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Darth Tater

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May 16, 2005
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131
adouglas said:
OT, just out of curiosity....

Does the Bongo have anything like a neck adjuster screw, or did you do the loosen-the-bolts-and-insert-a-piece-of-card-stock routine?


It's got the little truss rod wheel adjustment. I turned mine about 1/4 turn and I was good to go. Just had to make up for shifting during shipment, took about 30 seconds :)
 

adouglas

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Darth Tater said:
It's got the little truss rod wheel adjustment. I turned mine about 1/4 turn and I was good to go. Just had to make up for shifting during shipment, took about 30 seconds :)

(Ed. note: The following is WRONG, WRONG, WRONG and was posted that way because before my morning coffee I have the IQ of a kumquat. I am leaving it intact so that you may laugh derisively at my ignorance and stupidity.)


That's not neck relief...that's a trussrod adjustment. Neck relief refers to the angle of the neck itself relative to the body. The trussrod just compensates for the pull of the strings (i.e. takes the bow out of the neck).

Some (few) bolt-on basses have a little set screw that lets you adjust neck relief. You loosen the neck bolts, turn the screw in or out, then re-tighten. This changes the angle of the neck up or down relative to the body. Bolt-ons that don't have this screw require you to loosen the bolts and insert a thin shim (card stock is the usual thing) in between the neck and the neck pocket, after which you re-tighten the bolts.

Generally speaking this is not required, especially on high-quality instruments...so it surprised me when you said you needed to adjust yours.

Trussrod adjustments are another thing. I don't own a MM bass (yet), so I don't know how sensitive they are, but I tweak the trussrod on my Carvins anywhere from 2-4 times a year as the temperature and humidity change.

One thing I really like about MMs is the trussrod adjuster wheel. No need to keep a special wrench on hand, no need to remove a stupid plastic cover with its wretched little screws (I've taken to just leaving mine off).
 
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bassmonkeee

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adouglas said:
That's not neck relief...that's a trussrod adjustment. Neck relief refers to the angle of the neck itself relative to the body. The trussrod just compensates for the pull of the strings (i.e. takes the bow out of the neck).

Some (few) bolt-on basses have a little set screw that lets you adjust neck relief. You loosen the neck bolts, turn the screw in or out, then re-tighten. This changes the angle of the neck up or down relative to the body. Bolt-ons that don't have this screw require you to loosen the bolts and insert a thin shim (card stock is the usual thing) in between the neck and the neck pocket, after which you re-tighten the bolts.

Generally speaking this is not required, especially on high-quality instruments...so it surprised me when you said you needed to adjust yours.

Trussrod adjustments are another thing. I don't own a MM bass (yet), so I don't know how sensitive they are, but I tweak the trussrod on my Carvins anywhere from 2-4 times a year as the temperature and humidity change.

One thing I really like about MMs is the trussrod adjuster wheel. No need to keep a special wrench on hand, no need to remove a stupid plastic cover with its wretched little screws (I've taken to just leaving mine off).

Actually, he is 100% correct, and you are mistaken. The truss rod does adjust neck relief (otherwise known as up bow). You're referring to neck angle or tilt, which is what is affected by any set screws, or shims.

But, to answer your question, the Bongos do not have any tilt adjustments like the 70s 3 bolt Fenders.
 

Darth Tater

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Dang, I thought I was wrong there for a second! After 15 years of adjusting neck relief with the truss rod I sure would have felt like an arse if I had been calling it the wrong thing ;)

I would think the micro-tilt or 'shim' thing would be very much obsolete on modern basses.
 

enjoneer

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Aug 4, 2005
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After inspecting some Bongos here at the factory it is apparent that in some cases the A and D strings indeed have no, or very little, contact with the string tree. However, on all the basses we inspected there was enough downward pressure on the strings to keep them in place and playing like they should. The amount of contact will vary depending on string gage, nut slot height and number of winds around the machine head posts.

In response to this observation by our sharp forumites, we have decided to move the string tree closer to the nut so that the strings will always come into contact with the tree. Consider this a gift to all future Bongo owners from the EB Forum. Thanks guys!
 

Big Poppa

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Darth

Enjoneer ansered the issue but nobody has asaid what about your bass. Please contact dan at 866-823-2255 and give him an address so we can send a pickup for the bass. We will pay the freight both ways and fix it asap. Thanks for the heads up and sorry for the problem

By the way strings whould be would starting HIGH on the post with the final wrap oon the bottom of the post this is the best for downward pressure and tone.
 

JohnElevator

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Jun 30, 2005
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The customer relations in Ernie Ball never fails to impress me, especially when the owner of the company can admit theres a problem and personally takes care of it.
 

tkarter

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BP and crew are the best in the business at taking care of customers IMHO.

I am now and have been a sold for a lifetime EB player.


tk
 

bassmonkeee

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adouglas said:
Gak! You are of course absolutely right! What WAS I thinking, anyway?

Note to self: Drink morning coffee BEFORE posting.

:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

Sorry about that. Usually I do kinda sorta know what I'm talking about. Enough to be dangerous, at any rate.


Heh. It happens to the best of us. And, by "best of us," I mean--ME. :cool:
 

Disquieter

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Apr 23, 2004
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Decided to dig up an old post, I used the search function and found my problem addressed here.

I've got a BC bongo 5HH that is incredible, but the A string rattles because of no downward tension. it touches the tree slightly, but not enough to apply pressure.


what can us bongo owners who still have this problem do to fix this?

I understand you can't ship every bongo back to the factory, so I'm asking if theres a solution I can do myself?


is there a slightly shorter tree available that I can swap this one with?


not that big of a deal, it just bugs me to have a rattle on my open A when it's a key note in one of my songs (kind of pedaling it.)



any ideas from the SLO crew?

thanks
joel D.
 

midopa

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Just off the top of my head: How about putting a small piece of cloth or something in between the string and the tree?
 

Oldtoe

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Jon, can you post how much needs to come off the string tree to make it right? My guitar player runs a machine shop.
 

jongitarz

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Ben...I will find out on Monday. Although I have done 3 years in the EB/MM machine shop, I didn't have these done.It was enjoneer(the guy who stole my name and birthday! :eek: ) who had them made. Bump the thread if I forget.
 

tkarter

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Just take the one off and file it down until you get what you want.

Not at all hard to do. IMHO


tk
 
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