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mikeller

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I have a SS with the (vintage style trem) bridge floating, probably about 1/16". Problem is, when I choke, other strings detune, which bothers me, plus, sometimes I can hear the bridge thump against the body.

Is there any sonic consequences (ie does it sound worse) by not floating the bridge, and or would 5 springs help?

Thanks!!!!
 

beej

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Normally that trem is set up flush on the body, not floating. The factory setup is 3 springs with Super Slinkys (9s). So I'd say you're plenty good to not float the trem ;)
 

TNT

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. . . . .I have a SS with the (vintage style trem) bridge floating . . . .

MK,
Ideally you want the trem plate coming to rest on the body with a tiny thud. This assures resonance and tuning stability.

Here are some tips on Floyd Rose style trem's that can give you some insight on all tremolo type bridges and help with application on all types.

More springs or heavier springs are not normally the way to remedy the problem you mentioned if there are other issues too (which there almost always is.)

If you encountered that problem say on the Axis, you would raise the action (bridge adjustment) so that the bridge is level (not tilting forward). The trem plate in the rear should also be resting on the body flush. *This is ideally where you always want to keep your tremolo, if at all possible, perfectly level. This assures proper "string" position in the saddle (prevents premature breakage, snagging, undue tension, etc. . . )

Now, you may say, "but the action is too high". Observe that FR trem bridges really only "tilt" forward when you lower the bridge using the bridge height screws. Although it does bring the action down a little, but notice that the string does not fully sit in the saddle when you do this, it begins to lift out of the saddle (this is not really good). Individual string saddles ideally should be machined to go straight up and down (thereby keeping the string firmly and comfortably IN the saddle.

Once the trem is level, you can increase/decrease string height (action) with: 1. Floyd Rose saddle shims and/or 2. angle the neck using neck shims in the neck pocket. It takes a lot of time and some degree and skill to do this right, but in the long run it's worth it.

I personally ALWAYS leave my tremolo level with the guitar and flush on the body. And, I only adjust action using the 2 methods I described above (and with great success!!)

Remember, this is not unique to only EBMM guitars - it's more of a Floyd Rose thing. I hope this helps in some way.

 
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roburado

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To set up the bridge the way EBMM sets it up, you want to tighten the screws to which the trem claw is attached. How tight? Well, set it up so that the bridge is level with the face of the guitar. Now, assuming that your bridge height hasn't been altered, the bridge should be basically flat against the body. If it isn't, well, you're going to have to tighten the trem posts down so that the bridge is flat against the body. You also want to set it so that the space between the back end of the bridge and the body will hold a thin piece of notebook paper. This shouldn't have any marked consequences for your action. If you want to alter your action after that, the simplest way is to adjust the truss rod to give more relief or less relief. In general, there will be no need for shims in the neck pocket or under the saddles. AFAIK, EBMM doesn't shim anything in their set-ups.
 

mikeller

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Thanks for the replies - I think if I read this correctly, the whole bridge is setting up too high - see pictures.

I don't mind adjusting and re-setting the saddles. What bugs me is that I just spend $$$ not long getting a new bone nut and frets dressed etc. I think the bridge was ignored by the setup man....

bridge1.jpg


bridge2.jpg
 

roburado

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Yup. Your bridge looks like it is set up "too high." It probably did not come from the factory that way.

One of the best things that you can do for yourself is to learn how to set up your Balls yourself. That way you won't be taking the guitar to someone else and paying them money to screw up a set up. Just because they are getting paid to set up guitars, it doesn't mean that they will set up your guitar the way you want it done or the way the factory set up the guitar.
 

mikeller

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I was just looking at this very carefully and the back of the bridge is not floating as I thought it was - it is firmly resting on the body of the guitar. Problem is the front of the bride plate is setting too high and I think the claw needs tightened so that I don't get the de-tuning on chocking strings?

Thanks again
 
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