working on Axis; Raz, dwf2004, anyone else...

[Big Dainjerus]

First off Raz I went to an old post of yours that talked about the correct way to tune strings (hi-e to low-e, flat to pitch, etc) and it worked real well. Usually its a real pain in the ass for me to get everyhting in tune etc but your way worked well. And this is to dwf and the rest (including raz); Alright so I figured out exactly what goes wrong with my Axis. When I get it tune and lock it up and adjust the fine tuners a wee bit, and then I depress the whammy bar and some if not most of the strings go sharp upon bringing the bar up again. I figured it might not be a good idea to depress the bar right after tuning so I retuned and played for a bit. I also thought maybe I had never worked in the strings etc so I stretched those a little bit and kept retuning as needed. I noticed a few things, first off, when I got it in tune and started rockin some VH tunes I noticed that the strings go flat on me a bit. It went from my amp into my tuner, from my tuner into my guitar, so I could check the pitch of a string anytime i wanted etc. So when I went back to the tuner my strings had gone flat a bit. Second I noticed what I said before, after I depress the whammy, the strings come back somewhat sharp. ALso, I dont know if this is normal, but when i dive bomb it seems the high e doesnt really go slack much like the other strings that turn into spaghetti, which may be why the high e doesnt really go sharp like the others either. Sorry for the runaround fellas, but can ya help me out?

 

[Big Dainjerus]

forgot to mention that my strings are tuned down half step to beging with to get my EVH on

 

[NorM]

Like the slots in the nut (of an unclamped non floyd model) can get a little sticky, I have also found that the knife edge on a tremelo can get sticky as well. Some times these knife edges need to be lubricateded as well. 3 in 1, Remington teflon spray, or my favorite homemade nut slick (just enough vasoline to hold graphite together). Also, is your floyd coming all the way back down to rest on the body. The way you say string pitch is returning flat suggests:
Strings need better stretching
The trem claw needs to be tightened

I hope this helps get your guitar up and running in tip top condition.

 

[Big Dainjerus]

No the strings return sharp after pushing down the tremolo, they kinda go flat when i am just playing for a while without using the bar. However, this is not as noticeable, but everytime I use the bar some strings turn sharp.

 

[Raz]

Wow I can't believe someone actually listened to me...can I get my wife and kids to give you a call?

OK is this an Axis with a vintage trem and locking tuners? Is it a Floyd? Locking nut? With what Norm had mentioned I would seriously look at how the bridge rests on the body. Since you tuned down, there is less tension now in the strings and therefore less stress on the springs. I would loosen the screws on the trem springs so that the bridge lifts slightly off the body. Then you should re- tune, tighten the springs, (tune then tighten) a little at a time so that there is a near perfect balance. If the tension in your strings doesn't equal that of your trem springs, then it may be the cause...I don't know, but if you eliminat all of the variables, it may help.

Here is another method of tuning that I may try out:

The proper way to tune any guitar with a tremelo is with what I call "Cross Tuning." This is a method of tuning back and forth across the strings. If you start at the bass E string and tune in succession to the treble E string you'll find that the bridge will tilt toward the peghead and all of the strings will be flat. Here's what you do (it is best to use a good electronic tuner for this): Your strings are numbered 1 to 6 (#1 being treble E, #6 being bass E.)

Start with some tension on all strings, but make sure none are above pitch (all strings should be flat.) Tune #6 up to pitch. Tune #1 to pitch Tune #2 to pitch Tune #5 to pitch Now repeat this from the beginning(6, 1, 2, 5.) After you have re-tuned 5, tune #3. Now tune #4. Repeat from the beginning until you are in tune.

Remember to ALWAYS tune up to pitch and never down. If you are sharp, tune below the desired note, then tune back up. It may seem confusing at first, but you will get used to it. I've gotten so used to it that I tune fixed bridges this way too. What this method does is apply even tension to the strings from side to side so that the tremelo rises level. If you go from one end to the other, the trem continues to raise and as it does all of the strings you've tuned become flat. This is more controllable with cross tuning.

 

[Big Dainjerus]

Yeah my axis I guess has a vintage trem, I like to mess around with my whammy a lot so I got to get me one that can stay in tune. I think its the Gotoh that Musicman uses correct? The bridge jsut says musicman on it...i dunno the trem feels kinda stiff, but I am not sure if that is becasue my last guitar was a floating trem, so I have been used to that and now thta I have one that is flush to the body it feels different.

 

[Jimi D]

Sounds like the strings are binding in the nut when you use the trem. What gauge strings are you using? The nut is cut for .009 to .046, I think...

 

[Lew]

Sounds like the strings are binding in the nut when you use the trem. What gauge strings are you using? The nut is cut for .009 to .046, I think...

Is that right,then that would explain why i have a little fret buzz on the d a e strings-I strung it with 9-42.

Cheers Jimi!

 

[Ali]

At least you can claim to be just like Eddie. I don't think he ever played in perfect tune!!! He used to get the rest of the band to tune to him

 

[Raz]

If this is the case then all of my EBMM's should be out of whack then, cause I have restrung them all with 10's...but honestly I have no trouble with tuning or whammying, the only thing is weather and the odd truss adjustment, I notice it more cause my action is dropped right down and since I use the buzz-no-buzz method of action adjustment, any slight movement creates a buzz...I usually don't fret( ) about the small buzzes though cause they're not audible once I get cranked!

 

[edensdad]

Raz's tuning technique works well for me as well. I've used it for years, but I never knew who invented it. I was also told early on to stretch new strings by gently pulling on them (away from the nut and headstock) 3 or 4 times, retune and repeat until they settle. Or if you have more patience - tune them, put the guitar on the stand and let them stretch naturally, then retune and repeat.

My strings almost never go out of tune on any guitar using these and Raz's methods.

>^..^<

 

[Raz]

You guys are way to kind...I'm gonna track that website down so we can thank the real genius behind that technique...
I want to try that second method I posted on my Washburn with the floating Floyd, its a bit more trickier to tune

 

[Warg Master]

Here's a very AWSOME and in-depth guide to the floyd that helped me do it properly when I was first starting to learn the floyd rose setup and string change system 5-6 years ago. This is an awsome guide for taking care of your guitar period, a lot of it apply to just about any guitar.

http://clevelandmetalzone.com/JWGuitars/tech/floyd/floyd_howto.html


Personally, I have developed my own system for this, but I started here and still use some of the stuff in this guide. While it doesn't say much about tuning, it's a good maintainance guide.