Standard vs BFR
- Thread starter alee
- Start date
JayDawg
Well-known member
I really like the BFR versions. But I guess it would also depend on what the standard model was and how it looked? Some of them I really like too.
Drakemonta21
Active member
I like some standards and BFRs. What model are you looking at?
meckintosh
Well-known member
Depends totally on the model in my opinion.
Metalcat
Well-known member
Totally depends on the model like others have said. If it was a JP, I'd go for a BFR because I already have the standard...but even then there are a wide range of JP models listed as BFRs.
But as for every other guitar model, it just depends on what's available and what I'm looking for in a guitar.
But as for every other guitar model, it just depends on what's available and what I'm looking for in a guitar.
Tollywood
Well-known member
I like the BFRs. I love the famly crest at the 12th fret. The font is classy.
I know there's some mention of abandoning the 12th fret BFR inlay for a special neck plate...blah! Do both, or leave it as is, please...
I know there's some mention of abandoning the 12th fret BFR inlay for a special neck plate...blah! Do both, or leave it as is, please...
I absolutely hate the crest at the 12th fret. In fact so much so that it has stopped me from buying a Petrucci model that otherwise I absolutely loved. From at distance it looks like some sticker from the factory that should come off. It takes away from the overall beauty of Music Man guitars.
Sweat
Well-known member
Well a BFR can be anything the Ball Family wants, does not necessarily mean maple quilt , tone woods etc. but if you are talking original Luke or JP BFR I prefer the originals, my preference.
musikarero
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2004
- Messages
- 594
I respect your opinion but wow I couldn't disagree more.
I'm a woodworker by trade and really appreciate the wood and craftsmanship that goes into the Music Man instruments. I just don't like seeing the crest stuck in the middle of a beautiful wood neck. I might be in the minority on this but that's ok, I'm happy with my non-crested Y2D.
wired
Well-known member
Would love to try a BFR Axis to see how it sounds w the mahogany tone block.
Lax
Well-known member
I know have a JP12 as a replacement for my ex two JP6...I have at least the same pleasure to play on it ^^
My fears are gone, I thought I couldn't play on a vernished neck.
My fears are gone, I thought I couldn't play on a vernished neck.
@alee: A lot of the responses here are were kind of "here's what I prefer" but don't talk about the differences between BFR's and non-BFR's and how to approach making the decision. What's important to note here is that BFR means different things for different models, and it really is all about what appeals more to you. From a marketing perspective I suppose it implies that Ball Family Reserve is "better", although really I think it's just mostly "different with a better figured top".
What it should always come down to is: (A) Do I like how it FEELS; (B) Do I like how it PLAYS; (C) Do I like how it SOUNDS; and (D) Do I like how it LOOKS. All the opinions above are these folks' impressions and answers to these 4 criteria. But it's important for YOU to check them out and decide YOUR ANSWERS to the above criteria!
SO... What ARE the differences between the BFR and non-BFR models (I might not get this 100% right but it'll be directionally correct, I hope):
On the Axis models, the BFR model adds a mahogany tone block, usually a better figured maple top, and a set of finish colors that you can't get on the standard Axis. So, basically, the tone block and an upcharge top. So I would recommend trying out a regular Axis and an Axis BFR and comparing the tone to see which you like better. So the Axis BFR compared to the straight Axis:
Feels: BFR feels the same (mostly)
Plays: BFR plays the same (Mostly)
Sounds: BFR sounds a little different due to the tone block
Looks: BFR looks mostly the same except better figured top, special finishes
On the John Petrucci JP models, the difference between the standard JP6 or JP7 and the BFR models is very different. As you can see on the Music Man site, the body shape is different without the forearm scoop/cutout. And for the body, on the standard it's basswood with an opaque paint job, whereas the BFR has a figured maple top on basswood body or even a Koa top on a mahogany body. So in this case, the BFR is CHANGING rather than just upgrading stuff. So the JP BFR compared to the straight JP:
Feels: BFR feels very different
Plays: BFR plays different
Sounds: BFR sounds different
Looks: BFR looks very different
On the Albert Lee models, the difference between the standard AL and the BFR AL is kind of similar to the Axis. The BFR has a bookmatched figured maple top, a mahogany tone block, and a special color (Pink Burst). Otherwise, it is the same guitar. So the AL BFR compared to the straight AL:
Feels: BFR feels the same (mostly)
Plays: BFR plays the same (Mostly)
Sounds: BFR sounds a little different due to the tone block
Looks: BFR looks mostly the same except figured top, special finish
On the Luke models, the difference between the standard Luke and the BFR Luke is a bit more than the Axis but not as much as the JP (because the body shape isn't changing). The BFR has a bookmatched maple top with a mahogany tone block *OR* a koa top with all mahogany body. So the Luke BFR compared to the straight Luke:
Feels: BFR feels the same (mostly)
Plays: BFR plays the same (Mostly)
Sounds: BFR sounds different
Looks: BFR looks very different
Then when you look at the JPX, JPXI, JP12 and JP13 -- all bets are off. These are all BFR's because they're "special". But they don't have a non-BFR counterpart...
