The serial number is 51488, and I believe that dates it back to 1990. I think $1,000 plus shipping is a fair price. The guy wants more than that for it, and it is a great bass, maybe the best 5 string in my opinion. Plus it has those amazing warm sounding alnico pickups. But I am not sure if I should pay more than $1,000 plus shipping right?
- Thread starter Chip Reno
- Start date
adouglas
Well-known member
It's worth whatever the market will bear. If you're willing to pay $1000 for it, then it's worth $1000. If the next guy in line is willing to pony up $1200, then that's what it's worth.
Many people, particularly sellers, do not have realistic expectations when they put their stuff up for sale. They think it's worth more than people are willing to pay.
The point is that there is no real price guide for used instruments. The open market is the final arbiter, period. You can sell anything in a day if you price it right.
The most reliable source of market value is the completed listings on ebay. Find a similar bass that has sold (or better yet, several) and see what they went for. You'll also see a lot of basses that did not sell… those sellers were unrealistic.
My own rule of thumb is that 2/3 of street (not MSRP) price is fair to both parties, provided the item is in excellent condition, is reasonably new and does not have anything special about it. Adjust up or down from there to account for age, wear, market demand, etc. That's proven the test of time and I have never failed to sell, or buy, for around that target.
Head on over to a reliable source for current street value, like The Perfect Bass website. Find a new SR5 and see what it's price is (forum rules prevent me from posting it here). Do the math… and I think you'll find your instincts are pretty good.
Many people, particularly sellers, do not have realistic expectations when they put their stuff up for sale. They think it's worth more than people are willing to pay.
The point is that there is no real price guide for used instruments. The open market is the final arbiter, period. You can sell anything in a day if you price it right.
The most reliable source of market value is the completed listings on ebay. Find a similar bass that has sold (or better yet, several) and see what they went for. You'll also see a lot of basses that did not sell… those sellers were unrealistic.
My own rule of thumb is that 2/3 of street (not MSRP) price is fair to both parties, provided the item is in excellent condition, is reasonably new and does not have anything special about it. Adjust up or down from there to account for age, wear, market demand, etc. That's proven the test of time and I have never failed to sell, or buy, for around that target.
Head on over to a reliable source for current street value, like The Perfect Bass website. Find a new SR5 and see what it's price is (forum rules prevent me from posting it here). Do the math… and I think you'll find your instincts are pretty good.
`
Also consider that an alnico SR5 is no longer a discontinued
entity. Ever since the recent introduction of the Sterling-5,
the SR-5 is no longer a [ceramic] "Sterling with a StingRay
decal". It has now become a real Ray, with an extra string,
and you get a noise canceling dummie coil, which the early
model SR5 did not have.
Considering all that, I'd never pay $1200 for an oldie when
thaz about the retail price of a used recent SR5. Even at
$1000, I'd be thinking I'd rather scrounge up an extra $200
for a recent version. My own SR5 cost $1050 at retail, and
it's FL with piezo bridge, trans finish, and matching HS.
`
Also consider that an alnico SR5 is no longer a discontinued
entity. Ever since the recent introduction of the Sterling-5,
the SR-5 is no longer a [ceramic] "Sterling with a StingRay
decal". It has now become a real Ray, with an extra string,
and you get a noise canceling dummie coil, which the early
model SR5 did not have.
Considering all that, I'd never pay $1200 for an oldie when
thaz about the retail price of a used recent SR5. Even at
$1000, I'd be thinking I'd rather scrounge up an extra $200
for a recent version. My own SR5 cost $1050 at retail, and
it's FL with piezo bridge, trans finish, and matching HS.
`
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Honestly that's price is fair.
Also my personal preference is the glossy necks like the classic and I'm sure that has it (unless modified)
Honestly if You like a glossy finish and your looking for a used 5 string I say go for it.
I own two SR5s, a 2004 and a 1994. Both were purchased within the last year for less than $1000 each-- quite a bit less actually. In my neck of the woods, the market for SR5s is pretty soft now (I've seen a few on CL recently in the $850 - $950 range) so I'd say your offer is more than fair.
drTStingray
Well-known member
Sounds it to me also - a 1990 is an early SR5 - you may find it has a highly figured neck also. If it was me I'd get it - but then I just love SR4s and SR5s from that era!
adouglas
Well-known member
Yeah, mine usually says "Buh-BYE!"
