Help! New User - Setting up a Vintage Trem on an Axis Super Sport

[whoatherechunk]

First off, I'm a new user on this board but am still a regular user of talkbass and tgp although my use has dwindled down. I have a Cherry Burst Axis Super Sport I purchased over two years ago and while it has been set up professionally a couple times I am now determined to do all the set ups myself. I know how to do adjustments on any stringed instrument without a trem so I guess all these physics of spring/string tension is getting to me. Intonation, truss rod adjustment, re-stringing, etc are of no problem to me. I have searched the forum and have found lots of great advice and tips. For instance I read that Axis Sports come out of the factory with the trem flush to the body. Should be easier for me since getting a proper float is more of a pain it seems. I found this thread http://forums.ernieball.com/music-man-guitars/42841-simple-axis-maintenance-attn-many-pix.html and it helped me a bunch. I guess my main questions are how exactly should the pivot posts be adjusted / how do you know how tight you should have the bear claw or is it mostly out of personal preference. Right now the guitar is set up decently and the trem is set up flush to the body. I can only dive down but it feels as if the bridge hits the body a little too hard when utilizing the trem arm. Any tips, video, or additional insight onto more threads would be great. Sorry, if this topic has been discussed to death but I couldn't really find any straight up answers to my questions. Thanks!

 

[whoatherechunk]

bump

 

[DrKev]

With a vintage style trem, if the pivot posts are too high you'll see a gap under the front of the trem plate when the back of the trem plate is contact with the guitar body. It's not a bad way to adjust - go for slightly too high and then adjust downward to just about flush. You'll never need to touch the posts again. String height is then re-adjusted with the saddles.

Tune the guitar to pitch. Unscrew the claw springs until the bridge just barely starts to float (the back will begin to lift and the strings will detune slightly). Now re-tighten the screws the minimum amount necessary to get back to flush. That gives you the minimum amount of spring tension to keep the bridge flush with the body. The advantage is the trem is very easy to use and there is very little pressure on the finish. The disadvantage is that when you bend a string, you'll see the bridge lift slightly and the strings will slightly detune, just like a fully floating bridge does. (which is only a problem for some double stop bends).

If that's a problem for you, tighten the claw screws a little more, so that the bridge no longer moves when you bend. This gives you all the stability of a hard tail while allowing downward trem action, without too much backward pressure on the finish under the trem plate. There is no need to tighten the claws springs more than that.

 

[Spudmurphy]

Kev nailed it. I agree with the steps he has set out.

It then boils down to personal choice - I do play with a lot of bending and bending within double stops and I find a trem that floats just too much of a pain. Interestingly enough I bleeb Albert prefers a floating trem, so he manages allright but there again he is one hell of a player - I wonder if he still uses a floating trem?

I prefer to have the trem claw screwed in a bit or even a fourth/fifth spring.
- it's now down to your preference.

 

[whoatherechunk]

great tips. i will report back here once i have the results!

 

[fbecir]

I do play with a lot of bending and bending within double stops and I find a trem that floats just too much of a pain. Interestingly enough I bleeb Albert prefers a floating trem, so he manages allright but there again he is one hell of a player - I wonder if he still uses a floating trem?

The secret is to block the trem with your right hand while you do the double stops. Not so easy when you have also to pick notes at the same time. But as you said, Albert Lee manages to do it nicely

If you choose to set up your trem for dive only action, you can choose to adjust the tension of the claw for light action (minimum effort for dive bombs ) or for an heavier action (you need more strength for dive bombs but if you break a string, your trem does not go up and your guitar stay in tune).

 

[Jon82]

With a vintage style trem, if the pivot posts are too high you'll see a gap under the front of the trem plate when the back of the trem plate is contact with the guitar body. It's not a bad way to adjust - go for slightly too high and then adjust downward to just about flush. You'll never need to touch the posts again. String height is then re-adjusted with the saddles.

Tune the guitar to pitch. Unscrew the claw springs until the bridge just barely starts to float (the back will begin to lift and the strings will detune slightly). Now re-tighten the screws the minimum amount necessary to get back to flush. That gives you the minimum amount of spring tension to keep the bridge flush with the body. The advantage is the trem is very easy to use and there is very little pressure on the finish. The disadvantage is that when you bend a string, you'll see the bridge lift slightly and the strings will slightly detune, just like a fully floating bridge does. (which is only a problem for some double stop bends).

If that's a problem for you, tighten the claw screws a little more, so that the bridge no longer moves when you bend. This gives you all the stability of a hard tail while allowing downward trem action, without too much backward pressure on the finish under the trem plate. There is no need to tighten the claws springs more than that.

I just went about setting up my new Sterling AX3.. which is very similar spec wise to this guitar..

And this advice really nails it. I wish I had read it beforehand lol.. but it matches my experiences exactly. Nice to know my instincts were dead on in this case.. but it's also very reassuring to know that this is how these guitars are supposed to work especially compared to the real deal EBMM. If anyone sees this.. the AX3 is a hell of a guitar for the money.

It's just a juggling act of bends vs how hard the trem hits the body on return. Nicely summed up though in this post, I wish it could be stickied or easier to find via google.

 

[Jon82]

The secret is to block the trem with your right hand while you do the double stops. Not so easy when you have also to pick notes at the same time. But as you said, Albert Lee manages to do it nicely

If you choose to set up your trem for dive only action, you can choose to adjust the tension of the claw for light action (minimum effort for dive bombs ) or for an heavier action (you need more strength for dive bombs but if you break a string, your trem does not go up and your guitar stay in tune).

Hahahah thought about this as well.. more good advice.

I know this topic is old and the OP is probably long finished with his problem but it can still be used as a reference for other people with similar problems.. bumping never hurts.