Hi there all!
I used to lurk here years ago back when I both coveted JP models and then when I was lucky enough to have some for myself.
I sold all my guitar gear (big regret) a fair few years back to move country, but I have finally been able to get an EBMM once again.
I went through many of the Petrucci models back in the day, so naturally I came back to his line. This time I was lucky enough to get one of the limited Crystal Amethyst Majesty 7s. Boy is it a beaut!
It’s great to have an instrument like this in my hands again.
BUT, it has not been a smooth acquisition so I do have some questions that I’m hoping you guys could answer;
1. Tuning stability -
Of the models I had in the past, a couple were new but I don’t remember tuning being this problematic.
Looking on the forum here it‘s not uncommon to see this issue being brought up. Am I correct in saying that the most common culprit seems to be the nut condition from the factory?
In my case, it’s seems like more of a hassle to tune the guitar up compared to whats typical of a non-locking floating trem guitar. When I get it there and proceed to play it, more than one string will immediately go out significantly.
At first I thought the trem was the issue since it’s an issue with most, if not all the strings. Especially since using the trem will affect the tuning more than usual on a non-locking trem system.
However, I‘m thinking is in fact the nut for a couple of reasons. First, when tuning the guitar, the tuning doesn’t seem to move up and down smoothly on the tuner screen. The movement seems to reflect some amount of snag happening, which would be reasonable cause for the difficulty I seem to be have when trying to get it to settle.
Second, when I changed strings and lubed the nut, I noticed some of the slots looked pale, as if there was residue there. I think I can see the same in the compensated parts too.
I did change the string gauge to 9-52 but the instability was there before the change and set up.
I also lightly lubed the saddles and the bridge posts. When I did the posts, I did notice that the contact points looked scored, but I’m not sure if thats just the expected result of the paint coming off through use or not.
Do you guys have any advice for things I could do myself?
I’m thinking of cleaning the nut and trying out nut sauce instead of my usual vaseline, but I’m not sure what cleaning method is best if there is some stubborn residue.
2. Fit and finish expectations -
The guitar is mostly great. On the front, there is a white imperfection in the clear coat in the corner where the fretboard meets the body and the aforementioned dirty nut.
My biggest surprised was once I lifted the trem cavity backplate.
I don’t know if this was the case or not but it looks like the backplate was attached before the clear coat properly cured as the texture of the backplate has imprinted into the clear coat around the fixture points. Edit: though I’m sure the inside of the backplate isn‘t textured so I’m not sure.
Aside from that, the cavity itself is a little dirty and has what seems to be damage from installing the hardware.
Is that typical condition from factory usually seen on guitars these days?
It’s a real bummer to be honest. Yeah it doesn’t affect playability or tone of course but, it is a flagship $6000 guitar. I don’t remember it being that way with past models that I bought new and they were regular production models. I will confess that I don’t have the best memory though.
I don’t have pictures to hand right now, but I can upload some later.
3. Gloss neck -
It looks gorgeous! But unfortunately, my hands still struggle with gloss stickiness. Any tips? I really wouldn’t want to take 0000 wool to this neck. I read somewhere that Maddi puts/ did put fingerease on the back of the neck as well as the strings for John. Anyone hear of that?
4. 9-52 and number of springs -
So as mentioned, I did change to a lighter gauge. I removed one spring but I guess my tastes have changed and I’m not really enjoying how light the bridge feels. Anyone running 9’s with 3 springs on the 7 stringers? I did attempt 3 springs but after making the necessary adjustment, it seemed like there was very little tension in the springs. 2 springs is perhaps the only way?
Anyway, it’s unfortunate that it hasn’t been all smiles and I’m not really sure what I want to do considering all the above. Given the value and exclusivity, I was expecting a light set up would only be needed.
I at least want to make it playable though, so any insight into the tuning issues would be appreciated!
If I want to keep it but it won’t just settle then I know I will have to send it back to the shop for nut work or whatever the cause may be. However the dealer is a flight away so I’m hoping to resolve the tuning myself.
To end on a positive note, it sounds awesome. Massive with a JP2C capture!
