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paranoid70

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Feb 9, 2007
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Long Beach, CA
I'm working on a stain now. As I told the guy at the paint store (long time guitarist who was very scared that I was doing this :D), if I don't like it, I can always sand it down again and start over. The body appears to be a one piece, which is surprising to me. The poplar isn't absorbing the stain much at all, so we'll see.


jack

I never really thought that poplar was a 'stainable' wood. I have used it for trim/mouldings around the house. It's a very solid hard wood, but I perferred to use paint rather than stain.
 

NorM

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Apr 18, 2003
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Tucson
I'm working on a stain now. As I told the guy at the paint store (long time guitarist who was very scared that I was doing this :D), if I don't like it, I can always sand it down again and start over. The body appears to be a one piece, which is surprising to me. The poplar isn't absorbing the stain much at all, so we'll see.

The plan for the neck is to go natural but with a bit of a different treatment up at the headstock in order to not touch the lettering on the front or the SN sticker on the back.

jack
Just a passing thought:
Finish with the oil and wax treatment that is used for the necks.

Please remember that I am an idiot and not to be paid attention to.
I never really thought that poplar was a 'stainable' wood. I have used it for trim/mouldings around the house. It's a very solid hard wood, but I perferred to use paint rather than stain.
All blueburst morses are stained poplar.
 

Dizzy

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Perth, Western Australia
Nice one Jack !

With the original Sub finish still on the edges, it's starting to remind me of Luke's BFR proto with the solid colour on the edges, and amber(ish) quilt top.

Could be an idea for the final finish ?
 

Jack FFR1846

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Feb 17, 2008
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Hopkinton, MA
I never really thought that poplar was a 'stainable' wood. I have used it for trim/mouldings around the house. It's a very solid hard wood, but I perferred to use paint rather than stain.

......as I'm realizing. I'm going to use the stained base as a very light base and work up from there after it's evened out (I've done some sanding) and do have some ideas I'm going to try.

On to the neck! While coats are drying on the body, I need to work some more.

16-1.jpg


I tape the tuners before removing them. I don't want to have to figure out if it matters or not where they go. :D

17.jpg

18-1.jpg


Getting some protection on before sanding begins.

20-1.jpg


The finished sanding. Paint came off with 220 and sanding sponge along the edge of the headstock and by hand on the rest of the neck. The edge of the rosewood fingerboard was somewhat hit with the sponge and 600 grit. I did not get all the paint and there is some oversprayed onto the board. It's at a point that I really, really have to be looking for spots I missed. I'm happy with it.

21-1.jpg


First coat of water based Urathane. I've worked with this on oak stairs and other oak stuff and really like it. It's a bit foggy colored on the black headstock area but that'll clear as it cures. I did only one face and the sides in this coat to avoid drips. I'll flip it in the morning and do the face and sides again. I located the line between finish/no finish copying how my supersport is done. This should give me a nice shiny face once done.

jack
 
Last edited:

GWDavis28

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Jun 23, 2003
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Mass
Wow Jack you are really going to town on that man, EXCELLENT!!!!!!!!!

Glenn |B)
 

Jack FFR1846

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So a question.......

It's been suggested to me that paint on the back of the neck will reduce sustain and that I should sand it off. Any opinions? I can go either way....easy enough to remove it.

jack
 

azazael

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Jun 2, 2007
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Scotland
I had asked a local builder about stripping the poly off of one of my G&L's after falling in love with the unfinished neck of my Axis. He said there's always a risk of warpage, but that if I kept the ends (headstock and heel) finished, I'd minimize the risk of invasive moisture. He explained that the grain lengthwise is relatively impervious to moisture but the ends suck up moisture like tiny little straws. I can't confirm how accurate this info is but it seems to make sense. Then again, it doesn't look like my Axis is finished on the heel end of the neck. I'd leave the finish on there since I doubt you'd notice any tonal differences without it.

BTW - the body contours look GREAT. Nice job, Jack!

Treating it with gunstock oil and wax should prevent the moisture issue i imagine?
 

MusicManJP6

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Jan 31, 2007
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Greenville, SC
Jack, this looks so awesome! You've done a mighty fine job so far. I'm glad I didn't buy it from you now! I'm really interested to see what else you do with her! It's looking really really good, well thought out, and professional. Love the new body contours and the unfinished neck is going to feel awesome! If it were me I would try to round off all the body edges so it approaches a Luke's shape but still retained a bit of edge.

Keep up the good work and keep us updated on your progress!!
 

Jack FFR1846

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Feb 17, 2008
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Location
Hopkinton, MA
Jack, this looks so awesome! You've done a mighty fine job so far. I'm glad I didn't buy it from you now! I'm really interested to see what else you do with her! It's looking really really good, well thought out, and professional. Love the new body contours and the unfinished neck is going to feel awesome! If it were me I would try to round off all the body edges so it approaches a Luke's shape but still retained a bit of edge.

Keep up the good work and keep us updated on your progress!!

........jack decides to go check out a Luke on the way home to see what this is all about........

jack
 

NorM

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Apr 18, 2003
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Tucson
Oil and Wax baby. That's
Where it's at.
Got 2 turntables and a microphone.
 
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