Why on Earth did the REFLEX not Take OFF? Video

[dean701]

That is very intriguing. Maybe the next test for my Silo Special. I am with you on the tuning stability but I have never been great at perfectly dialing in trem guitars. I have had a couple that were exceptional but all others were frustrating to the point that now I just deck them with the ability for down only light trem work that keeps me out of trouble.

troubleshooting floating bridges can be quite a challenge so I usually deck them to troubleshoot. when decked if there are still issues, I use a fine sharpie and mark the strings at the saddle and nut points on all strings and take pictures/use a magnifying glass. Then go crazy on the bar and see which sharpie marks have relocated. they won't move much so it takes some time to pinpoint. if there are multiple issues it can be very challenging. Hence why I just replace the nuts and the saddles.

 

[dean701]

What Schaller direct replacement Gotoh's are those? SG381-01?

GOTOH SG381 MGT - Locking Tuning Machine w/ Large Button - Pre-Configured Sets - Philadelphia Luthier Tools & Supplies, LLC

Mini plastic pearl buttons.

Gotoh SG381-05P1 MGT L4+R2

I went through Guitarhey this time around NEW Gotoh SG381-05P1 MGT L4+R2 Set Mini Locking Tuners OVAL Buttons 4x2, CHROME | eBay
although I have purchased from Philadelphia previously.

 

[nervous]

Mini plastic pearl buttons.

Gotoh SG381-05P1 MGT L4+R2

I went through Guitarhey this time around NEW Gotoh SG381-05P1 MGT L4+R2 Set Mini Locking Tuners OVAL Buttons 4x2, CHROME | eBay
although I have purchased from Philadelphia previously.

Good stuff all around. I like the creative problem solving of it all and love the new options. Thank you.

 

[nervous]

exactly. the hex screw is on a pivot point and as you tighten it locks the string in place.
back story:
I have been playing Axis super sports since '98.
I had some tuning stability issues with a few over the years (some nut, some saddle related) so I adopted my own process over time. They all get graphtech nuts and locking saddles and it makes them rock solid. I have them on 6 guitars. I can do ridiculous dive bombs and bar antics and it brings them to par with my floyd guitars.
I have been using Wilkinson WLS130s since they came out. This time around, I thought I would give the Gotoh product a try. I think the LS came out in '23

View attachment 47284

View attachment 47286

Between the Gotoh and the Wilkinson saddles, which do you prefer? While the Wilkinson has a nice simplicity it looks like it may not be available anymore anyway so the point may be moot.

 

[dean701]

Between the Gotoh and the Wilkinson saddles, which do you prefer? While the Wilkinson has a nice simplicity it looks like it may not be available anymore anyway so the point may be moot.

the jury is still out. The Wilkinson goes out of stock often but they are definitely still making them as they are standard fare on some guitars. I've spoken to Kate Brannigan quite often on how they are often out of stock. She is very friendly and they waived shipping charges for me when I bought my 5th set.. Wilkinson has a direct shop on Reverb. https://reverb.com/ca/item/24879182-wilkinson-wls130-s-locking-steel-saddles
If you add yourself to the watch list, they will come up soon. I'm not sure if Gotoh make these for Wilkinson but they do make other stuff for them including the VS and VG bridges.

It looks like there is a line up developing.



I think the Wilkinson design is better from an effectiveness point of view. A screw in direct contact with the string will definitely hold. The Gotoh is more aesthetically pleasing. I'll have to see how that finger holds out. With too much pressure, I can imagine the metal finger bending. Maybe not.



Since I'm apparently on a roll, I'll throw out a few other things to look for that I've learned over my 40 year 100 guitar journey.

Tuners: watch for scoring on the unwound strings. 20 years of holding finer strings can create gouges in the tuners. For slipping: Pull on the strings to see if they are slipping. Not too much, they are intended to hold ~30 pounds.
For floyd locking nuts, make sure the string blocks are holding. with the nut locked, loosen the tension at the tuner to make sure the pitch remains the same. If it isn't then the block isn't tight enough or a problem.

Saddles: scoring can happen and the string can get caught at the bridge plate.
Watch out for rounded piezo saddles. IMO, an awful design. Why would you have a saddle where the string can slide back and forth. Once again my opinion.

