Truss Rod, String height, etc.

[cgworkman]

Hello all:

I just purchased my first MM SR5. I noticed right out of the box that the string height was a quite a bit higher than what I've experienced on other basses. Is this normal? Is the action on a MM bass higher than most?

I tried to adjust it and I can't seem to bring it down to what I like without getting some serious fret buzz. I've noticed there's no tilt screw on the back at all. Also, I saw where EB says to only adjust the truss rod for height adjustments. On the upper frets there is some serious buzz - it's almost sounds like a fretless it's so bad.

I've been Following EB's directions on their FAQ section but that doesn't answer all my questions - it seems what's worked on other basses isn't working on this one...

Any suggestions? Pointers? Etc?

 

[bovinehost]

Chris, the first thing you should do is check the relief in the neck. Don't even fool with the saddles yet, just sight down the neck and see if the neck is overly straight or overly bowed either way.

Sounds to me like that's the first order of bidness.

But to answer your Big Question, no, the string height on EBs should be adjustable to your comfort level, not higher than other basses.

 

[Jean-Frédéric]

I had that ****ing buzzin' sound ..
well I turned the trussrod . . . to raise the bridge a lil ... and let me tell you that thing is hard to turn .. and I raise my bridge ..

now it sounds okai

 

[bovinehost]

Turning the truss rod does NOT raise the bridge. How could it?

Turning the truss rod does only one of two things - adds more or less relief to the neck, relief being a fancy way to say "curve".

I would seriously suggest some study on the subject of adjustments before you go at the truss rod, ESPECIALLY IF YOU FIND THE TRUSS ADJUSTMENT HARD TO TURN!

Let's be careful out there.

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

YIKES....frightening!!!

Listen to Bovie.

I'm no expert but please go here:

http://www.ernieball.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2174

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

>>>>Also, I saw where EB says to only adjust the truss rod for height adjustments.

With all due respects.....that is simply not correct....in the strict sense. It appears to be a general statement. Truss adjustment will affect height but that's not the way to go about it.

 

[cgworkman]

>>>>Also, I saw where EB says to only adjust the truss rod for height adjustments.

With all due respects.....that is simply not correct....in the strict sense. It appears to be a general statement. Truss adjustment will affect height but that's not the way to go about it.

I agree with that.... I've been playing twentysomething years - and i've heard interesting things about SR's here and there - after reading EB's website about string height, I wanted to make sure before I ruined mt neck - that would really suck!! I just being trying to be cautious - I owened an Alembic for a while and setting the neck on it was a nightmare because of the way it was "set".

But I'll just go about my business like normal - especially since Bovine said that it can be set to suit my style. Like I said - I've been told some interesting things about MM basses. After making some small adjustments, I didn't want to force the neck and ruin it. Safety's best!!

Thanks for the pointers guys! If you think of anything else feel free to include it. thanks

 

[Jean-Frédéric]

What I meant was

I had to raise the bridge TOO .. cause my strings were too low,but there was still a buzz so i played with the neck
and my nut is hard to turn.. for I don't know what reason..but mine is ....but I manage to do it ..and I the curve due to the turning will dissapear in time ( took 10 min on mine cause it was a verry small adjustment ) ..it's cause the wood just got " moved" and it needs time to work the new position and adjust to it ..

 

[cgworkman]

what????

 

[Jean-Frédéric]

My bridge was too low .. i raised it
my neck to low .. i raised it ( or something like that )

Wood is something that always "works" like when there's a lot of humidity ... well when I turned my truss rod .. my neck curved a lil , but the rest of the neck followed after lil time ..

Okay I know my english sucks .. but I don't think I'm that hard to follow ..

And I did read a **** load about how turning my freaking neck
and also noted where the rod was originally so i could move it back to were it was just in case ..

Maybe I only been playing for ..what lil less than 3 years ...but I'm not as dumb as I may sound by the poor english I have ..

 

[midopa]

Do note that if the capton (I believe that's what it's called - the truss wheel) is getting hard to turn, that is usually a sure sign that it's already gone too far. Try taking it to a guitar tech to inspect it.

 

[Jean-Frédéric]

yeah I should but you see
I spent over 1800 on the bass
spent 1800 on my new guitar

I'm sorta dry out of money ..
plus the weel is hard to get back also .........

 

[midopa]

I see your point. Well, it would be very good to get it looked at. A Sam Ash near me charges only $35 for a setup. Once you get some money saved, you best have that looked at. Until then, rock on. After then, rock on. Have a rocky time, buddy.

 

[Kennyhoe]

I get charged $40 CDN. for my setup. Even with the falling American dollar, I'm pretty sure it's a better deal.

 

[Jean-Frédéric]

hehe the prob tho ain't much money .. it's the dealer ...the only one I really trust is .. hum .. 20min by car ... or
45 min buss plus a 20 min subway ride ..but I don't know If i want to go by buss with my Sterling
plus .. I don't have a car .. ^^

but the bass is allright now .. guess it was mainly due to the humidity of my home ...
if i get a chance I'll get it check tho , you can be sure !

 

[cgworkman]

http://weedhopper.org/bass_guitar_setup.asp

this is good link i've sent people to before.

just a good generalized setup.

not really a MM designated "setup"

but allot is working information