Hope this helps?
Good luck making your decision!
Regards,
Jeff
What it should always come down to is: (A) Do I like how it FEELS; (B) Do I like how it PLAYS; (C) Do I like how it SOUNDS; and (D) Do I like how it LOOKS. All the opinions above are these folks' impressions and answers to these 4 criteria. But it's important for YOU to check them out and decide YOUR ANSWERS to the above criteria!
SO... What ARE the differences between the BFR and non-BFR models (I might not get this 100% right but it'll be directionally correct, I hope):
On the Axis models, the BFR model adds a mahogany tone block, usually a better figured maple top, and a set of finish colors that you can't get on the standard Axis. So, basically, the tone block and an upcharge top. So I would recommend trying out a regular Axis and an Axis BFR and comparing the tone to see which you like better. So the Axis BFR compared to the straight Axis:
Feels: BFR feels the same (mostly)
Plays: BFR plays the same (Mostly)
Sounds: BFR sounds a little different due to the tone block
Looks: BFR looks mostly the same except better figured top, special finishes
On the John Petrucci JP models, the difference between the standard JP6 or JP7 and the BFR models is very different. As you can see on the Music Man site, the body shape is different without the forearm scoop/cutout. And for the body, on the standard it's basswood with an opaque paint job, whereas the BFR has a figured maple top on basswood body or even a Koa top on a mahogany body. So in this case, the BFR is CHANGING rather than just upgrading stuff. So the JP BFR compared to the straight JP:
Feels: BFR feels very different
Plays: BFR plays different
Sounds: BFR sounds different
Looks: BFR looks very different
On the Albert Lee models, the difference between the standard AL and the BFR AL is kind of similar to the Axis. The BFR has a bookmatched figured maple top, a mahogany tone block, and a special color (Pink Burst). Otherwise, it is the same guitar. So the AL BFR compared to the straight AL:
Feels: BFR feels the same (mostly)
Plays: BFR plays the same (Mostly)
Sounds: BFR sounds a little different due to the tone block
Looks: BFR looks mostly the same except figured top, special finish
On the Luke models, the difference between the standard Luke and the BFR Luke is a bit more than the Axis but not as much as the JP (because the body shape isn't changing). The BFR has a bookmatched maple top with a mahogany tone block *OR* a koa top with all mahogany body. So the Luke BFR compared to the straight Luke:
Feels: BFR feels the same (mostly)
Plays: BFR plays the same (Mostly)
Sounds: BFR sounds different
Looks: BFR looks very different
Then when you look at the JPX, JPXI, JP12 and JP13 -- all bets are off. These are all BFR's because they're "special". But they don't have a non-BFR counterpart...
Hope this helps?
Good luck making your decision!
Regards,
Jeff
Last edited:
straycat113
Well-known member
Well there is nothing I can really add after that, as that took some effort and was nicely put together Jeff.
I'll just throw one thing in the GC Axis Tributes were a total steal at the price they were and it was a no brainer to go with compared to a BFR Axis. Then again if I remember correctly Jeff knew that and bought the set lol.
I'll just throw one thing in the GC Axis Tributes were a total steal at the price they were and it was a no brainer to go with compared to a BFR Axis. Then again if I remember correctly Jeff knew that and bought the set lol.
