Help! STV Goldie string buzz

[Grumblecakes]

Has anyone else had an issue with open string buzz on the Goldie model St. Vincent? After a string change my open D seems to be a bit loose in the nut slot, sort of like there isn't enough down force past the nut. I'm not super familiar with the compensated nut they use on these either.

This hadn't been an issue before and I'm kind of struggling to figure what actually changed to cause it. I went from the stock strings to what I'm *pretty* sure is an identical set as far the the gauge goes (10-13-17-26-36-46). I can get a little bit of the buzz out with some truss adjustment but it's not a 100% cure. Seems like there might be something obvious I'm overlooking

 

[DrKev]

Yes, the shallow angle from the D string (or G on non-reverse headstocks) can make cutting the nut slot a little tricky from time to time. But if there is a problem there it's often a sitar-like buzz of the open string, or resonance/ringing behind the nut. That's not what you're describing. So it's possibly the nut slot is a little too low, causing buzzing on the 1st fret.

Hold down the D-string between the 2nd and 3rd frets. Is there a gap over the 1st fret? Or is the D string touching it? If there is no clearance and the problem goes away if you play with capo on the 1st fret. It's the nut slot.

Call your store/Music Man dealer and/or Music Man customer service today.

Note: The compensated but is the same as any other nut, just a slightly different placement and dimension front to back, and different shape on the front edge. If you are have done some nut work before, this is no different. BUT if removing the existing nut, it has a locating pin that sits in a matching hole in the bottom of the slot, ensuring perfect side-to-side positioning. That means The nut has to come out straight up vertically, not sideways.

 

[Grumblecakes]

Yes, the shallow angle from the D string (or G on non-reverse headstocks) can make cutting the nut slot a little tricky from time to time. But if there is a problem there it's often a sitar-like buzz of the open string, or resonance/ringing behind the nut. That's not what you're describing. So it's possibly the nut slot is a little too low, causing buzzing on the 1st fret.

Hold down the D-string between the 2nd and 3rd frets. Is there a gap over the 1st fret? Or is the D string touching it? If there is no clearance and the problem goes away if you play with capo on the 1st fret. It's the nut slot.

Call your store/Music Man dealer and/or Music Man customer service today.

Note: The compensated but is the same as any other nut, just a slightly different placement and dimension front to back, and different shape on the front edge. If you are have done some nut work before, this is no different. BUT if removing the existing nut, it has a locating pin that sits in a matching hole in the bottom of the slot, ensuring perfect side-to-side positioning. That means The nut has to come out straight up vertically, not sideways.

Ah, thanks for the info!
So the issue I've been having is to do with a sympathetic resonance behind the nut. Just realized I wasn't super clear. The extra noise is for sure occuring behind the nut.

So fretting where you discribe there's maybe like .008mm of clearance between the string and the first fret. There's also more bow in the neck than I'd like too, about .55mm relief.

I messaged Music Man support as I bought direct but they didn't have much advise beyond adding wraps around the tuner, which didn't seem to help much.

 

[DrKev]

Ah, thanks for the info!
So the issue I've been having is to do with a sympathetic resonance behind the nut. Just realized I wasn't super clear. The extra noise is for sure occuring behind the nut.

OK. It's a rare issue but it can happen on any brand of guitar with long string run from the nut to the tuner (typically D and G strings of Fenders for example). Sometimes that will fix easily. Sometimes not. The right gauge nut file is the best tool, but even a piece of fine sandpaper folded tightly to be no wider than the slot could work, gently massaging of the string slot to have more downwards angle. Just avoid touching the front edge of the slot (because you do not want it much lower than it is).

So fretting where you discribe there's maybe like .008mm of clearance between the string and the first fret. There's also more bow in the neck than I'd like too, about .55mm relief.

For the nut that's perfect! (At least in my books). For relief, tighten the truss rod. About half that gap, or a little less, is a good place to shoot for (but won't change the nut issue).

I messaged Music Man support as I bought direct but they didn't have much advise beyond adding wraps around the tuner, which didn't seem to help much.

In that case your options are 1) Ask if you can send it back to them to fix and do a new setup if you are still in warranty. 2) Send it back to fix and setup at your cost out of warranty, 3) bring it to a luthier or tech near you to fix. Ask Music Man to send out a replacement nut before hand, just in case. 4) mute or damp the strings behind the nut, e.g. string dampers, fret wraps, hair elastics etc. Products exist for this because this kind of thing happens. Mandolin players use rubber grommets behind the bridge to dampen strings for this reason.

All About Guitar String Dampeners and Fret Wraps - Guitar Gear Finder

Find out what string dampeners and fret wraps are, how they can be used to clean up your tone, and why there's so much debate. Are you cheating if you use one?

guitargearfinder.com

 

[beej]

I have a few guitars with that issue on the g string. I just stick a small rubber grommet between the g and d strings behind the nut.

 

[Grumblecakes]

Thanks for the replies! I super appreciate it.

Sounds like for the moment a hair tie is the way to go, seems to work well enough. I'm probably a little more worried about it than I ought to be. I'm sort of hesitant to mess with the nut in a permanent way. Seems like it'd be a finicky job to replace as it seems like the too coat finish of the neck extends over the nut edges.

I think what's really been bugging me is just trying to figure what variable changed between string changes to cause the buzz. Seems like if the gauges are the same the results should be the same as well. Maybe it's just the climate right now.

 

[tbonesullivan]

I've been lucking to never really have experience this on guitar. Unfortunately I have a few F-brand basses, with their infamous open A string buzz when you really pluck hard. Which they claim isn't actually an issue, even though they literally make a special washer to put under the tuning peg nut that prevents it..