- Thread starter AnthonyD
- Start date
Rod Trussbroken
Moderator
>>>>when you 'tap' the strings when depressing at 1st and 12th fret, should the string be moving? when i do it, it doesn't move at all, well very little - should it be ringing at least a little bit? does this mean the truss rod should be loosened more?
>>>>you see, i'm not quite sure what you guys mean by 'movement'...
As the neck is adjusted straighter, the gap between the top of the 5th fret and bottom of the E string becomes smaller. Once straight, there is no gap for the string to be depressed further (ie no string movement).
You're now at the point to begin fine-tuning the truss rod. Getting the neck straight is merely the starting point for the truss rod adjustment.
>>>>the e-string starts buzzing from about 5th fret+ (higher) - thats with a fairly heavy touch, much harder than i usually play...
Once the neck is straight and you're getting buzz on some (or all strings) from the 5th frett up to the neck heel, then your strings are a tad low. Raise them slightly so the buzz disappears before going back to truss adjustment.
Remember to make the adjustments as to how you normally play the instrument.
>>>>If there is no movement at the 5th fret, then a bit more relief should be added unless you are not getting any fret buzz. The neck should be as level as you can get it without fret buzz.
Ditto what Jon says.
Once the neck is straight (as mentioned), check all strings for string buzz from the 1st up to the fifth fret. If no buzz, then the truss setting is right for you. If there is some buzz (on some or all strings) at the 1st five frets, begin adding relief by turning the truss wheel anti-clockwise (looking from the truss wheel up towards the headstock). Retune to pitch after each adjustment and check again. The correct relief is at the point where the buzz disappears. Adjust one hole back at a time.
That setting will be different for each player depending on playing touch...how heavy you dig in. The setting will change every now and then due to seasonal changes, humidity etc. But with the truss wheel, it can be re-adjusted (literally) within a few seconds. The Bass is now set up for "you". Someone else playing your Bass may think the action is too high or too low.
The correct setting for my touch turns out to be about paper thickness at the 5th while depressing the 1st and 12th. For some it may turn out to be card thickness or no gap at all. It depends on the particular instrument aswell. No two instruments are exactly the same. The gap distance may well end up being slightly different on another instrument owned by the same player.
In a nutshell:
1) Get the neck straight as described (starting point for truss adjustment). Come back to it latter.
2) Check for buzz from around the 5th fret up to the neck heel. Either raise (or lower) the strings so there's no buzz for your playing style.
3) Go down and check for buzz at the 1st five frets. If none, then all ok. If you have buzz in that area then the truss rod has to be fine tuned. Begin adding relief (turning anti-clockwise) untill buzz disappears. That is point of optimum truss adjustment for you. That setting varies depending on who's playing that instrument.
Easy hey
.
>>>>you see, i'm not quite sure what you guys mean by 'movement'...
As the neck is adjusted straighter, the gap between the top of the 5th fret and bottom of the E string becomes smaller. Once straight, there is no gap for the string to be depressed further (ie no string movement).
You're now at the point to begin fine-tuning the truss rod. Getting the neck straight is merely the starting point for the truss rod adjustment.
>>>>the e-string starts buzzing from about 5th fret+ (higher) - thats with a fairly heavy touch, much harder than i usually play...
Once the neck is straight and you're getting buzz on some (or all strings) from the 5th frett up to the neck heel, then your strings are a tad low. Raise them slightly so the buzz disappears before going back to truss adjustment.
Remember to make the adjustments as to how you normally play the instrument.
>>>>If there is no movement at the 5th fret, then a bit more relief should be added unless you are not getting any fret buzz. The neck should be as level as you can get it without fret buzz.
Ditto what Jon says.
Once the neck is straight (as mentioned), check all strings for string buzz from the 1st up to the fifth fret. If no buzz, then the truss setting is right for you. If there is some buzz (on some or all strings) at the 1st five frets, begin adding relief by turning the truss wheel anti-clockwise (looking from the truss wheel up towards the headstock). Retune to pitch after each adjustment and check again. The correct relief is at the point where the buzz disappears. Adjust one hole back at a time.
