Need opions on adjustments

[tadawson]

Yea, it was pretty bad. I corrected it, and as far as I know his truss rod is still in good working order. Any of you who have broken a truss rod? Just outta curiosity if it broke what would happen as far as its function? I meen obvioulsy the truss rod would no long effect relief in the neck, but how would the truss rod act, would it be loose and never stop turning like if you strip a screw or would it be tight and just wouldn't move? I've never been put in this situation before because I usually adjust till the neck is pretty straight then check the relief. I've never overdone it as far as I know cuz every truss I used, on my Fender, or even my old Yamaha is still fully functional. Like said I've never overdone it, and hopefully never will, because even though my SR is my main bass now, I know Id still go through a deep state of depression even if it was my Yamaha.

If you actually broke the rod, it would spin free, and the neck would tend to have very high relief . . . . but no, I have never broken one personally . . . . .

- Tim

 

[Brim]

man...I can't imagine snapping a truss rod! I wonder if it would make a loud pop like breaking a bone or something.

 

[Iamjacksbass]

So if the truss rod was broken all the relief would be let outta the neck? So pretty much it would be like if I were to break my spine. I would become pudding. Hey Tadawson, if you never broken a truss rod, how do you know all this. Don't take that the wrong way I'm not challenging you in any way shape or form I was just wondering were you found that info. Ok so bassically let me recap, So if your truss rod is about to snap it would be in a backbow, Correct. Finally if my trussrod was to break all the relief would be let outta my neck, my truss rod would spin freely, and basically my neck would be irrversable, Correct? Once again I'm a little narrodic, but I just dont wanna screw anything up.

 

[fresnorich]

Hit my profile and you'll see who I am!

Cool job!

 

[tadawson]

So if the truss rod was broken all the relief would be let outta the neck? So pretty much it would be like if I were to break my spine. I would become pudding. Hey Tadawson, if you never broken a truss rod, how do you know all this. Don't take that the wrong way I'm not challenging you in any way shape or form I was just wondering were you found that info. Ok so bassically let me recap, So if your truss rod is about to snap it would be in a backbow, Correct. Finally if my trussrod was to break all the relief would be let outta my neck, my truss rod would spin freely, and basically my neck would be irrversable, Correct? Once again I'm a little narrodic, but I just dont wanna screw anything up.

No actually, you would get more relief - no tension on the rod to pull the headstock back. And how do I know this? Simple mechanics, primarily, plus a lot of reading . . . . there is no voodoo or complexity in a truss rod setup . . . . . that, and doing my own service and repairs on just about anything I own, and being an engineer by education does not hurt either . . . .

So, if no other problems exist, then I would expect to be in backbow before breaking a rod. I think that the typical breakage scenario, though, is that the neck wood gets compressed, and you run out of threads, thus jamming the nut. Then, if you keep cranking , the torque on the rod can cause it to break. (I have heard a lot of folks discuss this scenario . . . ). If you are in that scenario, just take the truss rod nut off, ad a couple of washers (to give space to get the truss rod nut back onto the theads) and adjust away. I guess the key (for me at least) would be that if I felt a truss rod adjustment was getting to stiff or tight, I would try it with the string tension released. If it was still very hard or tight, then there is another problem that needs looking into, and you will be a candidate for breakage if you keep forcing it. Sometimes, it may simple be as little as taking the truss rod nut off the rod, adding a little lube, and putting it back . . . .

Were you to break the rod, then the neck would NOT be in backbow - it would be bowed forward (the truss opposes the natural forward motion of the string pull). You would not be able to alter relief, and I would expect the nut to spin freely, or even fall off. Stripping the nut is another possibility, where you would not be able to change relief, but the rod would not be truly broken. Truss rods CAN be replaced, but its a pretty $pendy job, so the instrument had better be worth it. Otherwise, a replacement 3rd party neck is generally cheaper.

- Tim

 

[Iamjacksbass]

That sums it up for me! Once again I made a boo-boo when saying "all the relief out of the neck" I too know that the truss rod is what actually keeps tension in the neck, along with the string. Kinda like a bow for a bow and arrow. I have never snapped a truss rod, and never plan too. I dont usually have to make major adjustment on the truss rod usually just when there too much relief, and that easy to tell with the string trick. I really appriciate all the help. Everyone has really been quick to reply. One thing I love about the SR, and all MM for that matter is the wheel instead of justthe nut. With the weel I can trully gauge my truss rod adjustments and I know were I am, with the nut it sometime hard to gauge, and move it for that matter. Like I said I dont play around with my truss rod just make adjustments when needed. Hopefully that will keep me from breaking anything.

