Help! JP6 3 way switch PCB circuit

[Dr.Strangenote]

Hi, today I was attempting to install a push/pull pot and found while doing some tugging to get the new pot to fit, some of the connections came off (they are metal filaments under the solder joint). They appear to be glued to the PCB. See pic. My question is, do I need to get a whole new part? Seems very frustrating to have to pay for an entire part for these delicate jobs. I'm wondering if I just buy a 3 way DPT ON/ON/ON switch and not use the PCB version of this switch, would just get the job done. Anyway, please let me know what you think.

Notice the Green and White points.

 

[Dr.Strangenote]

I got the JP6 wired up using a push/pull pot and don't need the White wire on the neck soldered to the PCB. The Green wire that couldn't be attached due to the mishap, is now soldered directly to the slug [the one above the "1" where it's stamped D-1]. Sounds find and dandy and we'll leave it alone now.

Just curious, have all JP's been using the PCB's or where they using traditional 4PDT switches at some point early on?

 

[beej]

There's nothing really fancy about the PCB- it's just pads attached to the toggle switch to make it quicker to solder up. You can always remove it and use the switch by itself. Or, do what you're doing, and solder to a corresponding point on the board.

 

[Dr.Strangenote]

thanks Beej. yup. Makes sense for a large line of production guitars to do it that way with a board, makes things easier for sure to wire. BP is a genius! For the tweaker, is where it gets complicated. But I've gotten around the stipulation of the PCB issue after realizing where those points are being directed to on the switch.

 

[beej]

Ya, it's often handy to have a multimeter around for stuff like this- use a continuity measurement to see what things are connected to each other. Glad to hear you've got 'er going.