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Chaka5150

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figured easiest to create a new post as this is related but specific to the actual installation process. In another post I mentioned that I'm changing the pickups in my Axis to : AT-1 F spaced for my bridge and 36th anniversary (reg spaced) DP103 for the neck.

This will be my first time attempting pickup installation. I'm generally pretty handy with things so don't feel this is beyond me but would appreciate any tips from those who have experience.

any out of the ordinary things I should keep an eye on particular to musicman guitar electronics?
Blocking the trem? best practice?
soldering tips?

Cheers
 

JamieCrain

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A good soldering iron. And take a photo of the original set up before you start. ;)
 

Chaka5150

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thx for the reply. Good idear re: taking pic. Only tricky part in this guitar is that it had been previously modded with pickup mounting rings to accommodate active pickups I had installed years ago. I never should have done that but alas here I am. its just aesthetics mainly and well some would say tone affected by not being directly mounted to body. negligible to my ears.

My main concern is how long its safe to leave strings off the neck , sans tension? and best way to block the trem so that when I flip it over it wont slip off the posts.
 

Chaka5150

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Thanks Jamminjim for the reply. Seems not many around here do their own pickup installs or just not seeing this thread? anyhow , I'm not planning on leaving strings off long...well as long as it takes me to solder the connections. Speaking of which, I have had a heck of a time finding solder that is easy to work with. From what I've researched a lot of people have used the 60/40 leaded stuff for years but that is harder to find around my area. Mostly rosin core (which I understand is desirable) but non leaded - silver. the problem with the silver solder is that it has a higher melting point. I believe it is rated at 445 degrees. Proper soldering technique is to not touch the solder to the iron tip but rather heat the joint/wire and let the solder melt ...flowing in direction of heat. I'm using a weller 40 watt and cannot get this solder to melt without the aid of the iron tip touching it...otherwise the wires get so incredibly hot before solder melts. BTW, i have only been practicing on some basic wire on some spare metal parts to get a feel for this.

I may just order some solder from stewmac. If anyone chimes in...this would be helpful. what solder do you use with ease and good results.
 
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jamminjim

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Chaka5150

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Sweet. Thanks man. exactly the kind of tips I was after. I have scoured my city looking for solder , even the electronic supply stores that are here and not much to choose from. Basic application kinda stuff but not suitable for guitar work. I'll buy this stuff online. Cheers
 

Chaka5150

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Hi Chaka , plenty of people change their own pickups... they might not be as active in this forum as they once were.../
As for solder, I use this stuff and also the Kester paste flux in a little blue tin.. (which is antique by now )

Kester "44" 1 lb 60/40 Solder .031" Diameter

| TubeDepot.com


Kester Solder - 83-0000-0001 - SP-30 Highly active flux Acid Paste Solder - Allied Electronics

yes you need the correct solder not that silver solder stuff..

To clarify, do you use the flux in conjuction with the Kester solder? Is that 60/40 solder rosin core? I"m not versed in the nomenclature of solders but it does say RA (rosin activated) . I"m not sure if that is the same as a product that is 'rosin core'. reason i ask...*edit** I'm gonna answer my own question. derp. Been researching it and think i know what this is now. Managed to find some at a store in town..not kester but has the same specs as the Kester. Curious to see how different this will be to work with vs the silver solder.
 
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jamminjim

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Yes, I do use the Kester paste in addition to the rosin core 60/40 solder, makes for a very clean and solid joint. As I have an old tin container that Kester used to use (back when dinosaurs roamed the earth) I dip my solder into the paste to get a little on it and then solder the joint. I also use it on solder wick which is used for de-soldering, makes the wick suck like a Dyson. LOL You' prolly have to order solder supplies online, make sure to get all you need once as yer paying shipping.
 

Chaka5150

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haha suck like a Dyson. nice. I have a bulb and some of those braided strips. messed around with that a bit last night. heh. I should have just named this thread something about soldering since that's mainly what I'm trying to figure out. I know some shudder at the thought of messing around with their precious balls (cue laugh track) but my Axis has already been modded somewhat. I'm never gonna sell it anyhow, plus I'm interested to learn how to do this so the next time I feel like changing pickups i'll know how.

I did see a flux pen at the supply store...maybe I'll pick that up. Practiced a bit last night and the soldering skills are getting there. much easier to work with than the silver, no doubt there. Looking forward to these new dimarzios. suppose I should study the wiring next to see if the suhr's are much different.
 
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Chaka5150

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Jamminjim, When you use the flux paste, do you apply that to each component that is to be joined? For example. Like tinning the wire first and also the lug. So when connect the hot to the 3 way switch in my Axis. Would you apply the flux to the wire and also the connecting point on the switch for a real clean joint?

also...

IMG_7186.jpg IMG_7187.jpg


Here is pic of what is currently installed. These are the Suhr Dough Aldrich pickups. I've researched that Suhr's wiring coloring code is the same as Seymour Duncan. Key difference is that the black is hot for Suhr/duncan and Dimarizo the hot is Red.

My intention is to just to replicate where the wiring is soldered currently but factoring the Red for Black (hot) with the Dimarzios. Does this sound like a reasonable approach? Please let me know if I"m missing anything obvious.
Note: I see the previous guitar Tech (who installed the Suhr's ) took the bare wire from each pickup and spliced it with the ground (green) leading to the pot. According to Dimarzio's wiring schematic for basic dual humbuckers in series is to just take the green and bare to the switch for ground...so this has me curious.
 
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jamminjim

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I just apply it to the solder wire, it melts and then flows into the solder when you apply it. No need to put it on the terminal.
You can though wouldn't hurt anything.
 

jamminjim

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If you are installing DiMarzio's back into your Axis, and you don't know where the wires go, I would email MM Customer Service and ask them to send you the wiring diagram for the year model Axis you have. They will send it to you promptly.
I only have wiring diagrams for the ASS and the Sport.
With the correct wiring diagram in hand it should be a piece of cake.

There are more differences between Duncan/Suhr and DiMarzio pickup winds.. take a look at this.

GuitarElectronics.com - Guitar & Bass 4-Wire Humbucker Color Code Diagrams
 
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