I need to teach it some additional vocabulary, like "Put me back in that nice, warm pocket! It's comfy in there!"
Thanks for the advice everyone, Golem I do not think it is fair to compare a recent Sterling 5 string to a 1990 SR5. The only Stingrays that compare would be the new classic Stingray 5 that has an Alnico pickup, but that has only been out for two years and there are no used ones on the market. And if there were they would be around $500 more. Also your SR5 with Piezo is only going to depreciate in value...sorry, and a 1990 Stingray is going to appreciate in value since there were only a few years with that certain configuration. I had the chance to buy many basses like yours for hundreds of dollars less. The market is almost saturated with them.
Anyways- I went with everyone's advice (besides Golem) and got the bass. The total came in just below $1,100 after shipping and paypal fees. The owner was somewhat of a nightmare to deal with, but I really wanted the bass so I jumped through all of his hoops. There were many other Stingrays out there that were $200-$300 cheaper, but I wanted to go with something I can be truly proud of. Also, we are making an album in a few weeks (which is what started this journey in the first place) and I wanted a bass that would give me that true Stingray tone I was looking for. If I was just playing live shows and jamming it would not matter Alnico or Seramic pickups, 1990 or 2008, but I knew I would hear the difference on the album.
I looked for other 88-93 SR5's on complete listing on eBay, going or previous prices on craigslist, and on forums. I found some from years ago on forum sites that ranged from $900-$1400. That is why I posted on this forum. I think $1,100 is fair, and in ten years this bass may be worth twice that. But I don't care because I will not sell it. Now I just need a 1978 4 string stingray and I will be happy.
Anyways- I went with everyone's advice (besides Golem) and got the bass. The total came in just below $1,100 after shipping and paypal fees. The owner was somewhat of a nightmare to deal with, but I really wanted the bass so I jumped through all of his hoops. There were many other Stingrays out there that were $200-$300 cheaper, but I wanted to go with something I can be truly proud of. Also, we are making an album in a few weeks (which is what started this journey in the first place) and I wanted a bass that would give me that true Stingray tone I was looking for. If I was just playing live shows and jamming it would not matter Alnico or Seramic pickups, 1990 or 2008, but I knew I would hear the difference on the album.
I looked for other 88-93 SR5's on complete listing on eBay, going or previous prices on craigslist, and on forums. I found some from years ago on forum sites that ranged from $900-$1400. That is why I posted on this forum. I think $1,100 is fair, and in ten years this bass may be worth twice that. But I don't care because I will not sell it. Now I just need a 1978 4 string stingray and I will be happy.
drTStingray
Well-known member
Congrats - be sure to post some pics when you can, we'd like to see your bass. There's a rule round here - no pics no bass (NPNB!)
cellkirk74
Well-known member
I think it was a good deal. Yeah, pics please!
But Golem was right when he said that all Stingray 5s, not just the classics, do have alnico magnets since the introduction of the Sterling 5
But Golem was right when he said that all Stingray 5s, not just the classics, do have alnico magnets since the introduction of the Sterling 5
`
From what I've read from "MM Scholars", the 4 string Sterling
originally came to be so that the very popular ceramic PU'ed,
coil-switching bass known as the StingRay 5-string would be
also available to 4-string players.
My own observation is that EBMM never made it very clear
nor well-publicized for all those years. Quite typically, one
would encounter a player saying that he loved his SR5 but
the SR4 "didn't do it for me" ... with mention that it would
be desirable to have a 4-string, too, but that the Ray 4 is
just nothing like the Ray 5. EBMM never made an effort to
address those players by saying " Sorry for the confusing
name game, but hey, you want a Sterling 4 ! "
`
From what I've read from "MM Scholars", the 4 string Sterling
originally came to be so that the very popular ceramic PU'ed,
coil-switching bass known as the StingRay 5-string would be
also available to 4-string players.