I used to lurk here years ago back when I both coveted JP models and then when I was lucky enough to have some for myself.
I sold all my guitar gear (big regret) a fair few years back to move country, but I have finally been able to get an EBMM once again.
I went through many of the Petrucci models back in the day, so naturally I came back to his line. This time I was lucky enough to get one of the limited Crystal Amethyst Majesty 7s. Boy is it a beaut!
It’s great to have an instrument like this in my hands again.
BUT, it has not been a smooth acquisition so I do have some questions that I’m hoping you guys could answer;
1. Tuning stability -
Of the models I had in the past, a couple were new but I don’t remember tuning being this problematic.
Looking on the forum here it‘s not uncommon to see this issue being brought up. Am I correct in saying that the most common culprit seems to be the nut condition from the factory?
In my case, it’s seems like more of a hassle to tune the guitar up compared to whats typical of a non-locking floating trem guitar. When I get it there and proceed to play it, more than one string will immediately go out significantly.
At first I thought the trem was the issue since it’s an issue with most, if not all the strings. Especially since using the trem will affect the tuning more than usual on a non-locking trem system.
However, I‘m thinking is in fact the nut for a couple of reasons. First, when tuning the guitar, the tuning doesn’t seem to move up and down smoothly on the tuner screen. The movement seems to reflect some amount of snag happening, which would be reasonable cause for the difficulty I seem to be have when trying to get it to settle.
Second, when I changed strings and lubed the nut, I noticed some of the slots looked pale, as if there was residue there. I think I can see the same in the compensated parts too.
I did change the string gauge to 9-52 but the instability was there before the change and set up.
I also lightly lubed the saddles and the bridge posts. When I did the posts, I did notice that the contact points looked scored, but I’m not sure if thats just the expected result of the paint coming off through use or not.
Do you guys have any advice for things I could do myself?
I’m thinking of cleaning the nut and trying out nut sauce instead of my usual vaseline, but I’m not sure what cleaning method is best if there is some stubborn residue.
2. Fit and finish expectations -
The guitar is mostly great. On the front, there is a white imperfection in the clear coat in the corner where the fretboard meets the body and the aforementioned dirty nut.
My biggest surprised was once I lifted the trem cavity backplate.
I don’t know if this was the case or not but it looks like the backplate was attached before the clear coat properly cured as the texture of the backplate has imprinted into the clear coat around the fixture points. Edit: though I’m sure the inside of the backplate isn‘t textured so I’m not sure.
Aside from that, the cavity itself is a little dirty and has what seems to be damage from installing the hardware.
Is that typical condition from factory usually seen on guitars these days?
It’s a real bummer to be honest. Yeah it doesn’t affect playability or tone of course but, it is a flagship $6000 guitar. I don’t remember it being that way with past models that I bought new and they were regular production models. I will confess that I don’t have the best memory though.
I don’t have pictures to hand right now, but I can upload some later.
3. Gloss neck -
It looks gorgeous! But unfortunately, my hands still struggle with gloss stickiness. Any tips? I really wouldn’t want to take 0000 wool to this neck. I read somewhere that Maddi puts/ did put fingerease on the back of the neck as well as the strings for John. Anyone hear of that?
4. 9-52 and number of springs -
So as mentioned, I did change to a lighter gauge. I removed one spring but I guess my tastes have changed and I’m not really enjoying how light the bridge feels. Anyone running 9’s with 3 springs on the 7 stringers? I did attempt 3 springs but after making the necessary adjustment, it seemed like there was very little tension in the springs. 2 springs is perhaps the only way?
Anyway, it’s unfortunate that it hasn’t been all smiles and I’m not really sure what I want to do considering all the above. Given the value and exclusivity, I was expecting a light set up would only be needed.
I at least want to make it playable though, so any insight into the tuning issues would be appreciated!
If I want to keep it but it won’t just settle then I know I will have to send it back to the shop for nut work or whatever the cause may be. However the dealer is a flight away so I’m hoping to resolve the tuning myself.
To end on a positive note, it sounds awesome. Massive with a JP2C capture!
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