great, don't get dirty AND are protected from weather or humidity. My first MM was a Stingray back in 1983 and as we know, the necks were always sprayed with the clear poly back then (which I used to take steel wool and knock down the gloss), so anyway, I just prefer the clear satin over the oil.
My point is - it's very easy to spray a clear satin lacquer on the back of the neck as described above. It takes maybe half a day tops - the most tedious part is the neck removal and taping off the fingerboard. Then again, I'm a rosewood fingerboard guy, so a maple fingerboard is a different story. I would imagine you'd have to spray the fingerboad and then steel wool the frets after the paint is dry. Somebody mentioned in another response something like if you don't like the oiled neck, then do something about it, which is my position on the situation. EB/MM is not going to change what they're doing because I bet most of the folks like the oiled neck.
In my experience, trussrod adjustments take a few hours to settle. I was just saying that it's unlikely that a neck would shift between your house and a gig unless the gig was many hours away. Bass guitar necks need time to adjust to humidity changes, it's not instantaneous as some people seems to think.
Stephen
Well-known member
+1
The home-to-gig adjustments - if necessary at all - are usually due to temperature changes, not humidity. The strings are metal and react much quicker (and stronger) than wood. If the temperature at the venue is about the same as in your home, just let it settle a bit, in the worst case retune ... but there shouldn't be any need to touch the truss rod.
the unrepentant
Well-known member
yeah i generally let a neck settle overnight before adjusting again.
Jimmyb
Well-known member
I sometimes have to adjust mine between notes. Fortunately, I don't play very fast....
Powman
Well-known member
Something just happened that makes me convinced that the unfinished neck is the best neck in the world.
I stupidly leaned my bass on a sharp edge. It slipped and put a nice scrape on the back of the neck...I took the following steps after that.
1. Cursed at myself for being so stupid.
2. Took some very fine sand paper and sanded the scrape.
3. Wiped it clean.
4. Put on a small amount amount of gunstock oil on the sanded spot. Wait 5 minutes.
5. Rubbed off any excess oil, then put a small amount of gunstock wax on it. Wiped it clean.
6. Smiled at how well that worked. Amazed that it took less than 10 minutes in total.
Try that with a lacquered neck.
I stupidly leaned my bass on a sharp edge. It slipped and put a nice scrape on the back of the neck...I took the following steps after that.
1. Cursed at myself for being so stupid.
2. Took some very fine sand paper and sanded the scrape.
3. Wiped it clean.
4. Put on a small amount amount of gunstock oil on the sanded spot. Wait 5 minutes.
5. Rubbed off any excess oil, then put a small amount of gunstock wax on it. Wiped it clean.
6. Smiled at how well that worked. Amazed that it took less than 10 minutes in total.
Try that with a lacquered neck.
rizzo9247
Well-known member
'Father Theresa' made me legit laugh out loud....
BTW, ebmm necks just feel too good to put down
BTW, ebmm necks just feel too good to put down
RaginRog
Well-known member
'Problem' solved.
+1
BUT, I also love my Stingray, and the unfinished neck is easy to keep clean....it's called MAINTENANCE!!!
Do you let your car get filthy, and then complain that it won't stay clean.
boristhespider7
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2007
- Messages
- 113
Glossed Over
All I can say about the original post is that, in my view, the unfinished feeling of the Sterling and Stringray necks is a major component that sets the basses apart for me. I would not purchase these instruments if they had the gloss finish on the back. I have a 2008 "new" US Jazz bass that has the gloss finish and it is the instrument's key downfall. The lack of stickiness on the back of the neck combined with the neck profile is what makes MM instruments fast and playable. So, they get a little weathered -- that adds character and makes it look like you've actually used the instrument. Take care of your gear and it won't be a problem. You can't please all of the people all of the time and that's why there's room for competition in this industry. But, while I can think of improvements that MM can make (e.g., cases), I wouldn't couch it in terms of "a lot of people..." Though I will say that "a lot of people" buy MM basses with the current neck finish and feel that they are a dream come true. I can't wait for my SLO Special to arrive, by the way. Rock on...
