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dean701

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Jan 28, 2014
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100
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Barrie, Canada
Whoa, how did you manage that? I've heard of stripped out holes for the intonation adjustment, but never for the fine tuner holes. Aren't the bridge plates usually steel, and the intonation screws made from some softer metal?

Anyway, I do feel your pain, as getting bridge plates for any Floyd Rose system is difficult. Even Stewart Macdonald doesn't stock any. Neither does Allparts. It almost seems like the manufacturers of the bridges themselves have chosen to not have any parts available like that. You can usually find the other parts, but not base plates.
I think the new bridges are of less quality than those pre-2011. I have never had an issue with any of my Axis with the original Gotoh. At first the fine tuner became sticky, then it started to wobble still being able to hold tune, then it became more free as time went on.
 
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ngjenkins

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Aug 8, 2024
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63
Location
Missoula, MT
I think the new bridges are of less quality than those pre-2011. I have never had an issue with any of my Axis with the original Gotoh. At first the fine tuner became sticky, then it started wobble still being able to hold tune, then it became more free as time went on.
Interestingly, tuning stability on my Yucatan Blue Axis is rock solid, but the BFR is consistently a full half-step flat every 24 hours. But ONLY the BFR. My JP6? No problems! Strat? No Problems! Standard Axis? No problems! But the BFR is just... always slipping across all strings! And I can't figure out why! Neck relief is fine. My bridge isn't dipping, I like resistance so I keep a lot of tension in the springs.

What the heck? lol
 

dean701

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Messages
100
Location
Barrie, Canada
Interestingly, tuning stability on my Yucatan Blue Axis is rock solid, but the BFR is consistently a full half-step flat every 24 hours. But ONLY the BFR. My JP6? No problems! Strat? No Problems! Standard Axis? No problems! But the BFR is just... always slipping across all strings! And I can't figure out why! Neck relief is fine. My bridge isn't dipping, I like resistance so I keep a lot of tension in the springs.

What the heck? lol
not really commenting on tuning stability from the bridge standpoint, but the metal is clearly not great given the fine tuner stripping issue.

For tuning stability:
I ended up chatting myself up here, there may be some notes that help although it is mostly for the vintage trem and nut stuff.



For the Floyd, make sure the nut is secure. Clamp the nut blocks and then loosen the tuners to see if the nut blocks are in fact holding the pitch. For the bridge, make sure all of your springs are of the same strength. For tension, I would lessen the spring tension to the point where single string bends don't affect bridge movement but not a lot more. You don't want the springs jerking the bridge back aggressively.
Other stuff:
Make sure the strings are properly stretched and make sure the saddle inserts are tight. The strings should be straight to the middle of the inserts. I've squished my share of saddle insert blocks in my day. I have a couple bridges with titanium blocks now but I got them when they weren't over the top expensive.

You can also try to track slippage with a Sharpie. I use a fine sharpie and mark the strings at the nut on all strings and take pictures/use a magnifying glass. Then go crazy on the bar and see which sharpie marks have relocated. they won't move much so it takes some time to pinpoint. I have a ruler that measures thousandths.
 
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ngjenkins

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Joined
Aug 8, 2024
Messages
63
Location
Missoula, MT
not really commenting on tuning stability from the bridge standpoint, but the metal is clearly not great given the fine tuner stripping issue.

For tuning stability:
I ended up chatting myself up here, there may be some notes that help although it is mostly for the vintage trem and nut stuff.



For the Floyd, make sure the nut is secure. Clamp the nut blocks and then loosen the tuners to see if the nut blocks are in fact holding the pitch. For the bridge, make sure all of your springs are of the same strength. For tension, I would lessen the spring tension to the point where single string bends don't affect bridge movement but not a lot more. You don't want the springs jerking the bridge back aggressively.
Other stuff:
Make sure the strings are properly stretched and make sure the saddle inserts are tight. The strings should be straight to the middle of the inserts. I've squished my share of saddle insert blocks in my day. I have a couple bridges with titanium blocks now but I got them when they weren't over the top expensive.

You can also try to track slippage with a Sharpie. I use a fine sharpie and mark the strings at the nut on all strings and take pictures/use a magnifying glass. Then go crazy on the bar and see which sharpie marks have relocated. they won't move much so it takes some time to pinpoint. I have a ruler that measures thousandths.
Tried the tuning head trick and there was ZERO movement.

I'll try the sharpie thing next to see what that tells me.
 

dean701

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Joined
Jan 28, 2014
Messages
100
Location
Barrie, Canada
Tried the tuning head trick and there was ZERO movement.

I'll try the sharpie thing next to see what that tells me.
Ok. If the pitch is slipping/lowering over time as you said, then something is moving.
Bridge, nut, neck, saddle. It's one of them. Although the hard cases were built to accommodate a connected bar, I did have one case where it was pushing the bar down while in the case. It would take pressure off the neck while in the case and cause the neck to straighten and bow back and forth when going back and forth from the case. I take that bar off now when transferring to the case.
 

