I agree. But side wall neck pocket being too small does not sound like a usage defect. I would still contact the Factory and have them explain what could have caused this to happen
- Thread starter mazdaguy
- Start date
tbonesullivan
Well-known member
I find that you generally want to take the neck out when resolving this, or at least maker sure it can move. After the pressure, it can get "stuck" on the bottom around the shim (if there is one". In that case it won't move / adjust with regular pressure. Moving it out a bit frees it up and makes it easier to move.
Wood unfortunately can swell, which also makes things a bit hard to deal with. My Stingray 5H has a VERY tight neck pocket, and I had to really put some pressure with a book on the back of the neck to get it to start moving out of the pocket, which was "wiggle wiggle". My Luke III with a rosewood neck? That falls right out when the screws are loose.
Some makers actually design their neck pockets to be loose, like the PRS bolt ons. The CE24 and related models in particular usually have room for a few sheets of paper on both sides of the neck when properly aligned.
Anyway, to the TO, I would say take it to a tech if you are not comfortable with taking the neck out, and this should be an easy fix. If they have to adjust the pocket a bit, that's also an easy fix any tech should be able to do with a sanding block. A little bit is all it takes.
Wood unfortunately can swell, which also makes things a bit hard to deal with. My Stingray 5H has a VERY tight neck pocket, and I had to really put some pressure with a book on the back of the neck to get it to start moving out of the pocket, which was "wiggle wiggle". My Luke III with a rosewood neck? That falls right out when the screws are loose.
Some makers actually design their neck pockets to be loose, like the PRS bolt ons. The CE24 and related models in particular usually have room for a few sheets of paper on both sides of the neck when properly aligned.
Anyway, to the TO, I would say take it to a tech if you are not comfortable with taking the neck out, and this should be an easy fix. If they have to adjust the pocket a bit, that's also an easy fix any tech should be able to do with a sanding block. A little bit is all it takes.
DrKev
Moderator
This. Sterling Ball would often remind people here that a slightly loose pocket is better than too tight. Fewer and less serious finish cracks at the corner of the pocket with wood shrinkage or rough handling, and it leaves room for neck/string alignment.
@Adder: Re why this happens? Manufacturing tolerances. Every thing made has specified target dimensions and there will be a small tolerance allowed, i.e. a narrow range of dimensions slightly above and below that number that will be acceptable. Some bodies will have a pocket a hair oversized and some smidge undersized. Same for necks. That means that some bodies and necks will fit tight while others may have a little more room than others. And while in theory every piece of wood should be dried as much as possible, there could still be a little final "settling" to final dimensions. We know necks do this, neck shrinkage is why fret sprout occurs, but slight swelling is also possible. A neck pocket fit and alignment that was acceptably tight could in theory become a hair too tight. This (and the fact that no human workforce anywhere on the planet in the history, or future, of mankind is 100% perfect at every task) is why warranties exist.
Thank you - that's great advice.
You may be right…. I may be crazy.
Just to add a bit. wood moves/settles( shrink, warp, swell) after cutting/shaping even if it is absolutely dry due to some fiber “release” after cuts and material removal made.
To the OP: just try to take strings off and take the neck completely off. After that put it back in and without the strings see how much play you have. Start screwing those screws in and make sure it not too tights and you still have the same amount of play as you had on the previous step. Put 1st and 6th sting on with minimal tension just to where they would go. Start pushing the neck and see where it needs to go. That will give you the idea what side and how much you need to push it.
To the OP: just try to take strings off and take the neck completely off. After that put it back in and without the strings see how much play you have. Start screwing those screws in and make sure it not too tights and you still have the same amount of play as you had on the previous step. Put 1st and 6th sting on with minimal tension just to where they would go. Start pushing the neck and see where it needs to go. That will give you the idea what side and how much you need to push it.
Steve Nukather
Well-known member
there will not be much play, if any, with the neck mounting screws tightly threaded through the body. it's best to enlarge these holes. this will allow the right amount of play to achieve perfect neck alignment. the secondary benefit is a tighter neck to body connection as seen here: Callaham Vintage Guitars and Parts (How To: Widen the Neck Screw Holes for Increased Sustain)
Sorry, but I don't know what you are talking about. I just installed a neck on my new EBMM and it was enough play to get the perforce alignment. Same was on my L2.
And about that statement : "Here is a quick mod that will increase sustain and frequency response." -- this phrase is so ridiculous.
And about that statement : "Here is a quick mod that will increase sustain and frequency response." -- this phrase is so ridiculous.
DrKev
Moderator
AgreeSorry, but I don't know what you are talking about. I just installed a neck on my new EBMM and it was enough play to get the perforce alignment. Same was on my L2.
And about that statement : "Here is a quick mod that will increase sustain and frequency response." -- this phrase is so ridiculous.
To further add about wood and tolerances, even after the wood has "settled" and is fully seasoned, wood is still an organic and porous substance that can absorb and release moisture to its surrounding environment. There's a reason why string instruments such as violins, violas, celli, acoustic guitars, etc., need to ideally be in humidity-controlled environments, especially when they're made from solid wood. Wood swells when it's humid, and shrinks when it's dry. There's a reason why doors may stick only part of the year, usually when it's humid out. That's also why solid acoustic guitar tops will crack and seams will open in the winter if the guitar is kept too long in a low (<20%) humidity environment. Wood also is anisotropic, so it doesn't swell the same amount in all directions. That's why wood can swell into a warp.
So, you need to have some play in the neck pocket, to compensate for the neck and body swelling a little in the humid months, and shrinking in the dry months, unless you plan on always keeping your guitars in a humidity-controlled environment. It's worse if you live in a place where you see extremes of both. That's why the finish around the pocket can crack- in humid months, the neck swells and the body swells, resulting in a larger neck fitting into a smaller pocket. If there isn't enough tolerance, that translates into a finish crack as the pressure deforms the pocket.
Where I live, the winter months are bone dry due to the really cold weather, so all my guitars will go easily a half step or more flat, the action gets really high, and the frets sprout due to the neck shrinking from lack of humidity. In the summer, the opposite happens, the guitars go way sharp and the action will start buzzing w/o a truss rod adjustment (but the fret sprout goes away!) as the neck swells and back-bows.
So, the loose fit in the pocket is a good thing, although it means the neck can go out of alignment if given a good knock or jolt. But that's much easier to fix than a finish crack or worse - being unable to realign the neck without doing minor surgery on the pocket.
So, you need to have some play in the neck pocket, to compensate for the neck and body swelling a little in the humid months, and shrinking in the dry months, unless you plan on always keeping your guitars in a humidity-controlled environment. It's worse if you live in a place where you see extremes of both. That's why the finish around the pocket can crack- in humid months, the neck swells and the body swells, resulting in a larger neck fitting into a smaller pocket. If there isn't enough tolerance, that translates into a finish crack as the pressure deforms the pocket.
Where I live, the winter months are bone dry due to the really cold weather, so all my guitars will go easily a half step or more flat, the action gets really high, and the frets sprout due to the neck shrinking from lack of humidity. In the summer, the opposite happens, the guitars go way sharp and the action will start buzzing w/o a truss rod adjustment (but the fret sprout goes away!) as the neck swells and back-bows.
So, the loose fit in the pocket is a good thing, although it means the neck can go out of alignment if given a good knock or jolt. But that's much easier to fix than a finish crack or worse - being unable to realign the neck without doing minor surgery on the pocket.
