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Brodidley

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Im trying to lower the action on the B string of my SR Classic V. in order to lower the saddle to the desired height, I need shorter saddle adjustment screws. Are these parts available for order from EB?
 

mynan

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I'm trying to picture this and having a hard time. If you loosen the two adjustment screws, doesn't the saddle touch the bridge plate? And isn't that the lowest it will go?
 

Rod Trussbroken

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Im trying to lower the action on the B string of my SR Classic V. in order to lower the saddle to the desired height, I need shorter saddle adjustment screws. Are these parts available for order from EB?
.
The "Classic" series Basses use hollow barrel saddles as opposed to solid saddles. When a barrel saddle is adjusted lower, the two adjustment screws become closer to the inner upper part of the barrel. A point can be reached where the saddle can't be adjusted any lower as there is no exit point for the screws at the upper part of the saddle. This seems to be the problem you have.

Rather than alternate screws, a shim added to the rear of the neck pocket on the body will fix things and allow more adjustment. A guitar tech would be able to do this for you

Shims can be purchased from Ernie Ball MM.
 

mynan

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Location
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The "Classic" series Basses use hollow barrel saddles as opposed to solid saddles. When a barrel saddle is adjusted lower, the two adjustment screws become closer to the inner upper part of the barrel. A point can be reached where the saddle can't be adjusted any lower as there is no exit point for the screws at the upper part of the saddle.
Thanks for the explanation. So I'm assuming the holes in the top of the saddles are wide enough for the Allen wrench, but not wide enough for the adjustment screws.

1761603466408.jpeg
 

mynan

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Would a set of regular saddles work? MM sells those for $25.

If not, you could buy an extra set of classic saddles for $25 and drill out the holes so the adjustment screws fit.
 
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Rod Trussbroken

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Would a set of regular saddles work? MM sells those for $25.

If not, you could buy an extra set of classic saddles for $25 and drill out the holes so the adjustment screws fit.
.
The holes for the allen wrench aren't wide enough for the saddle screws to exit. Drilling the holes wider would need the hole to be rethreaded (if the saddle screws are long enough).

IMO, a shim is the quickest and easiest way to go. Some instruments are shimmed at the factory.

Ernie Ball can supply them. Different thicknesses have different colours. I have a few of each:

.010 - Brown
.015 - Pink
.020 – Yellow
 

Brodidley

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Joined
Oct 25, 2025
Messages
2
Location
LBC California
.
The "Classic" series Basses use hollow barrel saddles as opposed to solid saddles. When a barrel saddle is adjusted lower, the two adjustment screws become closer to the inner upper part of the barrel. A point can be reached where the saddle can't be adjusted any lower as there is no exit point for the screws at the upper part of the saddle. This seems to be the problem you have.

Rather than alternate screws, a shim added to the rear of the neck pocket on the body will fix things and allow more adjustment. A guitar tech would be able to do this for you

Shims can be purchased from Ernie Ball MM.
Thank you for the feedback.
I have done a shim on a P bass I own, and the results were good.
Also, with a shorter screw the saddle for the B string would be very close to just sitting on the bridge base.
I was
I'm trying to picture this and having a hard time. If you loosen the two adjustment screws, doesn't the saddle touch the bridge plate? And isn't that the lowest it will go?
No the screws insert into the bottom of the saddle and the saddle is not threaded all the way through, so the screws is stopped with about 3/16" of space. a
A 1/8" shorted screw would give me the ability to lower the B where I want it and still not quite have the saddle resting on the bridge base.
thinking a slightly shorter screw would give me what I want without having do all the steps adding a shim requires.
 
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