Question Key setup tips to get a Luke to play as slinky as possible...

[Random Hero]

...with 10s. What is the key, with 3 springs in the trem? With a low action, is it getting the truss set just right? getting the angle of the saddles just perfect? Something else?

 

[Slingy]

With 10's I like 3 springs like this /|\ for floating or 4 springs like this || || for down only.

 

[Random Hero]

How about 3 springs for down only?

 

[Roubster]

The key is to get the neck as straight as possible and then lower the saddles how you like it until you reach the action you desire without extreme buzzing. Once you reach that point, you can adjust the truss rod to get rid of some fret buzz. The trem should be smooth on its own, unless the springs are dead for some reason.

All you have to do for down only is to screw in the trem claw to make it flat with the body. You really dont need 4 springs for down only. just have it in | | | position and screw down the trem claw depending on how much tension you want. Do it a bit at a time and re-tune so you can test out the different tension of the springs once it is flat.

 

[Random Hero]

Roubster, do you mean tension of the bar of tension of the strings on bends?

 

[Roubster]

Tension of the Trem Bar as you push down on it. That depends on how much you screw in the trem claw. Thats why do it a bit at a time and re-tune to see how much tension you like. I dont think you want to reallt work out when you want to do a dive hehe. The string tension wont change as you are not changing the scale of the neck. Well, it will be easier to bend a bit when the trem is floating, but then again you have to bend a bit more because of that.

 

[Slingy]

I just like 4 with 10's for down only which leaves the bar rather stiff and only minor adjustment of the trem claw when switching from 9's and 3 springs but as roubster says either way will do.

 

[jcm900]

The Luke will feel smoother with a floating trem IMO.

 

[TNT]

Hero,

The "key" to absolute PERFECT set up, i.e., exact action, and no buzzes is this: (like it or not)

1. trem plate must be level
2. truss rod must have a perfectly straight neck
3. saddles must be level

PERFECTION
4. a. Height adjustment: you then need to "shim" the neck in the neck
pocket to the exact height you want your action.
b.you then will "shim" or "change out" the sizes of the individual saddles
of all the strings to a polished perfection of action.

It is time consuming, and many settle for a much less than perfect set up, and thus skip all this; but if you want it absolute, this is the only way to acheive it.

EBMM guitars are the closest to perfection of all guitars from factory (that I've seen) with very little tolerance.

 

[Random Hero]

Perfectly straight? No relief at all? Interesting.

 

[dwells]

dude put the trem flush on the body the Luke feels the best that way!!!

 

[Spudmurphy]

I had a Luke around for a set up and felt (IMO) that the floating trem was very high.
I compared it with Lukes from the factory when I was at the Strings n Things stand at an exhibition and the trems were all set up like this.
I (IMO#2) would prefer to have the trem JUST floating - it gives better tuning stability - even better as my learned fellow knucklhead dwells says is to have the trem flush to the body. Of course the floating/not floating height is critical to the rest of the set up.
I (IMO#3) prefer to set up with a flat neck. Get the strings as low as you possibly can - and I use the same radius on the saddles as the curve on the neck. Feeler gauges are great for this. Dan Erlewine uses bits of guitar strings bent with a small right angle to do this.
I would then give the neck a small amount of relief by slackening the truss rod. Just remember the truss rod only works on a small part of the neck - not the full length.

I would like to "get into" the concept of shimming but you have to be VERY careful as incorrect placement of the shim and over-tightening of the neck screws can lead to a "hump" in the neck around the 18+ frets making the guitar choke.

Set ups on guitars are personal to the player and the way I set up a guitar for me might not be to your liking - I would much prefer to watch a player play his guitar - does he like the Steve Vai "warble" when the trem is flicked. Does he really dig in and bend the strings - does he play legato style runs. Does he "dive and pull up the trem a lot".

So good luck with your set up - get a good book on it - it's not rocket science is it NorM?

 

[azazael]

I really need to learn how to do proper setups I am tired of handing out cash to techs who do a half arsed job.

 

[buckethead777]

Yeah me too Azazael.
I'm sick of trying to lower the action, only to find heaps of fret buzz. I took my Silo
to a great shop, and they did an amazing setup on it, wish i could do the same on mu Luke and JP7. Can't be that hard can it

I think this would be a great aid in getting good saddle radius
STEWMAC.COM : Pictures of Understring Radius Gauges

 

[Random Hero]

I find bends feel better with a bit of relief in the neck rather than it being poker straight... they seem to have less resistance but maybe that's me?

 

[petruccirocks02]

Adam, you got a Luke?

-Phil

 

[Random Hero]

Phil, I'm setting up a friend's.