Question: I discovered something while doing a tremolo set up.

[jazzyitalian]

So I own a 98 Axis Sport with the traditional EB trem bridge. While putting on new heavier gauge strings (I replaced the .09/.50 to .11/.52) I noticed the bridge lifted. This I've encountered before when putting on heavier gauges.

I removed the rectangular plastic cover to get to the springs. I was originally going to add another spring to increase the tension. (There was already three on there). But I decided this time to tighten the screws that connected the top side of the spring bracket to the body. That would also create more tension as it would stretch out the springs slightly to in turn, pull the bridge back down flat against the body. And it did just that.

But this time, I decided to leave a little bit of lift on the back of the bridge so that I can push down on the back of bridge with my palm and thus increase the pitch by 1/2 step. It's kind of a cool discovery I made. (Idiot Savant) So now instead of pitching down only, the guitar can pitch down and up. My Axis Sport seems to be able to keep itself in tune with the lift.

My question is whether what I did was alright to do, or if this is not advisable? Anyone have thoughts?

 

[racerx]

Yep it’s okay and the Luke Is configured in a similar fashion. “Floating” trem

 

[DrKev]

Yes, it's absolutely totally OK and a common way to setup a bridge. I set all my bridges with a 3 mm (1/8") gap behind the bridge.

 

[jayjayjay]

Most strat trems are configured to float from the factory (mine was), exactly for the reason you mentioned - it allows you to bend up as well as down. You can also do cool effects like a "flutter" trem, where you basically flick the trem arm and get a short warble sound (Steve Lukather - the Luke is his signature model - regularly uses that effect in solos). That can't be done without a floating setup.

Be aware that it makes tuning a little more tricky. The string tension is balanced out only by the trem springs rather than interaction with the guitar body. As a result, changing the tune on any one string has an impact on the tuning of the rest, with the bass strings, which have a greater tension, having the greatest impact. So, detuning your low E (like going to a drop D) causes the countering force of the trem springs to be redistributed on the remaining strings, pulling them all sharp. When you detune the rest to compensate, the low E will have been pulled back sharp a tad. Likewise, tuning a string up will cause the remaining springs to go a little flat.

What this means is that tuning can be an iterative process. If you start at the bass and tune up, you'll find the instrument is still out of tune and you'll have to cycle back through again, especially if you had to tune up more than a few cents. You may need to do this multiple times if the instrument was severely out. One strategy to go faster is to start with the middle strings and work outwards, e.g. tune the D, then G, then A, then B, then low E, then high E. When you tune each string, you'll also learn to overshoot a tad to compensate (e.g. if the low E is flat, you'll actually tune it a hair sharp, knowing that it will drop down to pitch when the remaining strings are tuned down slightly in response, and vice versa).

Also be aware that once you have the bridge floating where you want, any change of string gauge will necessitate a readjustment of the trem springs to get the bridge to float at the same height, as string gauge determines overall tension. Going to lighter strings will cause the bridge to sit lower to the body, as the springs will exert a greater force compared to string tension. Conversely, going to heavier strings will cause the bridge to pull higher from the body, as the springs will exert a lesser force compared to the strings. For that matter, even changing string brands or type within the same gauge may require a readjustment, as strings of a given gauge can vary in tension depending on materials and winding.

Finally, you'll find that string bends take a little more work, as the bridge will dive in response to pulling up. Also, doing a string bend while other strings are sounding will make the remaining strings go flat as the bridge dives, until you release the bend.

 

[jazzyitalian]

Most strat trems are configured to float from the factory (mine was), exactly for the reason you mentioned - it allows you to bend up as well as down. You can also do cool effects like a "flutter" trem, where you basically flick the trem arm and get a short warble sound (Steve Lukather - the Luke is his signature model - regularly uses that effect in solos). That can't be done without a floating setup.

Be aware that it makes tuning a little more tricky. The string tension is balanced out only by the trem springs rather than interaction with the guitar body. As a result, changing the tune on any one string has an impact on the tuning of the rest, with the bass strings, which have a greater tension, having the greatest impact. So, detuning your low E (like going to a drop D) causes the countering force of the trem springs to be redistributed on the remaining strings, pulling them all sharp. When you detune the rest to compensate, the low E will have been pulled back sharp a tad. Likewise, tuning a string up will cause the remaining springs to go a little flat.

What this means is that tuning can be an iterative process. If you start at the bass and tune up, you'll find the instrument is still out of tune and you'll have to cycle back through again, especially if you had to tune up more than a few cents. You may need to do this multiple times if the instrument was severely out. One strategy to go faster is to start with the middle strings and work outwards, e.g. tune the D, then G, then A, then B, then low E, then high E. When you tune each string, you'll also learn to overshoot a tad to compensate (e.g. if the low E is flat, you'll actually tune it a hair sharp, knowing that it will drop down to pitch when the remaining strings are tuned down slightly in response, and vice versa).

Also be aware that once you have the bridge floating where you want, any change of string gauge will necessitate a readjustment of the trem springs to get the bridge to float at the same height, as string gauge determines overall tension. Going to lighter strings will cause the bridge to sit lower to the body, as the springs will exert a greater force compared to string tension. Conversely, going to heavier strings will cause the bridge to pull higher from the body, as the springs will exert a lesser force compared to the strings. For that matter, even changing string brands or type within the same gauge may require a readjustment, as strings of a given gauge can vary in tension depending on materials and winding.

Finally, you'll find that string bends take a little more work, as the bridge will dive in response to pulling up. Also, doing a string bend while other strings are sounding will make the remaining strings go flat as the bridge dives, until you release the bend.

I've experienced it all since doing this and quickly discovered that tuning issues are more prevalent and difficult when you let the bridge sit up higher. It's frustrating. So I'm only going to leave it at a 1/16th inch (roughly) and call it a day. I have a Paul Reed Smith Standard with an actual floating bridge I can turn to when I feel the need to warble....