Question question about the trem post-screws on a JP7

[Santuzzo]

Hi,

I just got a JP7 back from a set up and it seems the trem is sitting a bit too low in the trem cavity, especially on the side of the low strings.
As far as I know the trem plate should be flush with the body, right?

My question: in order to raise the trem in the cavity by turning the two trem posts, is it necessary to loosen the strings and trem springs or can I turn those post-screws at full string tension without damaging the trem post screws or the trem knife-edges?

thanks,
Lars

 

[DrKev]

As far as I know the trem plate should be flush with the body, right?

The trem plate should approximately parallel with the guitar top. Flush, i.e dead flat level with the the top, is not strictly necessary. If your action is good over the 12th fret you have nothing to worry about. Of course if you're not happy with it you can of course raise the bridge plate by turning the trem posts (anti-clockwise) and restore string action by lowering the saddles.

My question: in order to raise the trem in the cavity by urning the two trem posts, is it necessary to loosen the strings and trem springs or can I turn those post-screws at full string tension without damaging the trem post screws or the trem knife-edges?

I've had a quick look at some online setup guides - Floyd Rose, Fender, and Ibanez make no mention of any need to detune the strings when adjusting the bridge posts. Personally, I don't worry about it and just adjust as necessary. It only needs to be done once and won't ever change of it's own accord.

 

[gurtejsingh]

Yes, the trem plate should be flush with the body for best functioning of the tremolo.

I would let the experts chime in on this one, but as far as I do it, I do not lose the strings or the springs before making an adjustment to the height. But then again, it depends on how much you need to turn them I guess. If it's a good amount that you would need to turn, I would loosen the strings a bit, because raising it up will increase the tension on the strings. But that's just how I do it.

The trem posts are really good and a few turns should get you what you want. I'd turn them bit by bit rather than huge turns.

Hope this helps


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[Santuzzo]

Thanks!
AFAIK that trm should be even/flush with the surface of the body, meaning it's parallel to it from the side view but also from the front or back view. in my case it sits lower on the bass-strings.
All other JP7 I had were set up in a way that the trem would be perfectly flush.

I was only concerned whether the trem posts and the trem knife edges would take any damage when the screws are turned under full string tension.

 

[PaoloGilberto]

I have a setup luthier manual somewhere home and as far as I remember I read that you better loose the tension from string/springs for the same reason you mentioned
there's no need for that pressure by rotating those pivots in contact with knife edges ...so better loosen up strings/springs

 

[Monster212]

i always loosen the strings, as if you don't you can damage the knife edges that way.

 

[Santuzzo]

Thank you guys,
I did this, and I loosened the strings and in addition to that I took out one of the trem springs.
If anything, at least this made the stud screw turn more easily. And I'm happy now with the trem height. This also raised the action a bit, but I don't like super low action anyway, so it's all good

I know these guitars can be set up with a very low action, but for some reason I prefer a somewhat higher action, I have always had a hard time bending strings when the action is too low as the strings then usually slip under my fingertips.

 

[gurtejsingh]

Thank you guys,
I did this, and I loosened the strings and in addition to that I took out one of the trem springs.
If anything, at least this made the stud screw turn more easily. And I'm happy now with the trem height. This also raised the action a bit, but I don't like super low action anyway, so it's all good

I know these guitars can be set up with a very low action, but for some reason I prefer a somewhat higher action, I have always had a hard time bending strings when the action is too low as the strings then usually slip under my fingertips.

Glad you worked it out. I also prefer a slightly higher action. I feel a super low action adds a bit of 'twang' to my tone, and the clean parts sound much more rich if the strings have some space to breath

Nonetheless, I can always reduce a bit of the relief to achieve a slightly lower action (I usually keep a bit of relief in the neck). The truss rod adjustment is super easy


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[Etudica]

I recently asked my preferred luthier the same question about string tension while adjusting posts. Short answer he provided is that as long as you turn the posts slowly and a fraction of a turn at a time there is no need to take away tension. It's only when you crank out a few turns super fast that the friction could cause some wear.

That being said, I do play it extra safe and loosen all tension with one of my JPs which came with a factory defect in the bridge plate where it meets the treble side post.