.130 and .135 B Strings

[bvdrummer]

I'm using a .130" B string on my Bongo & Sterling, and I'm considering trying a .135". I don't have a particular question, just some observations and thoughts, and I'd like to see some opinions or how others have dealt with these issues.

For proper intonation with the .130, I have the saddle so far back that the spring is almost fully compressed into itself. On other guitars I have actually cut the spring in half to get me a little extra room to compress, though I haven't done this on my EBMM's yet.

Also, because the saddle is so far back, restringing is tough to feed the string through the hole and over the saddle. I usually pull the saddle all the way forward to get the string in and out, and then reset the intonation after the string is on there.

The .130 is also a pretty tight fit through the hole in the bridge, so would I have to drill that out for a .135? And would I have to file the nut slot wider?

 

[sanderhermans]

This sounds strange to me.... i would asume a 5 string bass is made for both 130 and 135 strings. They should fit easy. Also intonation springs compressed all the way... ive never seen or heard about this. Is your bass properly set up?

 

[jlepre]

I've actually had to shave off some of the silk to allow the string fit through the hole. I can't remember if it was a 135.

 

[Mu5icM@n]

Hm, something doesn't sound right--I string my Bongo 5 and Stingray 5 with .130 Ernie Ball strings. When the B string saddle is properly intonated there's a little bit of the bridge screw poking out the end and there's lots of travel left.

I would suggest taking a look at your action or neck relief--having a really high action or too much neck relief could cause that string to stretch quite a bit as you push it down to the fretboard, requiring a lot of compensation at the bridge. The other thing I do when I restring the bass is to push down on the B and E strings right at the bridge as I bring them up to tension to give them a bit of a break point right at the bridge saddle. I don't know if that would have any effect on the intonation or not, but maybe it's something to try.

Tom

 

[bvdrummer]

Ok thanks for the tips. I've been needing to work on my right hand technique so that I can probably get lower action without buzzing. Maybe the lower action will help my intonation, but I've always had this issue with basses and even 7 string / baritone guitars!

 

[Golem]

Hm, something doesn't sound right--I string my Bongo 5 and Stingray 5 with .130 Ernie Ball strings. When the B string saddle is properly intonated there's a little bit of the bridge screw poking out the end and there's lots of travel left.

I would suggest taking a look at your action or neck relief--having a really high action or too much neck relief could cause that string to stretch quite a bit as you push it down to the fretboard, requiring a lot of compensation at the bridge. The other thing I do when I restring the bass is to push down on the B and E strings right at the bridge as I bring them up to tension to give them a bit of a break point right at the bridge saddle. I don't know if that would have any effect on the intonation or not, but maybe it's something to try.

Tom

Yes "breaking" the string over the saddle means the speaking section of the string
begins pretty much right *at* the saddle. If you don't break the string properly, if
you view the stiffer strings [E and especially B135] crossing the saddle you'll see
the string arching thru mid-air to a point ahead of and above the contact point on
the saddle. It arcs thru empty space and then finally becomes straight.

The straight section is the speaking section. The arched section is too stiff to be
able to "speak". Sooo ... the length of the arched section shortens the available
speaking section, which necessitates moving the saddle back. The arching also
raises the action at the bridge. Over time the arched section may break down
and then it's as if you had broken in the string at the saddle when restringing, so
then it's time to re-intonate.

The OP complains about inconvenience in restringing circumstances. This tells
me that he doesn't let his strings age much before restringing, so that arch never
breaks down. Even if I didn't know to break strings at the saddle, on my basses
the arch would collapse over time, cuz I almost *never* change my strings [I
play flats]. I don't care how inconvenient my stringing-up procedure might be,
cuz I only do that every several years !

 

[the explode man]

I string my four string Sterling with a .130 for the B and haven't had any issues!

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

.

I tend to agree with Golem.

Here's my take on it. If you've fitted new strings, tune them to pitch and press down on each with your thumb just forward of the saddle (on the neck side) so that the string makes good contact with the saddle (“witness point”). After each intonation adjustment retune to pitch, each time, before making the next intonation adjustment.

 

[nervous]

Hm, something doesn't sound right--I string my Bongo 5 and Stingray 5 with .130 Ernie Ball strings. When the B string saddle is properly intonated there's a little bit of the bridge screw poking out the end and there's lots of travel left.

Exactly the same here. All three. Pulled back as far as you have it is probably creating all sorts on odd issues. Screw that saddle almost allow the way forward toward the nut and start over.

Funny that I just rechecked and set the intonation on two of mine and thethe Dargie was giving me some problems. It turns out that when I disassembled the bridge for a thorough cleaning and polish I didn't pay close enough attention to what screws and springs went with which saddle positions. And they are different. I had them reversed. So back to the lab to swap the to their correct spots and viola, perfect. short springs and screws on the low B and E, mid length on the A and the last, longest two for the D and G.

Good luck!

 

[jazzyitalian]

I like to string my 5-er with a high "C" EADGC. I use the heavest guages possible to accomodate the grooves in the nut. Ussually 110 as the E and 35 as the C. I like to solo.