 

[tadawson]

That sums it up for me! Once again I made a boo-boo when saying "all the relief out of the neck" I too know that the truss rod is what actually keeps tension in the neck, along with the string. Kinda like a bow for a bow and arrow. I have never snapped a truss rod, and never plan too. I dont usually have to make major adjustment on the truss rod usually just when there too much relief, and that easy to tell with the string trick. I really appriciate all the help. Everyone has really been quick to reply. One thing I love about the SR, and all MM for that matter is the wheel instead of justthe nut. With the weel I can trully gauge my truss rod adjustments and I know were I am, with the nut it sometime hard to gauge, and move it for that matter. Like I said I dont play around with my truss rod just make adjustments when needed. Hopefully that will keep me from breaking anything.

Glad to be of help, and enjoy!

- Tim

 

[Iamjacksbass]

Actually, now that I think of it I do have one more question. Not to the muddy the water with talk of Fenders, but I go on anyway. I here people talking about straightening out there necks till its absolutly straight. My fender is in good condition right now I still use it, but I cannot seem to get the neck to straighten out. Maybe I'm to timid to crank the truss rod more then it needs to go, but right now it pretty tight, and it has just a hunt of relief. This is alright with me as liek I said earlier, I use my truss rod as a relief fixer, rather then a relief maker if you will. Meaning I use my truss rod only to correct bad relief or correct a neck with no relief. I always been interested to see how my bass would play with a perfect straight neck, seeing as every bass I've bought has come outta the store with a inkling of relief....well that not true, I bought one with a backbow, but I fixed it as soon as I got outta the store. Now as I said earlier, my bass is set up so there is relief in the neck but, it not to straight. My truss rod seems very tight, and almost seems that if I were to turn it more it could possibly snap. I am not in a backbow though. Any words of wisdom would be apprciated. This is with my Fender by the way not my MM. Is it possibly more of a correction is possible with the MM design then with a Fender?

 

[adouglas]

This does not directly answer your question about MM vs. Fender, but a perfectly straight neck is NOT desirable. It will buzz.

You must have a certain amount of relief at all times. Think about the shape of a vibrating string...it's a long curve, right? The frets have to clear that, which is why we have relief in the first place.

A perfectly flat neck would not clear the vibrating string...therefore it will have fret buzz. That's why you always see a very slight curve.

 

[Iamjacksbass]

This does not directly answer your question about MM vs. Fender, but a perfectly straight neck is NOT desirable. It will buzz.

You must have a certain amount of relief at all times. Think about the shape of a vibrating string...it's a long curve, right? The frets have to clear that, which is why we have relief in the first place.

A perfectly flat neck would not clear the vibrating string...therefore it will have fret buzz. That's why you always see a very slight curve.

I agree with you full heartedly in my opinion, if I didn't have relief in my neck I would buzz all over the place, and I have a fairly light touch. What I wanna know is I'm not planning on it, but with the way things sound, could I put another crank into the truss rod, or would one more turn snap it? Like I said I have no intention on doing this in fact to tell you the truth the adjuster on the MM has perplexed me to endless bounds,because is so simple, but I still stick to my rule if it feels good play it, but in you opinion is the truss rod fully tightened or no?

 

[tkarter]

If it ever takes more than 1/4 turn to where you desire it from a factory setup then you probably should rethink your desires.

That said. There are guidelines and if followed your EB bass will adjust how it needs to without breaking.

IMHO

tk

 

[brewer]

the truss rod in any bass guitar is used to set relief. A little (read not very noticeable) relief goes a long way and ensures that the string can vibrate properly when fretting on the 1-6 frets. Also, if you are adjusting the truss-rod, let the neck have time to settle in. When I do a setup I make a couple small adjustments (usually 1/4 to 1/2 turn at most) then let it sit overnight then check it again.

If you want to raise the action, raise the saddles.

this is absolutely the best advice for setting up a guitar i've ever read on here. Short and to the point.