mikeller
Well-known member
I always get confused on this - if I am getting some slight buzzes and a choke out in the upper (say 12 and above) frets, is that a possible indication of too much or too little relief? TIA
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Jack FFR1846
Well-known member
From the EBMM FAQ's:
Q: How do I setup my Music Man Axis SuperSport?
A: First, check relief in the neck by holding the lowest (bass) string down on the second fret with your fretting hand, then hold it down on the 12th fret with your right thumb and tap on the string in the middle to show how straight the string is. It should be no more than the thickness of a thick business card. If there is no relief in the neck, applying a little pressure in the middle of the neck (downward) after adjusting the trussrod wheel should take care of it. If not, please contact us as it may be necessary to send the instrument in to the factory.
Factory string setting for standard tuning starts at the bass side 2/32" (0.0254m) to 5/64" (0.127m) and the treble side is 3/64" (0.0762m) to 2/32" (.0254m) measured from the 12th fret to the bottom of the strings. The top of the strings should have the radius of the fretboard when you are looking at the strings in the playing position and by rotating the instrument while at the same time bringing strings into view one at a time. Remember, string height is ultimately determined by your preference and playing style.
Now, you are ready to play your guitar. If a string buzzes on an open string to the 5th fret and no higher, more relief is needed. If there is more buzz from the 5th to the 12th fret, the neck needs to be straighter. You should check the string height after every adjustment. If the buzzing happens throughout the neck, the string height needs to be increased.
Experiment a little to get the exact action you want.
http://www.ernieball.com/faq_content.php?subjectcode=mm_guitars
jack
Q: How do I setup my Music Man Axis SuperSport?
A: First, check relief in the neck by holding the lowest (bass) string down on the second fret with your fretting hand, then hold it down on the 12th fret with your right thumb and tap on the string in the middle to show how straight the string is. It should be no more than the thickness of a thick business card. If there is no relief in the neck, applying a little pressure in the middle of the neck (downward) after adjusting the trussrod wheel should take care of it. If not, please contact us as it may be necessary to send the instrument in to the factory.
Factory string setting for standard tuning starts at the bass side 2/32" (0.0254m) to 5/64" (0.127m) and the treble side is 3/64" (0.0762m) to 2/32" (.0254m) measured from the 12th fret to the bottom of the strings. The top of the strings should have the radius of the fretboard when you are looking at the strings in the playing position and by rotating the instrument while at the same time bringing strings into view one at a time. Remember, string height is ultimately determined by your preference and playing style.
Now, you are ready to play your guitar. If a string buzzes on an open string to the 5th fret and no higher, more relief is needed. If there is more buzz from the 5th to the 12th fret, the neck needs to be straighter. You should check the string height after every adjustment. If the buzzing happens throughout the neck, the string height needs to be increased.
Experiment a little to get the exact action you want.
http://www.ernieball.com/faq_content.php?subjectcode=mm_guitars
jack
TNT
Well-known member
Yes, you may want "more" relief.
However, if I may add: IMO, relief isn't the answer in most cases.
In fact a "straight neck" set up is always the goal. i.e., trem, saddle, neck, nut, adj. etc. . .
Relief should ONLY be used as a last resort and very, very little!
However, if I may add: IMO, relief isn't the answer in most cases.
In fact a "straight neck" set up is always the goal. i.e., trem, saddle, neck, nut, adj. etc. . .
Relief should ONLY be used as a last resort and very, very little!
beej
Moderator
Yep. If you're getting a lot of buzzing in the upper register you likely need to raise the saddles. If the buzz is on the lower frets then the truss rod should fix it.
That said, once you get it setup where you like it you shouldn't have to mess with the bridge/saddle height again. Only minor truss rod tweaks are needed to compensate for humidity changes throughout the year.
mikeller
Well-known member
Here is the deal - my new silhouette special has a slight choke issue on the B string if I bend the D note on the 15th fret up to an E.
As I say this, I will add - all 4 of my EBMM guitars are set up with approx 4/64 between the 12th fret and the bottom of the string. BUT, this one feels higher for some reason. Not excessively higher, but higher just the same. I have set the relief for appox .010" using a feeler gauge. I think everything is a-ok, it just feels like the strings are further from the neck and it does have ONE choke problem. It really doesn't choke out, but it is isn't clear as it should be.
I was wondering if I had the truss tweaked wrong...perhaps its just a bit of a high fret. The guitar is 10 years old, but I was told by the original owner, never played. Looking at it confirms that...
I think I will delightfully just play the snot out of it and it will be fine
Thanks guys
As I say this, I will add - all 4 of my EBMM guitars are set up with approx 4/64 between the 12th fret and the bottom of the string. BUT, this one feels higher for some reason. Not excessively higher, but higher just the same. I have set the relief for appox .010" using a feeler gauge. I think everything is a-ok, it just feels like the strings are further from the neck and it does have ONE choke problem. It really doesn't choke out, but it is isn't clear as it should be.
I was wondering if I had the truss tweaked wrong...perhaps its just a bit of a high fret. The guitar is 10 years old, but I was told by the original owner, never played. Looking at it confirms that...
I think I will delightfully just play the snot out of it and it will be fine
Thanks guys
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