SteveB
Well-known member
In my case the intonation actually didn't require any tweaking. Just the trem claw. YMMV.
- Thread starter MusicManJP6
- Start date
roburado
Well-known member
I switched to the RPS 10s, which are stock, after years of using another manufacturer's 10s. I needed to re-level the bridge when switching to that other brand and when switching back. Intonation was fine both times, I think.
Tim O'Sullivan
Well-known member
+1. 10's for good now for me.
MusicManJP6
Well-known member
I started tweaking on my guitar last night after having read all the posts on here and the linked posts kneeoh referenced.
As I mentioned before the bending of strings felt stiff with the 10's, so I tried taking out a spring and releveling the bridge using the trem claw. This made a noticeable difference, so i think i'll stick with 10's.
I also had a slight lower fret buzz, so i adjusted the truss rod a half turn. Then, my action seemed a little higher than i would like (due to the truss adjustment), so i adjusted my saddles a full turn each side or so (i've always thought they were a bit high). I also adjusted the high E side of the bridge to lower the smaller gauge strings closer to the neck.
After all these adjustments, the guitar plays and feels MUCH better! As jongitarz said, "who knows what you want your guitar to feel like better than you?"
This forum has taught me SO much about my guitar. I would not have made these adjustments had I not joined this forum and learned the proper techniques to perform the adjustments correctly!
Thanks guys..........
As I mentioned before the bending of strings felt stiff with the 10's, so I tried taking out a spring and releveling the bridge using the trem claw. This made a noticeable difference, so i think i'll stick with 10's.
I also had a slight lower fret buzz, so i adjusted the truss rod a half turn. Then, my action seemed a little higher than i would like (due to the truss adjustment), so i adjusted my saddles a full turn each side or so (i've always thought they were a bit high). I also adjusted the high E side of the bridge to lower the smaller gauge strings closer to the neck.
After all these adjustments, the guitar plays and feels MUCH better! As jongitarz said, "who knows what you want your guitar to feel like better than you?"
This forum has taught me SO much about my guitar. I would not have made these adjustments had I not joined this forum and learned the proper techniques to perform the adjustments correctly!
Thanks guys..........
I had the issue myself of hard bends and all that. When I started learning this:
[nomedia="http://youtube.com/watch?v=QlWf-A9xWok"]YouTube - Broadcast Yourself.[/nomedia] after playing with it for a few hours my fingers were RAW. I think like anything, you just have to work your finger strength and once you get there the 10's will feel normal to you again.
[nomedia="http://youtube.com/watch?v=QlWf-A9xWok"]YouTube - Broadcast Yourself.[/nomedia] after playing with it for a few hours my fingers were RAW. I think like anything, you just have to work your finger strength and once you get there the 10's will feel normal to you again.
MusicManJP6
Well-known member
Very true, although after the arrival of my new JP, which has the RPS 10's on it, I think the RPS's are easier to bend than the D'addarios I've been using on my older JP. The new JP has all 3 strings on the trem, and the older one only has 2, and the new one is STILL easier to bend! I'll prob switch to RPS's and keep the 10 gauge from here on out...
peedo_deedo
Well-known member
im sure most of you guys will find this weird, but i use 11's on both of my JP's (tuned to Eb). im loving that heavy sound that i am getting from it, combined with the D Sonic. i actually bend the strings a lot and honestly it wasnt easy at first, but i got used to it.
dannymusic
Well-known member
I've revolved all my playing around the JP6 with .010-.046. In fact, Be4 my first JP6, I playedd'addario strings for years, I've since gone exclusively with balls in all. I argue with my music store guy all the time about the color of the slinky pack.
The guitar is set up SO PERFECTLY from the factory that I nevre want to alter it...EVER.
The guitar is set up SO PERFECTLY from the factory that I nevre want to alter it...EVER.
MusicManJP6
Well-known member
Peedo: I'd say tuning to Eb helps with the bending a little, but still takes strong fingers and chalices!
Hey Peedo,
I don't find it weird at all! I switched to 11's about a month after I posted on this thread about using 10's . I also tune to Eb. Honestly, I instantly loved the 11's and never had any issues with bending (which I do a lot of too). I also spend my fair time shredding and have no complaints there either. I liked the 11's so much I've even thought about 12's but I'm afraid that some nut work would be called for and I'm not interested in that. I did have to adjust my intonation, claw, and truss afterwards but it was easily worth it!
BTW, for those taking springs out, when I first got the guitar I actually added the two extra spings for a total of 5. Tuning seemed more stable after doing that. Also, it would seem to me that removing springs would make the springs give too easy when bending and cause you to make flat bends (which I HATE).
I don't find it weird at all! I switched to 11's about a month after I posted on this thread about using 10's . I also tune to Eb. Honestly, I instantly loved the 11's and never had any issues with bending (which I do a lot of too). I also spend my fair time shredding and have no complaints there either. I liked the 11's so much I've even thought about 12's but I'm afraid that some nut work would be called for and I'm not interested in that. I did have to adjust my intonation, claw, and truss afterwards but it was easily worth it!
BTW, for those taking springs out, when I first got the guitar I actually added the two extra spings for a total of 5. Tuning seemed more stable after doing that. Also, it would seem to me that removing springs would make the springs give too easy when bending and cause you to make flat bends (which I HATE).
