string action inquiry

[jasone]

I've read the EB Bass FAQ and learned that 3/32" at the 12th fret (top of fret to bottom of string) is considered in spec. How many of you have been able to get it down lower with virtually no fret buzz (especially on the E string)?

I know this can be dependent on various things, so if you can provide any info on how you were able to do it (lighter gauge string, professional setup, didn't do anything special, etc.), let me know.

Thanks, Jason

 

[maddog]

I was able to get my old Bongo4 H/SC down to about 1/16" using a non EB brand of strings. Haven't dinked around with EB strings but got some PowerSlinkys on order to give a go. Can report back if interested but gonna be a couple more weeks before I get them in.

 

[dlloyd]

I've read the EB Bass FAQ and learned that 3/32" at the 12th fret (top of fret to bottom of string) is considered in spec. How many of you have been able to get it down lower with virtually no fret buzz (especially on the E string)?

I know this can be dependent on various things, so if you can provide any info on how you were able to do it (lighter gauge string, professional setup, didn't do anything special, etc.), let me know.

Thanks, Jason

A heavier gauge string allows you to take it lower. That and a lighter right hand technique.

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

2/32" (1/16) with roundwounds 45,65,85 & 105 (sometimes 110 for the E string). Straight neck with paper thick relief and playing with a pick.

Not a prob

 

[Golem]

I can get various EBMMs and other basses of similar quality way down there. Just normal set up procedures. If you are going for negligible relief, be aware that there is a buzz that can occur on the nonspeaking length of the string [between fretted note and nut]. This is not going into the PUs but is very noticeable [acoustically] during setup sessions and quiet practice. Just ignore it. On an acoustic with piezos as the main PUs you'd have a problem, but not on a regular electric bass.

The buzz I'm describing occurs only when the nonspeaking section has some length to it, IOW it can't occur in or near 1st position notes. OTOH, If you get buzz in 1st position, it's regular buzz and needs to be minimized. If your action is extra low, be careful not to pull back on the neck while playing, as it will flex enuf to go into a backbow condition.

Keep the plane of the FB perpendicular to the floor. If you tip the FB up so you can see the face and strings, the strings will sag a bit, by their own weight, toward the frets. This only matters in a really low action setup. It's one of my indicators for setting up low action by ear rather than by measurments: If it buzzes played flat on my lap [like a lap steel position] but buzz is gone in playing position, then that's the low limit for action with that combination of ax and strings in question.

Another test is that if it's OK in playing position but buzzes if I intentionally pull back slightly on the neck [using my fretting hand to pull back]. Be aware that you will get more buzz picking on or near the neck than playing over the PUs.

 

[jasone]

I've had better luck getting the string action below 3/32" on basses that have graphite necks or denser woods (wenge for example). Do you suppose this is because of the resonant nature of these materials?

or

Is it mainly a fret-leveling thing...

 

[strummer]

My B's are 2,5 mm from the fret top @ 12:th fret, and the rest goes gradually down to about 1,7 mm for the G.
I just realized that it's not low, but it feels real low for me. I can have the strings a lot closer to the fret board, but I lose a lot of tone...

 

[Golem]

I've had better luck getting the string action below 3/32" on basses that have graphite necks or denser woods (wenge for example). Do you suppose this is because of the resonant nature of these materials?

or

Is it mainly a fret-leveling thing...

I'd think it's mainly careful fretwork and other workmanship concerning the neck. In a global view, since nearly all necks are maple, the general population of maple necks has only average workmanship. Stepping away from the default material to build a neck from graphite or wenge just shows that yhe builder is putting some care into his product, not just build-and-sell by-the-numbers, using default materials and designs, etc etc.

IOW, I think if you stick with basses whose hang tag price is at least $1200, you won't find much statistical difference between the maple, the graphite, the rare woods, etc in terms of workmanship.

It's well known that you can shop and find a 'wonder ax' at any price level. I'm only speaking in broad statistical trends about what quality the shopper will find and how rare or common best quality workmanship will be at certain price ranges. In any crapshoot you get more sevens than elevens.

 

[Figjam]

I can get it down that low. I use medium gauge (45 - 105) strings and little relief.

 

[onefootoneplay]

I can get it down that low. I use medium gauge (45 - 105) strings and little relief.

Gauge 45-105 is it the original gauge ?