Help! Problems about the floating bridge of JP6 BFR

[jovi_bw]

Hi everyone,

I just buy a JP6 BFR, this is my second one.

I found my new(preowned) JP6 BFR that the floating bridge is very tight,
for my 1st BFR, I do play a vibrato effect by "hitting" the tremolo bar but this new BFR cannot do that as the bridge is really tight.....

I already replaced the 3 original springs, but seems no difference,
is there anyone have an idea?
Thanks

 

[jovi_bw]

Is there anybody got the same problem or can help me please?

 

[rutgart]

Can you take it into the shop you brought it from and have them look at it ?

It sounds like a strange problem to be having !!

 

[Lou]

Are you trying to do a flutter effect? The JP should have no problem handling that. :42 of this video

John Petrucci Under a Glass Moon Solo - YouTube

 

[jovi_bw]

Yes yes, I mean the flutter effect!
I can do it with my JP BFR Walnut burst!

Any experience jp player can give me some tips on setting please?

 

[PeteDuBaldo]

Make sure the bridge isn't adjusted/screwed too low into the cavity - the leading edge of the tremolo may be contacting the body instead of just the 2 posts, and this could cause the symptom you describe.

 

[jovi_bw]

If the saddle set too close to the fingerboard, will it be affected the tightness of floating bridge?

 

[DrKev]

No, not the saddles, the two big studs on the top of the guitar that the bridge pivots on, one on either side of the front of the bridge.

Pete, is the JP usually set up with 3 springs? Isn't the Luke usually just 2?

 

[PeteDuBaldo]

The JP was factory set up with 3 springs for years (+decade) until recently when the factory switched to 2 springs in an angled format like on the LUKE. This change may have coincided with either the launch of the JP13 or JP himself switching to lighter strings

 

[jovi_bw]

No, not the saddles, the two big studs on the top of the guitar that the bridge pivots on, one on either side of the front of the bridge.

Pete, is the JP usually set up with 3 springs? Isn't the Luke usually just 2?

OK i mean if i set the two big studs too low, will it affect the motion of flutter effect?

 

[ksandvik]

No I don't think so, it's the angle of the tremolo that makes the bridge floating. And the angle depends on the two screws that connects the springs to the body underneath.

 

[PeteDuBaldo]

OK i mean if i set the two big studs too low, will it affect the motion of flutter effect?

My recommendation since this is getting a bit involved is to take it to an EBMM dealer or contact customer service toll free in the USA at 866-823-2255

In a direct answer,

Yes, if the two big studs are set too low then the underside of the tremolo baseplate may contact the body of the guitar (at the leading edge of the tremolo) and this would greatly reduce and could even eliminate the ability of the tremolo to flutter.

The baseplate of the tremolo should be set up so it is parallel with the top face of the guitar, both side to side, and front to back. You would need to adjust the height of the posts to set the height in front and side to side, and then adjust spring tension to set it parallel from front to back.

The plate should also be set either at or just above the top surface of the guitar body. They are typically set up from the factory slightly above the surface (the one here is just about 1/32" above).

Once the plate height is set & balanced, the truss should be checked for proper neck relief, then the saddles can be adjusted & matched to the radius of the fretboard, and additionally set the final action.


---
This is a common scenario that I see at the shop when someone has lowered/slammed the action by adjusting the mounting posts so much that the tremolo actually contacts the top surface of the guitar, then moves back & rides on the taper of the post instead of on the center groove. Properly setting the post height and then lowering the action by truss & saddle adjustments frees things up and restores balance to the world!

 

[PeteDuBaldo]

You can see how the plate is barely above the surface of the guitar in the photo below. Factory setup on a JP6

Sent using Tapatalk

 

[Lou]

Pete speaks the truth. i have the baseplate on all of mine as described

 

[jovi_bw]

Pete, thanks for your recommendation!
The guitar is not on hand right now and sitting in my studio.
I will check it and take some photos on the coming Saturday.

I will report about the issue after I check it!

Thanks everyone!

 

[jovi_bw]

This is my cherryburst bfr situation

 

[jovi_bw]

And here is the 1st generation JP6 Egyptian smoke and BFR JP6 Koa top

Both of them can do the flutter effect.
And the baseplate were almost the same level as the guitar body

 

[PeteDuBaldo]

I would email MusicMan customer service through this link, they can direct you further

Music Man Customer Service

 

[jovi_bw]

Hi Pete,

Actually I already email to musicman and here is the reply below:

Thank You for playing Music Man!

Unfortunately we cannot provide a remote diagnosis. We encourage you to
have it seen by a qualified tech who can compare the setup to your other
JP. Please Note: We are not responsible for improperly performed
setups/repairs.

Take Care,
John Quinn

 

[jacob.rocha]

Jovi,

If I follow correctly, it's the Cherry burst BFR JP that you're having trouble achieving the flutter effect with...

The bridge on this guitar, along with your Egyptian Smoke JP, look like they could have their pivot screws raised up a half-turn (left), then leveled- they shouldn't be "pitched-up" like they are now. Also here's one thing to note:

String gauges on JP models have changed sporadically throughout the years (always per JP's request)- Last year, they were shipped out with 10's, which required 3 springs in the trem cavity. This year, we've switched back to 9's, which requires 2 springs in a "V" shape, with the trem claw tightened to the point where it's about a 1/2 inch away from the trem cavity wall. Bottom line is, if you're using any strings lighter than 10-46 gauge, use 2 springs:



I definitely recommend setting the guitar up to our factory specs:

1. Adjust action via truss rod (fret the 1st and 15th, and there should be about a the width of a business card between the top of the 7th fret and the bottom of the string, maybe less.)
2. Level the bridge
3. Set ALL saddle heights at 2/32" from the top of the 12th fret to the bottom of the string.
4. Intonate

TUNE UP between each step. After following these steps, go back and do them all over again- steps 2-5 can add relief to the neck.