GoKart Mozart

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Nov 21, 2002
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1,061
Location
Florence/Muscle Shoals, AL
Side note, I enjoy that we both have our Yucatan Flame Axis in our avatars and I have to look close to find my strap to know who is who :D

One of you guys should rotate your avatar pic 90 degrees or something since they look so similar at a quick glance. I was getting confused thinking it was the same person replying to themselves over and over. :p
 

ngjenkins

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Joined
Aug 8, 2024
Messages
63
Location
Missoula, MT
Well... here's the skinny. It looks like all Floyd Rose branded replacement nuts aren't... QUITE... right. But, this last one comes close. As outlined above, to make it fit perfectly, you have to fill the screw holes in the neck and re-drill them. Which I'm NOT going to do. I'm not comfortable with my wood working and ESPECIALLY not on an expensive guitar.

As it sits, the new nut is perfect on the treble side, but the bass side is too high (best picture I could get is below. Which... ugh... not sure what my next step is here. I don't want to try to file a metal nut down. Again, my skills are limited.

So, overall, there's no 1:1 replacement that you can buy. But, an R2 gets close enough for my taste. It's just that it's not quite low enough on the bass side.

IMG_6512.JPG
 

dean701

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Joined
Jan 28, 2014
Messages
100
Location
Barrie, Canada
You only have a few options: file the nut or sand the wood under the nut (I use a popsicle stick with 320/600 sandpaper) or bring it in somewhere. Regardless, the holes would need to be filled to secure the new nut properly.

To be honest, there is no real drop in solution for any guitar. Sure, it would be nice if the holes aligned but this is all part of nut replacement and setup. As frets wear over time the distance increases between the string and the frets, constituting the need to adjust the nut height accordingly. Nut height also needs to be adjusted when guitars get re-fretted.
 
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Norrin Radd

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Jul 20, 2004
Messages
2,908
Location
Saint Paul
If it were mine, I would take it to a trusted technician and have it done to fit the new nut. The new nut that you’ve got is the same one that they have been producing forever, right? So if you have the groove holes filled and then the nut slot sanded to fit the new nut, you should be good for the rest of the life of the guitar. It’s worth doing once!
 

ngjenkins

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Joined
Aug 8, 2024
Messages
63
Location
Missoula, MT
If it were mine, I would take it to a trusted technician and have it done to fit the new nut. The new nut that you’ve got is the same one that they have been producing forever, right? So if you have the groove filled and sanded to fit the new nut, you should be good for the rest of the life of the guitar. It’s worth doing once!
I don't disagree with you. I've just not found someone here in Missoula who fits the bill of "trusted technician." I'm sure there are some people, just not that I know and have had success with. Electronics and "normal" nut replacement, sure. But this kind of thing... I'm just not aware of anyone. I have a telecaster that desperately needs a refret but, again, I just can't seem to find anyone in town to do it.
 

Norrin Radd

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Joined
Jul 20, 2004
Messages
2,908
Location
Saint Paul
I don't disagree with you. I've just not found someone here in Missoula who fits the bill of "trusted technician." I'm sure there are some people, just not that I know and have had success with. Electronics and "normal" nut replacement, sure. But this kind of thing... I'm just not aware of anyone. I have a telecaster that desperately needs a refret but, again, I just can't seem to find anyone in town to do it.
Good luck finding someone! If you were in Minnesota, I know exactly who I’d tell you to take it to!
 

dean701

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Joined
Jan 28, 2014
Messages
100
Location
Barrie, Canada
Diagrams for further info.

specs for the Schaller R2

1740038003516.png

Specs for the Gotoh FGR-1


1740038084784.png

specs for the Floyd Original R2



1740038030232.png
 
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ngjenkins

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 8, 2024
Messages
63
Location
Missoula, MT
not really commenting on tuning stability from the bridge standpoint, but the metal is clearly not great given the fine tuner stripping issue.

For tuning stability:
I ended up chatting myself up here, there may be some notes that help although it is mostly for the vintage trem and nut stuff.



For the Floyd, make sure the nut is secure. Clamp the nut blocks and then loosen the tuners to see if the nut blocks are in fact holding the pitch. For the bridge, make sure all of your springs are of the same strength. For tension, I would lessen the spring tension to the point where single string bends don't affect bridge movement but not a lot more. You don't want the springs jerking the bridge back aggressively.
Other stuff:
Make sure the strings are properly stretched and make sure the saddle inserts are tight. The strings should be straight to the middle of the inserts. I've squished my share of saddle insert blocks in my day. I have a couple bridges with titanium blocks now but I got them when they weren't over the top expensive.

You can also try to track slippage with a Sharpie. I use a fine sharpie and mark the strings at the nut on all strings and take pictures/use a magnifying glass. Then go crazy on the bar and see which sharpie marks have relocated. they won't move much so it takes some time to pinpoint. I have a ruler that measures thousandths.
I found the culprit!

You were correct that tension wasn't quite right on the springs. Readjusted and tuning has been SOLID for 48 hours. Thanks!!!
 
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