Slingy
Well-known member
It is impossible to angle it that way on my Luke because the round eyelet on the bass side catches on the wall of trem cavity after only a small angle.
- Thread starter fbecir
- Start date
sorry to revive this thread, but has anyone done it a Sterling Silo 30 or a Silhouette before? I'm pretty sure that they have the same bridge as the Luke and AL. Can anyone take a picture of their trem screws? So that I know whether I'm loosening them too much or not.
jsorrien
Member
- Joined
- Nov 16, 2011
- Messages
- 8
Hi, I'm a Newbie here. Just got my first MM a AL HH w/trem. Do I need to raise the two front post? The hole bridge is flat on the body. The setup and string hight is just right and I'm getting some pretty good sustain with the bridge all the way down on the body. But I would like to get some of those cool trem sounds in that video. Also there is some kind of sticker under the back of the bridge. Is that just to protect the finish, should I remove it?
Last edited:
Roubster
Well-known member
Don't touch the trem posts! Just unscrew the trem claw in the back cavity little bit at a time. You have to tune to pitch every time. Depends how much you want to be able to pull upwards.
jsorrien
Member
- Joined
- Nov 16, 2011
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- 8
OK thanks. I have to wait a little longer to try it out. When I bought the AL over a week ago at GC they couldn't find the whammy bar and said that they would order me a new one. Stopped in there today and the guy said he was just ordering it now. That's why I hate to buy anything from big box stores. They just don't give a hoot.
Snakeoil!
Angling the tremolo claw is BS. The fulcrum which is the base plate of the tremolo needs X amount of tension period. Whether you have it (claw) straight or angled is immaterial.
And the fact he sets it to pull up a certain amount is again BS. there is no magic "pull up" setting that makes a guitar stay in tune.
Locking tuners, Graphite nut, good quality trem, use the tap method when tuning....and that's as good as a non-locking guitar can get.
It's not rocket science boys
Angling the tremolo claw is BS. The fulcrum which is the base plate of the tremolo needs X amount of tension period. Whether you have it (claw) straight or angled is immaterial.
And the fact he sets it to pull up a certain amount is again BS. there is no magic "pull up" setting that makes a guitar stay in tune.
Locking tuners, Graphite nut, good quality trem, use the tap method when tuning....and that's as good as a non-locking guitar can get.
It's not rocket science boys
What's the tap method?
jsorrien
Member
- Joined
- Nov 16, 2011
- Messages
- 8
Still don't have my trem bar yet, but I could not wait any longer. Set it up just like the video and Wow! What a different. With out the bar I just use my hand on the bridge and I'm having a blast. I wish I knew this a long time ago. I wouldn't have gotten rid of some nice guitars over the years. And the AL just stay in tune. Never seen anything like it. I keep checking my tuner thinking it's got to be out of tune after that, but it's right on.
I can save you guys the trouble. Just ignore this snake oil.
We were trying these tricks back in the 70s, and truth be told they probably go back earlier than that. It doesn't work.
Personally I set up vintage trems with a block for dive only. I don't let it rest on the body for 2 reasons. #1 when it rests on the body the baseplate tends to raise up in the front bc there are no grooves to hold it in place like a Floyd has. And you have to not screw down the mounting screws bc then you wouldn't be able to use the trem, so its a catch 22 the way it's designed. Blocking the front of the bock changes the leverage from the springs to where the front of the plate can't raise up like it can the other way.
#2 Because the underside of the trem plate is bevelled there is friction where the back edge of the bevel touches the body. The edge travels backwards and forwards on the top of the body that last few mms before the trem returns to it's resting place. So IMO the plate needs to be at a bit of an angle, but in my experience it needs to have a solid resting point to return to.
These are totally my opinions and to be taken as such, but I started pulling my hair out with vintage trems since the late 70s and I've heard just about every trick there is, and tried all of them I ever heard of. Some work but most don't.
This guys tricks are in the last category
We were trying these tricks back in the 70s, and truth be told they probably go back earlier than that. It doesn't work.
Personally I set up vintage trems with a block for dive only. I don't let it rest on the body for 2 reasons. #1 when it rests on the body the baseplate tends to raise up in the front bc there are no grooves to hold it in place like a Floyd has. And you have to not screw down the mounting screws bc then you wouldn't be able to use the trem, so its a catch 22 the way it's designed. Blocking the front of the bock changes the leverage from the springs to where the front of the plate can't raise up like it can the other way.
#2 Because the underside of the trem plate is bevelled there is friction where the back edge of the bevel touches the body. The edge travels backwards and forwards on the top of the body that last few mms before the trem returns to it's resting place. So IMO the plate needs to be at a bit of an angle, but in my experience it needs to have a solid resting point to return to.
These are totally my opinions and to be taken as such, but I started pulling my hair out with vintage trems since the late 70s and I've heard just about every trick there is, and tried all of them I ever heard of. Some work but most don't.
This guys tricks are in the last category
