Tremolo set screw

[1960LesPaul]

Just received my first EBMM. JP12. Man what a neck. However in setting it up I have made a boo boo lol. I was trying to get the arm to not swing freely and applied too much pressure I suppose. Snapped the hex head off. Could have already been damaged when I got it. Can I order that screw? Also the little pin fell out and had a groove in it. I guessing that's why it wouldn't snug up? Lastly this thing is pulling sharp on the low E and G on dive bombs. I got a Sterling JP100D a little more than a month ago. It's why I wanted the real deal. I installed a Tusq XL nut and now the Sterling is pretty stable now. What is the material used for the nut on the JP12? Plastic? Has anyone replaced the nut? Thanks in advance.

 

[tbonesullivan]

Which hex screw were you tightening? The one on the side of the block near the bottom that holds the spring in place, or the one above it near the top?

 

[Etudica]

Yes, you can order the OEM grub screws from music man if you cannot source them locally (I forget the actual thread pitch at the moment). I'm not sure what "pin" you are referring to that you say fell out. Maybe it was the other piece of the broken grub screw? The only other parts in there are a bottom grub screw and retaining bar (see this post: jp trem arm bottom grub screw adjustment). I have a hard time believing a grub screw snapped since you are much more likely to strip the hex head before enough pressure is applied to snap it... unless there was a defect in the screw's metal.

As for the nut, I would not replace it on the EBMM model. I'm not sure about Sterlings, but the EBMM nut is compensated and designed specifically for each individual model. You could slightly widen/file the problematic nut slots and use some nut sauce if it's really bothersome. Sometimes it's so slight that you don't even need a file but just run a string through it and/or just play it hard for a while and it will wear whatever is binding in there. Of course, if you upped string gauges then yeah, you'll need to file a bit.

 

[1960LesPaul]

Good point on the nut. I have some Big Bends and some Tune-It. Thank you both for the responses. Here are some pics that might help. You can see the head broken off. I don't know what that slot is for. I was guessing that's where the pin fell out. You can see the notch I was talking about. Also what is the little hole underneath. Sorry for the newbie questions. A bit of a learning curve for me. I've lived in the Floyd Rose world too long lol

 

[Mace13]

For that compensated nut you can buy those from EBMM. I actually bought the nut for my JPXI (EBMM sells a 7 string nut and you have to cut it down to 6 strings, this is what they do) and had a local shop install it. The shop unfortunately did a hack job on the replacement. So, I ended up sending the guitar back to EBMM and paid service charge for them to do the work. It was then good as new and has been just fine ever since!

I have no idea about that trem set screw issue. I just know I have to periodically tighten that set screw on all 3 EBMM guitars I have. After a while the trems always swing freely. Maybe I’m too wimpy when I tighten it but I don’t want to overdo it!

 

[tbonesullivan]

Good point on the nut. I have some Big Bends and some Tune-It. Thank you both for the responses. Here are some pics that might help. You can see the head broken off. I don't know what that slot is for. I was guessing that's where the pin fell out. You can see the notch I was talking about. Also what is the little hole underneath. Sorry for the newbie questions. A bit of a learning curve for me. I've lived in the Floyd Rose world too long lol

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Ok... that is the "spring" that the tremolo arm "snaps" into. Tightening that will not do anything to help make the arm swing less, and now the spring that holds the end of the arm is gone, so it can pretty much fall out.

To adjust how the tremolo sits and feels, there is another grub screw further up on the block, which you can see by "diving" the tremolo. That is the screw you want to tighten to make the arm swing less freely. There is another grub screw on the bottom of the block which helps remove play at the bottom of the arm.

You will need to replace that allen bolt, and hopefully you can grab onto what is left of it, or else you'll need to have it drilled out.

 

[1960LesPaul]

I see. The spring thing makes sense now. I was looking for an actual spring lol.

 

[1960LesPaul]

For that compensated nut you can buy those from EBMM. I actually bought the nut for my JPXI (EBMM sells a 7 string nut and you have to cut it down to 6 strings, this is what they do) and had a local shop install it. The shop unfortunately did a hack job on the replacement. So, I ended up sending the guitar back to EBMM and paid service charge for them to do the work. It was then good as new and has been just fine ever since!

I have no idea about that trem set screw issue. I just know I have to periodically tighten that set screw on all 3 EBMM guitars I have. After a while the trems always swing freely. Maybe I’m too wimpy when I tighten it but I don’t want to overdo it!

So you were having tuning issues and Ernie ball replacing the nut solved it? If so that's what I want to do. I did do a bit of filing on the low E and it no longer pulls sharp. I filed the rest but still have a issue with a few. I've also noticed that when I just play with no trem use several strings go flat. Does anyone think the tuners could be part of the problem? I'm guessing they are getting older. I pull the string tight and lock it down. There is less than a half turn on all the strings.

 

[Etudica]

Like tbone said, that's the retaining bar which has no effect on swing tension, which is what I assumed you were referring to since the actual grub screws are incredibly small and seem impossible to break while inserted given the physics of everything (although you can strip the female hex quite easily if not careful). The retaining bar should never need adjusted once installed. The other small hole in the bottom of the block is for the grub screw that controls the depth of the trem arm when inserted. The upper grub screw on the back side of the block that is accessible by dive bombing is the primary adjustment for trem swing friction.

 

[1960LesPaul]

Like tbone said, that's the retaining bar which has no effect on swing tension, which is what I assumed you were referring to since the actual grub screws are incredibly small and seem impossible to break while inserted given the physics of everything (although you can strip the female hex quite easily if not careful). The retaining bar should never need adjusted once installed. The other small hole in the bottom of the block is for the grub screw that controls the depth of the trem arm when inserted. The upper grub screw on the back side of the block that is accessible by dive bombing is the primary adjustment for trem swing friction.

