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dweezil

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Jun 18, 2016
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14
Hi I have a Super Sport with the current style trem. I think it's called the vintage term.

Any way I want to stixk some heavier strings on, 10s for example but I also want to have the trem flat to the body as never use it (don't need to dive bomb) and want to rest my hand on it without it moving down and raising the pitch of the strings.

So questions.

If I stick on the 2 extra springs will that work with 10s? i.e. will the trem be flat on the body?
Also if I currently press down on the back of the trem so its flat to the body, it's at a bit of an angle, should I lower the trem posts so that it's completely flat?

Thanks a million!
 

Johnny Alien

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Aug 16, 2006
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Harrisburg, PA USA
I use 3 springs on me Axis Sport and it is fairly stiff. I imagine that putting springs on it and then making sure the bridge is flat tot eh body should make it pretty well docked.
 

dweezil

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Jun 18, 2016
Messages
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I use 3 springs on me Axis Sport and it is fairly stiff. I imagine that putting springs on it and then making sure the bridge is flat tot eh body should make it pretty well docked.

So lower the term posts too so that it totally flat against body
 

dweezil

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Jun 18, 2016
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Yep. Tighten the claw if adding all springs won't get it all the way there

Thanks, I suppose I'll have to raise the strings too. Does anyone think lowering / flattening the trem will damage the top?

Lastly would it be Ok to put 11s on as opposed to 9s or 10s
 

DrKev

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Thanks, I suppose I'll have to raise the strings too. Does anyone think lowering / flattening the trem will damage the top?

I recommend not tightening the spring claw screws any more than you need to, i.e. just enough so that the trem does not move when you bend a string. (That may require an extra spring).

Lastly would it be Ok to put 11s on as opposed to 9s or 10s

Absolutely, though there is chance that the nut slots could be a little narrow for the bigger gauge strings, in which case it's an easy job for a guitar tech to widen them. That said many forum members switched to 11s without issue.

You will need a some truss rod adjutsment but that's not big deal. Just tighten the adjusting until neck relief returns to what it was before.
 

dweezil

Member
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Jun 18, 2016
Messages
14
I recommend not tightening the spring claw screws any more than you need to, i.e. just enough so that the trem does not move when you bend a string. (That may require an extra spring).

And do you think that lowering the term posts so the term is level flat with the body is ok?

I'll try 10s first and see how it goes.

Thanks for all your help!
 

beej

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Aug 16, 2004
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Your other option is to put something in the trem cavity. I've done this with a few Floyd-equiped guitars ... block of wood with double sided tape on the trem block. Then you can have the trem sit off the body, but still be set for dive only.
 

dweezil

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Jun 18, 2016
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Sorry what do you mean by double sided tape on trem block? Oh and don't want dive or otherise.
 

beej

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In the trem cavity, there's a space between the trem block and the wall of the cavity. If you thicken the trem block (by attaching something to one side - wood, plastic, whatever), it will make contact with the wall and prevent the trem from moving further.
 

dweezil

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Jun 18, 2016
Messages
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Is there an advantage to that approach? At the moment I have all the springs in and it's sitting flush on the body. But was thinking of putting 11s on next (the 10s are better than the 9s). I'm played fingerstlye on it and need heavier strings for alternative tuning and don't mind higher action to prevent buzzes etc

I suppose one good thing with the trem posts higher and the technique you're suggesting is the term would higher therefore there would be less fret buzz
 
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dweezil

Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2016
Messages
14
Hehe. At least I have the perfect excuse to buy a second axis, one without a trem

What size allen key should I use for the saddles as need to raise them a little ta

Thanks for putting up with all my questions
 
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