Question Stupid question: do I use the gun oil method on my fretboard as well as the neck?

[R.B. Huckleberr]

I know some substances can cause frets to lift.

Tru-Oil worked wonders on the back of the neck

 

[Razzle]

No! Tru Oil will actually dry hard.

The only thing I'd recommend on the fretboard is Lemon Oil, and get pure Lemon Oil (not full of additives).

 

[R.B. Huckleberr]

No! Tru Oil will actually dry hard.

The only thing I'd recommend on the fretboard is Lemon Oil, and get pure Lemon Oil (not full of additives).

Thanks!

 

[beej]

Having had frets lift, I'm somewhat careful about putting anything on my fretboards unless they're really dry.

 

[R.B. Huckleberr]

Taking no chances. Ordered the Wonder Wipes!

 

[mikeller]

So, is Wonder Wipes safe for frequent use on fingerboards?

I ask because I wipe my fingerboard(s) with it on most string changes, which, depending on guitar and humidty levels and gig schedule can be several times a month? That said, i take it off quickly with a clean t-shirt rag, so doesn't soak in much at all. Should I consider backing off on that?

 

[spychocyco]

On a similar neck care note, anyone used Scotch-Brite instead of sandpaper to prepare their neck for the oil and wax treatment? I saw a suggestion for it elsewhere, and I used some ultra-fine last night on a non-EBMM neck that had a sticky finish. It slicked it up nicely, but I did notice it took more finish than I expected, hence my question.

 

[mikeller]

On a similar neck care note, anyone used Scotch-Brite instead of sandpaper to prepare their neck for the oil and wax treatment? I saw a suggestion for it elsewhere, and I used some ultra-fine last night on a non-EBMM neck that had a sticky finish. It slicked it up nicely, but I did notice it took more finish than I expected, hence my question.

I wipe mine with a lightly moistened t-shirt rag with diluted Murphys Oil soap, drying quickly and thoroughly with fresh paper towels. I haven't need to sand yet.

 

[DrKev]

I ask because I wipe my fingerboard(s) with it on most string changes, which, depending on guitar and humidty levels and gig schedule can be several times a month? That said, i take it off quickly with a clean t-shirt rag, so doesn't soak in much at all. Should I consider backing off on that?

I think it'll be just fine but I don't do it as frequently as you do, maybe just every few months. But it's not as if, as some people do with lemon oil, you're pouring oil on and rubbing it on with your fingers, which is way too much. When I use wonderwipes I use paper towels to immediately remove oil and buff.

Or you can use a soft damp sponge to clean, buff with paper towels. In fact I even used a little soap for years, with zero unwanted consequences...

Put a single drop of dish soap on the sponge, wet it througly and get a little lather up and then hand wring the sponge to lightly damp or almost dry. Use that to clean and then follow with paper towels to finish cleaning, dry surface moisture, and buff. Works a treat. Do NOT use the scratchy side of dish washing sponges, no matter which type you choose, they'll scratch up a finger board.

 

[mistercharlie]

On a similar neck care note, anyone used Scotch-Brite instead of sandpaper to prepare their neck for the oil and wax treatment? I saw a suggestion for it elsewhere, and I used some ultra-fine last night on a non-EBMM neck that had a sticky finish. It slicked it up nicely, but I did notice it took more finish than I expected, hence my question.

Once a year, when I re-apply gunstock oil and wax, I use a scotchbrite-type pad to give it a light rundown first.

 

[Twang Banger]

I am an amateur, so take this with a grain of salt ... If by gun oil you mean Tru Oil, I would never put it on the fretboard. It creates almost a lacquer-like finish that would never want to have there. In fact, I would not pit in on guitar part I did not want to ruin (or leave shiny/glossy).

This guitar body has Tru Oil on it, as an example.

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[Twang Banger]

I am an amateur, so take this with a grain of salt ... If by gun oil you mean Tru Oil, I would never put it on the fretboard. It creates almost a lacquer-like finish that would never want to have there. In fact, I would not pit in on guitar part I did not want to ruin (or leave shiny/glossy).

This guitar body has Tru Oil on it, as an example.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

PUT, not "pit".


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[DrKev]

I am an amateur, so take this with a grain of salt ... If by gun oil you mean Tru Oil, I would never put it on the fretboard. It creates almost a lacquer-like finish that would never want to have there. In fact, I would not pit in on guitar part I did not want to ruin (or leave shiny/glossy).

This guitar body has Tru Oil on it, as an example.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Tru-Oil as we use it on Music man guitar necks is a light surface treatment on unfinished wood; a small amount on a paper towel, wipe on evenly and wipe straight off and buff with clean paper towels. Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil is the recommended product (though any similar gunstock oil will do) often followed by an identical light treatment of BC Gunstock Wax.

As it's done on that guitar body it's an actual "finish" of of Tru-Oil ( as people do on gunstocks): many multiple coats, usually allowed to dry and sanded back and usually left to harden dry for many weeks before final buffing and polishing. It's a very different use of Tru-Oil to what we do on our guitar necks.

 

[BrickGlass]

To answer the op's question, doesn't it depend on what type of fretboard you have? If you have an unfinished maple fretboard I don't see why you wouldn't do the same thing to it as you did the neck, assuming the neck is unfinished maple too.

 

[Ched]

I always wipe my MM90 BFR fret board with Fast Fret before and after playing. Just a quick wipe.
Every 3 months or so I clean and feed the fretboard and neck with lemon oil (Dunlop 65)
Lemon Oil has been confirmed as being a suitable alternative by MM Customer Services.
If later down the line I find it needs further attention, i will probably follow this Gun Stock wax method:

 

[EBMM_EVH_1992]

Lemon Oil still has acidity. I'd recommend MusicNomad's F-ONE oil :

• Dries fast, but maintains conditioning for months due to our revolutionary formula
• 100% Free from Lemon Extracts it is safe on all unfinished Fretboards including Maple
• 100% Natural Oils ultra-refined to Clean, Condition & Protect
• Used by High End Repair Shops due to its premium quality
• Contains no petroleum, wax, detergents or water.

 

[TripHazard]

this stuff is good:

Monty's Instrument Food - The Original Guitar Nourishing Wax – Monty's Guitars

 

[hbucker]

I use Murphy's and a soft bristled toothbrush to get fretbard gunk off. Then wipe it really well with lemon oil. - Has worked well for 20+ years now.

I wouldn't apply Casey's or Tung Oil to a used neck any more than I'd spray it with new poly or lacquer.