My own observation is that EBMM never made it very clear
nor well-publicized for all those years. Quite typically, one
would encounter a player saying that he loved his SR5 but
the SR4 "didn't do it for me" ... with mention that it would
be desirable to have a 4-string, too, but that the Ray 4 is
just nothing like the Ray 5. EBMM never made an effort to
address those players by saying " Sorry for the confusing
name game, but hey, you want a Sterling 4 ! "
`
Here are a couple that he sent me. I will upload more when I get the bass next week. How long has the Sterling 5 been out? Has anyone had a chance to A/B an older 87-93 Ray with alnico against a newer Sterling, classic or other model? I played on a few Sterlings and was not that impressed.
drTStingray
Well-known member
That looks really good and it appears to have quite a lot of figuring in the headstock, so the back of the neck may be a thing of beauty. Love the matte white pg, and I'm guessing that is the original, from new.
Bear in mind Tony Levin's famous peach coloured SR5 is one from this (alnoco) era and he appears to use it a lot, so that should be a fair recommendation!
My SR5 has ceramic pu magnets - in parallel, it sounds fairly close to an SR4. The other settings available are subtly different but very usable - I think the ceramic adds a bit more growl to the sound, and possibly a bit more focus - but this is all very subjective and depends on individual taste (and Hearing/perception!).
I'm guessing yours will sound closer to a 5 string version of a 3 band EQ Stingray (but with single coil and series settings available) - bear in mind the Classic SR5 is 2 band, so will sound different (it also has strings through the body), and as it has a slab body, feel very different owing to lack body contours (they are quite a feature on the SR5).
Of course, all these basses have the Musicman 'family' tone anyway - I'm guessing you will be very pleased with this bass - looks like a nice EBMM classic to me.
Bear in mind Tony Levin's famous peach coloured SR5 is one from this (alnoco) era and he appears to use it a lot, so that should be a fair recommendation!
My SR5 has ceramic pu magnets - in parallel, it sounds fairly close to an SR4. The other settings available are subtly different but very usable - I think the ceramic adds a bit more growl to the sound, and possibly a bit more focus - but this is all very subjective and depends on individual taste (and Hearing/perception!).
I'm guessing yours will sound closer to a 5 string version of a 3 band EQ Stingray (but with single coil and series settings available) - bear in mind the Classic SR5 is 2 band, so will sound different (it also has strings through the body), and as it has a slab body, feel very different owing to lack body contours (they are quite a feature on the SR5).
Of course, all these basses have the Musicman 'family' tone anyway - I'm guessing you will be very pleased with this bass - looks like a nice EBMM classic to me.
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Yes I have a 89 SR5 and owned a couple of HH Sterling 5s.
To be honestly they slightly different animals and I loved my Sterling 5s...The only reasons I loved them is because I kind like the bigger body of the Stingrays so I gigged with them more and I need $ for construction costs in my house...But I really liked them.
There is a different upper mid sound to a stingray that sets them apart IMHO others might describe it differently.
`
Without fancy terms or estimating which freq range
is affecting what effect .... I just find Sterlings to be
hotter or brighter, so I've limited my use of Sterlings
[incl ceramic SR5] to fretlessness. Works for me.
I might someday consider a Sterling HH cuz I find my
SR4 HH gets kinda muddy with all 4 coils cooking ....
so maybe a ceramic HH would fix that.
`
Without fancy terms or estimating which freq range
is affecting what effect .... I just find Sterlings to be
hotter or brighter, so I've limited my use of Sterlings
[incl ceramic SR5] to fretlessness. Works for me.
I might someday consider a Sterling HH cuz I find my
SR4 HH gets kinda muddy with all 4 coils cooking ....
so maybe a ceramic HH would fix that.
`
jlepre
Well-known member
I had 2 Sterling 5 HH and they were very aggressive sounding to my ears. You could tell the difference between the SR5 and the ST5 HH. One thing I LOVED was that both ST5's were around 9 pounds! Nice and light compared to most of my 10.5+ SR5's.
Congrats on the new bass, is that a trans red or solid? I have the trans and it's a sexy finish.
Congrats on the new bass, is that a trans red or solid? I have the trans and it's a sexy finish.
I am supposed to get the bass today, and I will upload pics as soon as I do. I am going to put a new set of stings on it, and I was thinking about using DR Hi-Beam 45-130. Any other recommendations? I was thinking 130 because I want that low B to be solid for the recording sessions. Is 130 best, or would 125 be better? I am going for that classic stingray tone, would DR Hi-Beams be best for that type of tone?
MattOfSweden
Well-known member
Did you try pulling the latch sideways?