All I can say about the original post is that, in my view, the unfinished feeling of the Sterling and Stringray necks is a major component that sets the basses apart for me. I would not purchase these instruments if they had the gloss finish on the back. I have a 2008 "new" US Jazz bass that has the gloss finish and it is the instrument's key downfall. The lack of stickiness on the back of the neck combined with the neck profile is what makes MM instruments fast and playable. So, they get a little weathered -- that adds character and makes it look like you've actually used the instrument. Take care of your gear and it won't be a problem. You can't please all of the people all of the time and that's why there's room for competition in this industry. But, while I can think of improvements that MM can make (e.g., cases), I wouldn't couch it in terms of "a lot of people..." Though I will say that "a lot of people" buy MM basses with the current neck finish and feel that they are a dream come true. I can't wait for my SLO Special to arrive, by the way. Rock on...
EdFriedland
Well-known member
Father Theresa, look... I got this leper colony see? And I was wondering, uh...
Calaveras
Well-known member
Well I bought this Stingray a few years ago. Nice bass couldnt stop playing it. Thing is I had to fly back to Oakland from NYC. Well the regular case was all I had so I stuffed it full of foam and wrapped bubble wrap around the neck.
(corssed fingers)
Get to oakland, pull the bass out at the airport. Still in tune, no neck shifting whatsoever. I think some of these guys are dropping their basses off of loading docks, Stingrays are tough as nails! This isnt some finicky boutique bass made out of laminated daisies. Maple-6 bolts-alder/ash/maple etc.
About the neck finish. Its all a preference. Neither is superior. I like poly or nitro finished because I am used to playing with a little stickiness on the back of the neck. A little tiny bit, a highly polished poly finish on a stingray neck is not as sticky as a fender jazz! It's kind of like playing a headless bass, it is disconcerting at first, your hand is used to things beinga certain way. I like the gunstock finished necks as well, just havent bought one yet.
And uh, how much time does your hand spend on the back of the neck anyway? The strings are on the other side!
Jeesh!
Play the damn bass and stop looking at the back of the neck.
(corssed fingers)
Get to oakland, pull the bass out at the airport. Still in tune, no neck shifting whatsoever. I think some of these guys are dropping their basses off of loading docks, Stingrays are tough as nails! This isnt some finicky boutique bass made out of laminated daisies. Maple-6 bolts-alder/ash/maple etc.
About the neck finish. Its all a preference. Neither is superior. I like poly or nitro finished because I am used to playing with a little stickiness on the back of the neck. A little tiny bit, a highly polished poly finish on a stingray neck is not as sticky as a fender jazz! It's kind of like playing a headless bass, it is disconcerting at first, your hand is used to things beinga certain way. I like the gunstock finished necks as well, just havent bought one yet.
And uh, how much time does your hand spend on the back of the neck anyway? The strings are on the other side!
Jeesh!
Play the damn bass and stop looking at the back of the neck.
Hellboy
Well-known member
keko
Well-known member
Well, I would like to add my contribution to this Thread.
I owned some top class basses before with finished and unfinished necks.
This Music Man that I own now have the most strongest construction of the truss rod and neck design of all!
It really doesn't matter is it finished or not at all, it's about construction and quality of the wood!
Finished neck have just one advantage instead unfinished and that's maintenance! (after 10 years it's opposite )
Humidity, moisture and hot/cold stuff affects to both versions the same way!
I admit that after 7ender's satin finished neck I had a period of "use to" on my Sterling's unfinished neck, but now I'm very happy with this one, it's very smooth and offers me a more precise playing!
Recommendations: -don't bother with that, just enjoy and play your EBMM basses!
I owned some top class basses before with finished and unfinished necks.
This Music Man that I own now have the most strongest construction of the truss rod and neck design of all!
It really doesn't matter is it finished or not at all, it's about construction and quality of the wood!
Finished neck have just one advantage instead unfinished and that's maintenance! (after 10 years it's opposite
) Humidity, moisture and hot/cold stuff affects to both versions the same way!
I admit that after 7ender's satin finished neck I had a period of "use to" on my Sterling's unfinished neck, but now I'm very happy with this one, it's very smooth and offers me a more precise playing!
Recommendations: -don't bother with that, just enjoy and play your EBMM basses!
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