Finishing : birchwood casey tru oil and wax on maple, nomad f1 on rosewood. Meguiar's 2 (fine cut), 9 (swirl remover) and 7 (car show glaze) to remove scratches, fingernail marks and to gloss it up. (why these particular Meguiar's products? no silicone content) M105 if the scratches are deeper. Nomad carnauba wax is great too for the final finish.

Fret finishing: Metal fretboard protectors suck, just use masking tape. Level with a bar with 320 then 600, crown with a fretguru and a sharpie, finish sand with 800, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000 then Nomad Frine polish with a soft cloth. I use Kovax stuck to my finger but any sandpaper will do.

Scratchy potentiometers - flush them with DeoxIT D5 and spin them (no need to replace them until you try this)

For nuts, I subscribe to shaping the nuts perfectly. Most factory built guitars have sub-optimal cuts.

Diagrams are courtesy of Nuts - how to cut the slots
Dan also presents a good video about it here:

Bridge plate setup:

I've seen the following in many places but I may as well put it here for completeness. Some people put the plate too high, which will slip on crazy dive bombs, too low and it will have problems resetting to the same location as it will be grinding into the body)
Floyds are way more tolerant to varying plate heights.

Setting up the bridge plate height as listed on the EBMM FAQ: (fyi, a post it note is around .003 to .004 inches - I use a feeler gauge)

Music Man Vintage Style Tremolo

1. String the guitar
2. Set the bridge plate
a. Tune up the inner 4 strings (A,D,G,B) until some amount of string tension is placed on the trem system.
i. Having both spring and string tension will help keep the bridge from “jumping” on the pivot screws and closer to its natural resting place while performing the setup.
ii. Full string tension, tuned to exact pitch, is not necessary.
iii. Tension is only placed on the inner 4 strings as to not permanently nick the outer strings while adjusting the pivot screws.
b. Adjust the bass side of the bridge plate using the bass side pivot screw (4mm hex drive) until there is a small gap between the bridge plate and body at the front of the plate (front is nearest the pivot screw).
i. You should be able to slide a Post-It note between the plate (near the pivot screw) and body without it pinching.
c. Repeat step b on the treble side.
d. Adjust the tremolo claw screws in the back to allow both back corners (nearest the intonation screws) of the bridge plate to rest on the body.
i. Tune the outer high and low "E" strings and re-check the inner 4 to make sure all strings are tuned to pitch.
ii. Re-check the bass side screw to ensure there is still a gap between the plate and body, and re-adjust if necessary.
e. Move the trem through its full range of motion. If the front edge of the plate contacts the face of the body near the pivot screws, raise the bridge slightly until it moves unimpeded.
3. Ensure the tremolo springs have enough tension so that when tuned to pitch, the bridge plate doesn't lift off the body.
a. If the plate lifts, tighten the tremolo claw screws to add appropriate spring tension.
4. Follow the instructions for a hardtail guitar setup.

First, check relief in the neck by holding the lowest (bass) string down on the second fret with your fretting hand, then hold it down on the 12th fret with your right thumb and tap on the string in the middle to show how straight the string is. It should be no more than the thickness of a thick business card. If there is no relief in the neck, applying a little pressure in the middle of the neck (downward) after adjusting the truss rod wheel should take care of it. If not, please contact us as it may be necessary to send the instrument to the factory.

Factory string setting for standard tuning starts at the bass side 2/32" (1.59 mm) to 5/64" (1.98 mm) and the treble side is 3/64" (1.19 mm) to 2/32" (1.59 mm) measured from the 12th fret to the bottom of the strings. The top of the strings should have the radius of the fretboard when you are looking at the strings in the playing position and by rotating the instrument while at the same time bringing strings into view one at a time. Remember, string height is ultimately determined by your preference and playing style.

Now, you are ready to play your guitar. If a string buzzes on an open string to the 5th fret and no higher, more relief is needed. If there is more buzz from the 5th to the 12th fret, the neck needs to be straighter. You should check the string height after every adjustment. If the buzzing happens throughout the neck, the string height needs to be increased.

Experiment a little to get the exact action you want.

5. Dial in the tremolo spring claw for the appropriate tension for your preference.
a. From the factory, the tremolo is set to remain flat on the body if a note is bent a full step or less.
b. Bend the G note at the 12th fret to an A, and check if the bridge is lifting.
c. Adjust the spring claw so the bridge begins to lift when this note is bent beyond an A.
6. Double check the setup and enjoy!!

5000 things you never asked to hear but I guess I just wanted to talk.
Cheers.