Help! Luke III whammy bar

[petrucci1]

Hi Guys,

Had a query.
The Luke III comes with 2 springs at back to give the whammy bar a floating option.
I noticed that once I add an extra spring for better stability, the whammy bar locks and becomes quite uncomfortable to use because of its height; it locks too and does not move upwards.

My question is

1)do you guys add a spring to the 2 existing ones or just leave it how it is?
2)how much adjustment do you guys to the truss rod key circle to ensure you get a low action for fast shredding? do you guys move it clockwise or anti-clockwise for lower action?

Will be great to get some feedback and tips.

Thanks

 

[GWDavis28]

Hi Guys,

Had a query.
The Luke III comes with 2 springs at back to give the whammy bar a floating option.
I noticed that once I add an extra spring for better stability, the whammy bar locks and becomes quite uncomfortable to use because of its height; it locks too and does not move upwards.

My question is

1)do you guys add a spring to the 2 existing ones or just leave it how it is?
2)how much adjustment do you guys to the truss rod key circle to ensure you get a low action for fast shredding? do you guys move it clockwise or anti-clockwise for lower action?

Will be great to get some feedback and tips.

Thanks

Hi sorry, not a trem guy, but this link should answer your truss rod questions.

http://forums.ernieball.com/music-man-guitars/57018-truss-rod-wheel-question-losse.html

Glenn |B)

 

[WillyD]

Truss Rod Adjustments

have a look at this:

 

[xjbebop]

If you are not familiar and comfortable with the procedures and processes of adjusting trems and truss rods, I would highly recommend you don't use your Music Man guitar for a learning base. It's very easy to do damage if you're not careful!
Seek out a knowledgeable repair person for help, either in person or at least by phone (MM customer service...)

It's not rocket science, but there is a learning curve....

 

[petrucci1]

have a look at this:

View attachment 22938

I understand this part. Obviously i tried to get a low action and did the right tighty thing. Didnt get a a good enough low action(specially after 12th fret) but started getting a lot of fret buzz, so decided not to do it anymore. I was more interested in understanding how I can adjust the screws which hold on to the springs on backside of the guitar. If i screw it in more, will it give me lower action or if loosen the screw, it will give me lower action? Also also how much screwing in is advisable or permissible?

 

[WillyD]

I understand this part. Obviously i tried to get a low action and did the right tighty thing. Didnt get a a good enough low action(specially after 12th fret) but started getting a lot of fret buzz, so decided not to do it anymore. I was more interested in understanding how I can adjust the screws which hold on to the springs on backside of the guitar. If i screw it in more, will it give me lower action or if loosen the screw, it will give me lower action? Also also how much screwing in is advisable or permissible?

The best way to adjust action is with a truss rod adjustment. The spring adjustment would be used to set the amount of float you like. Tightening the trem claw will bring the bridge angle down(more spring tension) loosening it will allow the bridge to move up (less spring tension) here is a link to our FAQ section with helpful information.

Music Man Guitars

 

[mikeller]

FWIW - I use 3 springs on my L3's (both) and adjusted the claw to maintain the floating bridge.

 

[BrickGlass]

You need to loosen the screws going through the claw to get the bridge more "floating" again. In other words make the spring tension less and the string tension more to pull the bridge more forward again. Fairly easy, but if you don't feel comfortable doing it then by all means let a repair guy do it. I use three springs on my Luke and get it to be able to move up or down with the whammy bar no problem.