That setting will be different for each player depending on playing touch...how heavy you dig in. The setting will change every now and then due to seasonal changes, humidity etc. But with the truss wheel, it can be re-adjusted (literally) within a few seconds. The Bass is now set up for "you". Someone else playing your Bass may think the action is too high or too low.
The correct setting for my touch turns out to be about paper thickness at the 5th while depressing the 1st and 12th. For some it may turn out to be card thickness or no gap at all. It depends on the particular instrument aswell. No two instruments are exactly the same. The gap distance may well end up being slightly different on another instrument owned by the same player.
In a nutshell:
1) Get the neck straight as described (starting point for truss adjustment). Come back to it latter.
2) Check for buzz from around the 5th fret up to the neck heel. Either raise (or lower) the strings so there's no buzz for your playing style.
3) Go down and check for buzz at the 1st five frets. If none, then all ok. If you have buzz in that area then the truss rod has to be fine tuned. Begin adding relief (turning anti-clockwise) untill buzz disappears. That is point of optimum truss adjustment for you. That setting varies depending on who's playing that instrument.
Easy hey
.
bovinehost
Administrator
I'm so happy that we have moderators who are still willing to get involved in setup issues.
You rock, lads.
I just can't do it anymore. Is that so wrong?
You rock, lads.
I just can't do it anymore. Is that so wrong?
pattiejay
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 24, 2004
- Messages
- 268
...WOW...!Rod Trussbroken said:>>>>when you 'tap' the strings when depressing at 1st and 12th fret, should the string be moving? when i do it, it doesn't move at all, well very little - should it be ringing at least a little bit? does this mean the truss rod should be loosened more?
>>>>you see, i'm not quite sure what you guys mean by 'movement'...
As the neck is adjusted straighter, the gap between the top of the 5th fret and bottom of the E string becomes smaller. Once straight, there is no gap for the string to be depressed further (ie no string movement).
You're now at the point to begin fine-tuning the truss rod. Getting the neck straight is merely the starting point for the truss rod adjustment.
>>>>the e-string starts buzzing from about 5th fret+ (higher) - thats with a fairly heavy touch, much harder than i usually play...
Once the neck is straight and you're getting buzz on some (or all strings) from the 5th frett up to the neck heel, then your strings are a tad low. Raise them slightly so the buzz disappears before going back to truss adjustment.
Remember to make the adjustments as to how you normally play the instrument.
>>>>If there is no movement at the 5th fret, then a bit more relief should be added unless you are not getting any fret buzz. The neck should be as level as you can get it without fret buzz.
Ditto what Jon says.
Once the neck is straight (as mentioned), check all strings for string buzz from the 1st up to the fifth fret. If no buzz, then the truss setting is right for you. If there is some buzz (on some or all strings) at the 1st five frets, begin adding relief by turning the truss wheel anti-clockwise (looking from the truss wheel up towards the headstock). Retune to pitch after each adjustment and check again. The correct relief is at the point where the buzz disappears. Adjust one hole back at a time.
That setting will be different for each player depending on playing touch...how heavy you dig in. The setting will change every now and then due to seasonal changes, humidity etc. But with the truss wheel, it can be re-adjusted (literally) within a few seconds. The Bass is now set up for "you". Someone else playing your Bass may think the action is too high or too low.
The correct setting for my touch turns out to be about paper thickness at the 5th while depressing the 1st and 12th. For some it may turn out to be card thickness or no gap at all. It depends on the particular instrument aswell. No two instruments are exactly the same. The gap distance may well end up being slightly different on another instrument owned by the same player.
In a nutshell:
1) Get the neck straight as described (starting point for truss adjustment). Come back to it latter.
2) Check for buzz from around the 5th fret up to the neck heel. Either raise (or lower) the strings so there's no buzz for your playing style.
3) Go down and check for buzz at the 1st five frets. If none, then all ok. If you have buzz in that area then the truss rod has to be fine tuned. Begin adding relief (turning anti-clockwise) untill buzz disappears. That is point of optimum truss adjustment for you. That setting varies depending on who's playing that instrument.
Easy hey
.
you gus rock....
sandaas
Well-known member
jongitarz said:
LOL
Think we definately need more chicks on this forum . .
favolos80
Active member
Rod Trussbroken,
this action setup is the same for a musicman guitar?
thanks
this action setup is the same for a musicman guitar?
thanks
