JP6 Tuning Problems?

[DrKev]

Hummmm.. I put EB 9's on my new JP BFR and wrapped 1/2 around the post. Maybe that is why I have the tuning issue..

No, 1/2 or 3/4 of a wrap is perfectly fine.


Tuning stability is not rocket science but certainly can seem like a black art. Here is my very simplified way of thinking, which might help...

First, never work with old strings. They can't stay in tune anyway.

If one string goes sharp, it's binding somewhere (i.e. friction). Usually a little lubrication is the answer.
If one string goes flat, it's slipping or stretching, which suggests stringing technique. Next Make sure the tuning locks are tight and the ball end is well seated in the trem block. Stretch new strings well (without tugging so hard that you damage or kink them).

If all strings are sharp or flat after trem use, we may have to look at the knife edges and mounting posts (perhaps clean or light lube if necessary).


As Beej (and others mentioned) a little lubrication in the nut slots can make a world of difference. I also add a tiny amount to the top of the saddles (Mineral oil, chapstick, pencil lead, lithium grease all work well). Only use the minimum amount necessary!

But remember a simple fact - the most stable possible trem is a double locking system (like a Floyd) and even then they sometimes have problems. There is no such thing as perfect tuning stability, so don't fall into the trap of chasing unobtainable perfection.

 

[BrickGlass]

No, 1/2 or 3/4 of a wrap is perfectly fine.


Tuning stability is not rocket science but certainly can seem like a black art. Here is my very simplified way of thinking, which might help...

First, never work with old strings. They can't stay in tune anyway.

If one string goes sharp, it's binding somewhere (i.e. friction). Usually a little lubrication is the answer.
If one string goes flat, it's slipping or stretching, which suggests stringing technique. Next Make sure the tuning locks are tight and the ball end is well seated in the trem block. Stretch new strings well (without tugging so hard that you damage or kink them).

If all strings are sharp or flat after trem use, we may have to look at the knife edges and mounting posts (perhaps clean or light lube if necessary).


As Beej (and others mentioned) a little lubrication in the nut slots can make a world of difference. I also add a tiny amount to the top of the saddles (Mineral oil, chapstick, pencil lead, lithium grease all work well). Only use the minimum amount necessary!

But remember a simple fact - the most stable possible trem is a double locking system (like a Floyd) and even then they sometimes have problems. There is no such thing as perfect tuning stability, so don't fall into the trap of chasing unobtainable perfection.

+1 to everything in that post.

 

[ACELUEK]

No, 1/2 or 3/4 of a wrap is perfectly fine.


Tuning stability is not rocket science but certainly can seem like a black art. Here is my very simplified way of thinking, which might help...

First, never work with old strings. They can't stay in tune anyway.

If one string goes sharp, it's binding somewhere (i.e. friction). Usually a little lubrication is the answer.
If one string goes flat, it's slipping or stretching, which suggests stringing technique. Next Make sure the tuning locks are tight and the ball end is well seated in the trem block. Stretch new strings well (without tugging so hard that you damage or kink them).

If all strings are sharp or flat after trem use, we may have to look at the knife edges and mounting posts (perhaps clean or light lube if necessary).


As Beej (and others mentioned) a little lubrication in the nut slots can make a world of difference. I also add a tiny amount to the top of the saddles (Mineral oil, chapstick, pencil lead, lithium grease all work well). Only use the minimum amount necessary!

But remember a simple fact - the most stable possible trem is a double locking system (like a Floyd) and even then they sometimes have problems. There is no such thing as perfect tuning stability, so don't fall into the trap of chasing unobtainable perfection.

Thanks. I am aware of the contact points of the strings and tremolo. The only one I have not yet checked is the tremolo knife edges. I had already used "nut sauce" on the nut, but nothing on the saddles. I have 4 guitars with floating trems, 2 with locking nuts. This is the only one giving me problems. It does appear that the bridge does not return to same spot each time (flat).

 

[DrKev]

Be careful on piezo saddles, I don't know if lubricants can affect anything there. As I said before, minimum amount necessary. I often use one drop of 3-n-1 oil on a cotton bud and wipe the saddles before stringing. That's all you need.

With super accurate tuners these days we can get hung up on tiny issues that are not a problem in 'real' use. Any of us who used a floating 6-screw strat trem knows how bad tuning stability can be. The old trick there was to pull up briefly and you'd back in tune. We didn't see that as an inconvenience, we saw it as a magic trick!

 

[ACELUEK]

Be careful on piezo saddles, I don't know if lubricants can affect anything there. As I said before, minimum amount necessary. I often use one drop of 3-n-1 oil on a cotton bud and wipe the saddles before stringing. That's all you need.

With super accurate tuners these days we can get hung up on tiny issues that are not a problem in 'real' use. Any of us who used a floating 6-screw strat trem knows how bad tuning stability can be. The old trick there was to pull up briefly and you'd back in tune. We didn't see that as an inconvenience, we saw it as a magic trick!

Pulling up is how I'm dealing with it right now.. I was just not sure if that was typical on this model. If it was not, I assumed I could get it resolved. I will give CS a call just to discuss the issue. I'm not real picky guy on most things, but constant tuning issues is one of the issues that bothers me more.

One way to deal with it is add an extra tremolo spring and then block the tremolo to only allow divebombs.

Thanks again for the input!

 

[ACELUEK]

I replaced the strings and stayed with EB 9's. Pulled the string through the tuner all the way before tightening. Tightened (lower) the bridge height screws so the blade is on a fresh part of the stud. Adjusted the springs so that the bridge is parallel to the top..

I use the tremolo now and no issues with tuning.. I could see some wear on the studs and most likely the bridge was not rotating freely... Thanks for everyone's input..

 

[BCMCMoose]

Ace, I'm glad to hear the issue is resolved. Hope the others are too. Sorry I didnt think of the pull straight through on the locking tuners. I overtightened mine the first time and stripped/snapped a new low e on a Cobalt set

 

[DrKev]

I overtightened mine the first time and stripped/snapped a new low e on a Cobalt set

Holy cow, that's tight!!

 

[BCMCMoose]

Yeah, I have always had a problem with overtightening things, (stripped many a bolt working on engines). That coupled with a good grip strength and unfamialarity with those tuners, and I waaayyy overdid it! in retrospect I am lucky i didnt damage the tuner. I tightned it so much, that as I tried to tune it, the winding sprung back off the tuner and the tunner still held the core! And of course my GC didnt have just a 46 Cobalt, so now I have a set of spares for the 1-5 strings. I have had the high e set break before, but not the low e, (more accurately in my case i guess it's the low e flat)