Thank you. I have a much better understanding of all the trem adjustments now. My biggest concern now is the tuning stability. It seems lots of people have been having issues and many others none at all. My Sterling JP100D is rock solid. I have put in a lot of time on it and installed a new Tusq XL nut. I need to get the JP12 to that level. I did do some filing on the nut and the low E string isn't pulling sharp anymore. A few other strings still are. I've even noticed that when not using the bar I see it go flat slightly and they should be stretched. They were installed pulled tightly and slightly less than have a turn to pitch. I'm wondering if I have multiple issues. Old nut and weakening tuners?

 

[Mace13]

So you were having tuning issues and Ernie ball replacing the nut solved it? If so that's what I want to do. I did do a bit of filing on the low E and it no longer pulls sharp. I filed the rest but still have a issue with a few. I've also noticed that when I just play with no trem use several strings go flat. Does anyone think the tuners could be part of the problem? I'm guessing they are getting older. I pull the string tight and lock it down. There is less than a half turn on all the strings.

No, The JPXI didn’t have tuning issues. It had some 1st fret string buzz on a couple strings. I don’t think it was a saddle height issue. It seemed like the strings just sat too low in the nut. I can’t comment on tuning issues on the EBMM guitars because I’ve never had any (knock on wood)

What do mean by “pulls sharp”?

I do put a teeny-tiny bit of ‘nut butter’ in the nut grooves and on the saddles about every other string change. It helps with tuning retention because the strings don’t ‘seize’ while tuning.

 

[1960LesPaul]

No, The JPXI didn’t have tuning issues. It had some 1st fret string buzz on a couple strings. I don’t think it was a saddle height issue. It seemed like the strings just sat too low in the nut. I can’t comment on tuning issues on the EBMM guitars because I’ve never had any (knock on wood)

What do mean by “pulls sharp”?

I do put a teeny-tiny bit of ‘nut butter’ in the nut grooves and on the saddles about every other string change. It helps with tuning retention because the strings don’t ‘seize’ while tuning.

Gotcha. On dive bombs the strings loosen. As I return to pitch the string is getting hung up at a contact point causing it to go sharp when the trem returns to zero. Most likely the nut since I did a bit of filing on the low E and it seems to have fixed that particular string

 

[1960LesPaul]

Well Ernie Ball isn't doing non warranty repairs so I'm on my own. I've got an email in to Graph-tech to see if they offer something similar regarding the nut. I know it has a compensated nut but none of my other guitars have one and I just may have go without. As it stands now it's unusable and my Sterling is far superior in tuning stability and that is unacceptable for a 2k guitar. Is there any chance the tuners could be part of the problem? I've noticed on occasion the B and High E will go flat with no trem use? Those two are more likely to fail first but on occasion the G will go flat.

 

[tbonesullivan]

What year is the guitar, what gauge strings are you using, and has it been professionally set up? You also should definitely be able to get a replacement compensated nut from EBMM, even if they don't install it. But until you've had a professional look at those nut slots, replacing the nut shouldn't even be considered.

 

[1960LesPaul]

Update. Spoke with EB again and they recommend replacing the block so that's what I'm going to do. They couldn't believe I broke the head off either. Oh well. Typical day for me.

 

[tbonesullivan]

Update. Spoke with EB again and they recommend replacing the block so that's what I'm going to do. They couldn't believe I broke the head off either. Oh well. Typical day for me.

Were you not able to get the screw out? It looks like there is still a good amount above the surface, so some small vise grips should be able to remove it.

 

[1960LesPaul]

What year is the guitar, what gauge strings are you using, and has it been professionally set up? You also should definitely be able to get a replacement compensated nut from EBMM, even if they don't install it. But until you've had a professional look at those nut slots, replacing the nut shouldn't even be considered.

Not sure of the year. I'm using 9s. I know this is a different animal but I have set up 100s of Floyds but admittedly I'm unfamiliar with with a sticking nut. My go to has been replace with a Graph-Tech which has worked every single time. Maybe I can drop it off at RS Guitarwerks in Winchester Ky. Amazing shop. They repaired my LP headstock and looks fantastic.

 

[1960LesPaul]

Were you not able to get the screw out? It looks like there is still a good amount above the surface, so some small vise grips should be able to remove it.

Maybe. The space I have to grab it is small. If I take the trem block out maybe I cant get at it better.

 

[1960LesPaul]

Success!!! EB told me the steps to remove the trem. Came out easy! I had just enough to grab to start turning. Now I just order a new nut and spring. Maybe I should buy a new nut since I've already got to order parts.

 

[1960LesPaul]

As if the hits don't keep coming lol. All self inflicted. When pulling out the piezo module I tried to be very careful but my attempts were futile. The orange wire snapped off. I found a Reverb pic showing the module with about a 1/8th inch of color wires still attached. I soldered to the post. Didn't work. noticed one of the black wires also came undone. Soldered that back on. Still doesn't work. However I just top mounted the wires. I suppose I really need to clean the old Solder out and rewire putting tips down in the hole. Does anyone know if the color codes stayed the same on the module. Or would a better option be to order a new module if they aren't too expensive and already pre wired. I think I have seen that I would need to return that module if I wanted a new one. I'm ok with if it comes pre wired and all I have to do is solder he wires together. By the way I have anew nut, 2 new posts, the grub screw and the retaining pin / spring on the way. I sure do wish I could send it back to EB to go through it.