Truss rod noob

[Corey S.]

Over the past few months, my stingray has developed some fret buzz mainly on the E and A strings. So I was thinking about how I should rid of the buzzing when I remember, "oh yeah...I've never adjusted a truss rod in my life.." And to think that I someday want to become a luthier... Looks like I have a ways to go.

Anyhow, I heard from another thread that EBMM basses either do or do not come with a little sheet that guides you on how to adjust your truss rod. I bought my ray only about 5 months ago though, and this wasn't the case...

I DID do a search before I posted and could not find anything that specifically answered my question. But how exactly does adjust the truss rod? I know it has to be simple, everyone always praises on how easy EBMM truss rods are easily adjusted. But how does it work, either moving it right either raises/lowers the neck or moving it left either raises/lowers the neck. Sorry, i'm a bit confused on how to word that, so i'm sure it sounds a bit silly. But is it easy enough for me to be able to adjust it myself? or should I just go back to the shop and have them basically do a neck set up?(they usually set up all of their instruments before putting them out, and my stingray is still in pristine condition minus the buzz.) so I don't think I need the bass completely set up.

Thanks for any replies, sorry if this all seems idiotically worded..

 

[epitaph04]

It couldn't be easier on an MM bass! Grab an allen key, screwdriver, whatever fits properly into the truss rod wheel at the bottom of the neck (I use a 7/64 allen key) and either turn the key to the left (towards yourself) to add relief to the neck (this raises the action) or turn it to the right and this will straighten the neck, giving you lower action. I always adjust my truss rud while in playing position, so that should help.

 

[five7]

counter clockwise towards the E string if it is a right handed bass will do it.

 

[jasper383]

Are you sure the neck needs more relief? It might be something else.

Fret the A string at the 1st and 15th fret. Check the gap between the A string and the fret at the 8th fret. The gap should be about the thickness of a credit card, maybe a little less. If it's less than that, yes you should add a little relief by loosening the truss rod. If not, it's probably something else.

 

[tbonesullivan]

One tip I always give: remove tension from the strings, and if possible, put a bit of pressure on the neck when trying to straighten it. this makes the truss rod nut do less work than if it has to pull against the tension of the strings. only move it at most 1/8 of a full revolution at a time.

I also do not understand why the EBMM literature mentions the truss rod as mainly a way of adjusting the action. action should be adjusted at the bridge, relief with the truss rod, or so I've been taught.

 

[Corey S.]

first off, thank you for the replies everyone.

Are you sure the neck needs more relief? It might be something else.

Fret the A string at the 1st and 15th fret. Check the gap between the A string and the fret at the 8th fret. The gap should be about the thickness of a credit card, maybe a little less. If it's less than that, yes you should add a little relief by loosening the truss rod. If not, it's probably something else.

Ok, so I tried this. reguarding the 8th fret, it turns up that it is the tiniest bit thicker than a credit card..like probably no more than a millimeter thicker. When I played at the 1st and 15th, the 1st was a bit buzzy. The 15th was not at all. The buzzing stops at about the fifth or sixth fret on the A string for me...no more buzzing anywhere on that string from those frets on down.

If it's something else, is it a possibilty that it is something drastic or a wacky problem?? besides needing the truss rod or bridge adjusted, I can't think of hardly anything that would cause this. Only other thing I can think of is that I'm from upstate new york, and there are some crazy temperature changes here especially changing between seasons.. maybe this could be a reason?? I don't know, any input on this would be greatly appreciated.

One tip I always give: remove tension from the strings, and if possible, put a bit of pressure on the neck when trying to straighten it. this makes the truss rod nut do less work than if it has to pull against the tension of the strings. only move it at most 1/8 of a full revolution at a time.

I also do not understand why the EBMM literature mentions the truss rod as mainly a way of adjusting the action. action should be adjusted at the bridge, relief with the truss rod, or so I've been taught.

I also took a look at my bridge. For future reference, is something special used to adjust it?? Otherwise, I honestly was a bit shocked and confused to find that I had no idea how to adjust it. Unless I didn't take a good enough look at it..

 

[tbonesullivan]

the bridge is adjusted using I think a 1/16 allen key, much like other fender/style bridge saddles. The intonation is adjusted using the screw in the bridge saddle.

I usually hold down the 13th and 1st fret at the same time for intonation. You want the credit card thickness between the string and fret midway between that, and some would consider that to be too much. If it's 2mm, that's way too much by most accounts. if you have too much relief often you have to bottom out the saddles so much that you get strange buzzing issues. It also could be string rattle. If you can't track down the buzz, you may want to take it in and have it looked at.