Question Tim Commerford Stingray Bridge Intonation Question and help - 2 questions

[MMSR4TCP]

Hi,

I have two technical questions that pertain to the Tim C MM Bridge with the string dampeners. So the bass arrived with the action quite high at the 12th fret slightly over 6.35mm. This would be considered an extremely high setup (high = 3.5mm). I prefer my action to be what is considered Low Med (2.15mm). So I went about adjusting everything. I'm good at doing this stuff. That being said i've never owned a MM Stingray before. I quickly discovered teh string mutes rally prevent any action lower than a Med setup 2.7mm (without modifications of the E string pad). The neck is perfect regarding relief etc.

Ok, I'll start at Medium. After adjusting the E and G then doing the radius for A and D, 100% I needed to re-intonate the bass. This was a significant drop from the 6.35mm. I was able to Intonate G-D-A..but not E. The E saddle binds with the bridge mounting nut.

The Two Issues and Questions

• The String Mute Pads Prevent me from dropping the E lower than 2.7mm (E only) the remaining strings and pads all have room. The E pad is no higher than any other string and they are all parked. - I'm looking for previous experience with these and if this is a normal thing.
• The E string Bridge Binds with the Bridge mounting screw. This is preventing the intonation of the E string. It binds then the screw will just come out.
  • Looking for experience here.

So I tried moving the A saddle out of the way E intonated, but then A binds. So on and so forth down the line to G binding with the other mounting nut. I cannot move any of them cockeyed, none of the saddles clear any of the others ,so relief from binding cannot happen this way.

It's apparent the delivered action set at 6.35mm (or 1/4") was purposeful to allow intonation from the factory. There is no way on earth that remotely resembles a factory specification.

Guidance would be great here

Here are some images.

E binding with the mounting nut.Just barely but its stops cold. No pressure can move it.
The Medium height relief *barely clearing the mute pad.


Thanks in advance everyone. This bass is amazing from a tone perspective with all the switching, tone, and boost options.

 

[tbonesullivan]

The bridge mounting nut shouldn't interfere with the travel of the E string saddle. It's probably more the spring on the adjustment screw that is compressing too much.

It sounds like the neck pocket may have settled and might need a shim now, or a different shim than the one it came with.

 

[MMSR4TCP]

The bridge mounting nut shouldn't interfere with the travel of the E string saddle. It's probably more the spring on the adjustment screw that is compressing too much.

It sounds like the neck pocket may have settled and might need a shim now, or a different shim than the one it came with.

No it is 100% the bridge nut When E is last to be intonated. Its also the G nut if it is the las to be intonated, or the A if it is last, same for the D.

Meaning: There literally isn't enough width for all the saddles between the two mounting nuts. The math doesn't work. There is less room between the two nuts ate the horizontal apex than the distance needed by 4 saddles. Now if one was offset (like when the action was at 1/4") everything fits.

The saddles are 74mm wide together
The distance between my two bridge nuts is 73.2 mm

My guess is: The powder-coat is 0.8mm too thick between the two mounting nut(s). Its hard enough to stop the saddle cold.

 

[racerx]

Since the bass is brand new, I'd chat with the customer service folks first to see what they think and they'll get you sorted out one way or the other. Contact

TBone could be right with the neck needing a shim (which isn't inherently a bad thing and a reasonably quick/easy fix). The saddle binding sounds unusual, could you post picture of the entire bridge/saddles? Try de-tuning before adjusting intonation distance to see if helps at all?

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

Do a pic of the whole bridge... looking straight down on it from above.

 

[MMSR4TCP]

Since the bass is brand new, I'd chat with the customer service folks first to see what they think and they'll get you sorted out one way or the other. Contact

TBone could be right with the neck needing a shim (which isn't inherently a bad thing and a reasonably quick/easy fix). The saddle binding sounds unusual, could you post picture of the entire bridge/saddles? Try de-tuning before adjusting intonation distance to see if helps at all?

• I 100%agree on the neck shim. That completely makes sense.
  • The fact that i'm maxed against the mute pads with barely a high medium actions sucks.
  • Also, the mutes don't actually work. Probably because the neck is too low. The strings just ring so they are not putting meaningful pressure on the strings.
  • There are a few weird things going on here certainly.
• I'll post a pic I do have one.
• I called customer support this morning, they are short staffed today, they have all the images and video of the saddle binding.
• Yes, I always detune before moving saddles for intonation.
• Since the bass is only a few days old now i'm going to try and get a new one from the reseller. This is too many items not OK for a new bass.
• My reseller is awesome. I do know these basses aren't being delivered in high numbers currently, so I don't know what the wait will be.
• I also have video showing the saddles (which ever one I intonate last 'binding' up).

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

That bridge is similar (if not the same) as the one EBMM made for "Flea" when he was playing StingRay Basses and would have expected to see the saddles a lot closer to the mute pads. Perhaps re-position the 4 saddles ahead of the two side bolts and intonate the strings again from that point.