Do You Plug Your Active Bass into the Normal Input or the Low Level Input of your Amp

backagain1

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Do You plug your active bass into the normal input of your amp or the Low Level Input? I have a Stingray 5.

Thanks,

backagain1
 
Check the owners manual of your amp, I bet they suggest the low.
 
I play a GK Fusion 550 and I always set it to the Passive (or low input) setting. The amp never clips at all... in fact, none of the handful of GK heads I've used have ever clipped with any EBMM bass I've played, or any bass at all for that matter. I'm sure different amps behave differently, but for me, the GK heads haven't needed to be padded. YMMV
 
That's the word I was looking for ... "padded." My question should have been, "Do you plug your active MM bass into the padded input, or the normal input?" I don't want to lose that great active boost sound.

Thanks,

backagain1
 
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My SWR has "passive/active" and "active" (padded) inputs. I use the "passive/active" input, because using the gain that controls the tube preamp, I can easily keep it from clipping, while retaining that "forward in the mix" active sound.
 
On my Ashdown high input is for Passive and Low input is for Active basses, even my little Ampeg BA112 works the same.I'm pretty sure you need the low impedance for the active EQ to behave, on amps with both inputs.
 
I use the pad on my GK to keep the Bongos behaving - not an SR5 but I have found that on amp that gives you a choice it is usually best to follow the manufacturer's guide. However you can sometimes get by using either if you do what BP and EBMM suggests and not dime the volume but use it as a line level
 
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My SWR has "passive/active" and "active" (padded) inputs. I use the "passive/active" input, because using the gain that controls the tube preamp, I can easily keep it from clipping, while retaining that "forward in the mix" active sound.
+1
I can dial the gain knob to 1 or 2 o'clock and still don't get the "clip" LED to flicker.
 
Both - 'cos I can never remember which one is which :rolleyes:

I'm sure it must make a difference but I haven't noticed yet
 
I have 2 amps the Trace Elliot has 2 inputs one called ACTIVE the other PASSIVE, I think that must be a dead giveaway, the other amp is a Mark Bass, that has only one input and a blue gain light which lights up when your input gain is too high, that light must be kept off hence I would back off the gain a bit to avoid clipping. Simple.
 
The only difference between the passive and active inputs is that the active has a resistor in line to lower the actual input of your instrument. I have been told that will actually effect the sound quality of your signal, so I was told to always us the passive input to achieve the full signal of my bass. Any other thoughts?
 
If you aren't clipping the front end, no reason to use the "active" input on an amp.

the sound quality of a resistor is a hot topic among audiophiles. I just enjoy the music.
 
I never use the "active" padded input. It squashes the tone too much for my taste. I also detect some funky compression that seems to be going on in most of those -db inputs.
 
I've been using the "active" input (-6 db) because of the mighty output of the Bongo. Maybe I will try the "passive" input and dial it back and compare.
 
I've been using the "active" input (-6 db) because of the mighty output of the Bongo. Maybe I will try the "passive" input and dial it back and compare.

Let me know if you notice a difference in the sound.

Thanks,

backagain1
 
That's simple: My amp has only one input and a gain pot.

On other amps I usually try the passive (or "high") input first.
Only if the amp can't handle ample boosts from my onboard-preamp I change to the active one...

Why tame the signal down if the amp can handle it as it is...

So just try it.

There is not really a wrong or right.
There are some basses out there with a way "hotter" output in passive mode than some active basses i've heard. It doesn't say much.
Take G&L for example. Even in passive mode hard to handle for some amps...
 
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