ex3.8
Well-known member
There is just something scarry about sand paper and a $2000.00 gutar!
I, I, I, I, I just caaaaaan't
I, I, I, I, I just caaaaaan't
Oil and Waxing Questions?
- Thread starter Raz
- Start date
Raz
Well-known member
Yes good question?
tommyindelaware
Well-known member
blackspy said:
automotive supply stores are most typically stocking those sorts of supplies...
also stew/mac........but they are pricey......
Last edited:
PeteDuBaldo
Well-known member
tommyindelaware said:
Yep! Pretty much any autoparts store should have sandpaper. I prefer 3M wet/dry, at least that's what I use when painting cars.
Sidenote:
If there are light surface scratches in the body finish from fingernails, I shoot on a ton of Dunlop 65 and rub the area with a Dunlop fret polishing cloth --- it buffs out the scratches nicely.
Raz
Well-known member
So I guess it's more of an emery cloth then at that grit (?)
tommyindelaware
Well-known member
emery cloth is the same idea as sandpaper......sand -adhered to cloth instead of paper.Raz said:
Raz
Well-known member
Oh yeah, I always thought the finer stuff went straight to the cloth, being that the heavier grits are stiff, so paper would do fine, whereas the fine stuff just wouldn't hold up on paper (rigid enough) thus the cloth...oh welltommyindelaware said:
tommyindelaware
Well-known member
i'd love to find 600 or 800 grit emery cloth.......never found it though........
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Raz said:
bluebullet
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2004
- Messages
- 231
with 1200 grit you could rub on that neck for days and not remove alot of material so i dont think you need to worry too much.
PeteDuBaldo
Well-known member
jongitarz said:
Especially if it is moistened with oil/polish, etc. People who have enough skill can use it to wetsand out minor surface scratches. I'm not one of those people
OrangeChannel
Well-known member
AIght folks....I just oiled the PRB JP...waiting the obligatory 2 hours for dry time...shall wax it soon after...i'm guessing getting a lil oil (like a speck) on the finish is no big thing if i remove it quickly....if not oh well...
beej
Moderator
Just had at mine as well ... re-waxed the sealed Axis neck and gave my Luke the treatment- sanded the neck with 600/1500 grit, a coat or two of oil, and a nice waxing.
My first time doing this and was a little nervous- but wow, dead easy and does it ever make a difference. Soooooo sweet.
Guess I'll head back downstairs for what is sure to be an all-nighter or playing ...
My first time doing this and was a little nervous- but wow, dead easy and does it ever make a difference. Soooooo sweet.
Guess I'll head back downstairs for what is sure to be an all-nighter or playing ...
beej said:Just had at mine as well ... re-waxed the sealed Axis neck and gave my Luke the treatment- sanded the neck with 600/1500 grit, a coat or two of oil, and a nice waxing.
My first time doing this and was a little nervous- but wow, dead easy and does it ever make a difference. Soooooo sweet.
Guess I'll head back downstairs for what is sure to be an all-nighter or playing ...
I thought you weren't supposed to use oil on sealed necks? Didn't Jon say that? If he's sealed the neck with the glue/acetone treatment, you need only wax after that.
beej
Moderator
Yeah, that's right. The Axis is sealed (though it's still new news to me!) so I just added more wax to the back of the neck w/o oil or sanding. The luke wasn't sealed, so it got both oil and wax.
